Failed vehical insp front right end too much play in the wheel 1/2 inch if that he says its either ball joint or tie rod how do i know wich one thanks

if this has a conventional front end(not front wheel drive) then there will be one on each outer tie rod end one on each inner tie rod end, both upper and lower ball joints on each side, idler arm and pitman arm. if its front wheel drive it will have a rack and pinion steering. there for there will be one on each outer tie rod end and one on each lower ball joint, if they have grease fittings. so conventional steering has 10 fittings total and rack and pinion has 4 total.

Could be a bad tire ( or bent rim Have balance checked), ball joint, idler arm, wheel bearing, steering tie rod end or defective rack and pinion unit. Lift vehicle about 1 inch off ground ( do each side independently) Use a pry bar and pry from ground up and down on wheel. Much play? bad ball joint. With both hands, try to move wheel side to side. Much play? could be a tie rod end or bad wheel bearing. Visually check play of steering arm into rack and pinion unit, more than about a half inch play, bad rack and pinion unit. Try to move back and forth with hands top and bottom. Much play? Bad ball joint or wheel bearing, verify visually that it is ball joint moving, else it is the wheel bearing. Manually check for play in each joint in steering control rods from steering knuckle all the way through each rod where there is a joint. Replace the one you find excessive play in. Check mounting studs for sway bar for loose fit, deteriorated rubber bushings or a crack / break in the sway bar. Replace if needed. That's about all I can think of unless it only happens when applying brakes, in which case it could be a warped rotor.

Could be your tie rods coming out of the rack and pinion and attached to the wheels. Grasp the tie rod near where it attaches to the wheel and see if you can shake, twist or move it. If you feel any play or looseness at all in the tie rod joint, then it is worn badly. Both outer tie rods at each wheel should be replaced. If the outer tie rods are tight, you can't move them with your hands, then have a shop check your inner tie rods for wear. Have them check the ball joints for wear, also. Or you can raise the wheel off the ground. Be safety conscious. Grab the tire at top and bottom. Can the tire move in and out, feel play in the lower ball joints? Any side to side play in the wheel? Maybe you can spot the looseness at the tie rod or balljoint. Maybe you'd better let a shop look at it.
A CV joint wouldn't have those symptoms. A wheel bearing possibly, but usually accompanied by a grinding noise. Have it checked out.

There are several components that could cause noise from the front when turning. The components to be concerned about are, Wheel bearings, Ball Joints, Tie rod Ends, CV joints and brake rotors.

Wheel Barrings:

Jack the car up under the control arm until the wheel is off the ground about 3 inches. Slide a pry bar under the tire and place the other hand on the top of the tire. As you lift and lower the pry bar fell for loose movement in the tire. If there is such movement you have a bad wheel bearing.

On your vehicle this is a sealed Hub.

Ball Joint:

Repeat the test above and watch the upper and lower ball joints for movement. Is there is movement replace the bad ball joint.

Tie Rod ends:

You have changed the inner and outer tie rod ends so you are probably covered there.

CV joint:

The Joint is housed in a rubber boot. If you can feel the joint inside the boot you can turn the tire forward and back and feel for play in the joint. If you are not able to feel the play you can loosen the clamp on the boot and push the boot out of the way. Then repeat the test.

Brake Rotors.

You have already changed the rotors so this is not likely the issue.

There are several components that could cause noise from the front when turning. I am assuming when you say the Front nearside you are saying the fromt left wheel is where the knocking is comming from when making a left turn. The components to be concerned about are, Wheel bearings, Ball Jionts, Tie rod Ends, CV joints and brake rotors.
Wheel Barrings:
Jack the car up under the control arm until the wheel is off the ground about 3 inches. Slide a pry bar ybder the tire and place the other hand on the top of the tire. As you lift and lowere the pry bar fell for loose movement in the tire. If there is such movement you have a bad wheel bearing.
Ball Joint:
Repeat the test above and watch the upper and lower ball joints for movement. Is there is movement replace the bad ball joint.
Tie Rod ends:
With the tire still off the ground grip the tire in the front and back and rey to move it as if your were trying to turn the tire. Watch the tie rod ends for loose movement. If they are loose replace them.
CV joint:
The Joint is housed in a rubber boot. If you can feel the joint inside the boot you can turn the tire forward and back and feel for play in the joint. If you are not able to feel the play you can loosen the clamp on the boot and push the boot out of the way. Then repeat the test.
Brake Rotors. Inspect the brakes for wear and any signs of pitting or grooves in the rotors.
You need to take this seriously because if you have a Ball joint or tie rod end break while driving, it will cause a wreck.

May be dry ball joint or tie rod end.

there is a numer of things tha cause this bad ball joints tie rod ends for loose wheel bearings try this get the front end of the truck off the ground take a long bar pipe and place it under the tire if the tire move up and down replace the ball joints or my way take a big pair so channel locks and try move the ball joints up and down also try this on your tie rod ends. to check for loose wheel bearing try moving the tire side to side if you can fill play replace the wheel bearings and seal.

It could be several things.

1. Strut is worn and the rod is rattling.
2. The ball joint or control arm are worn. A new control arm comes with the ball joint and a new bushing.
3. The inner and/or tie rod end is worn, allowing the wheel to rattle.

Raise the car and support it. Twist the wheel back and forth while observing the tie rod. Look for play in the inner and outer connections. If this is ok, place a pry bar under the tire and lift up while observing the ball joint and control arm. You should not see any play. Look at the strut. Look for oil on the housing. Look for play in the rod or a loose connection.

YOU NEED TO CHECK TIE ROD END S AND WHEEL BEARING OR BALL JOINTS AND CONTROLL ARM BUSHING HOPE THIS HELPS LIFT TRUCK GRAB WHEEL AND LIGHTLY MOVE SIDE TO SIDE SEE IF YOU HAVE PLAY IN TIE RODS GRAB WHEEL TOP TO BOTTUM AND SEE IF WHEEL BEARING HAS PLAY OR SPIN THE WHEEL TO SEE IF YOU CAN HEAR GROONING NOISE FROM BEARING DOING THIS THINGS YOU MAY BE ABLE TO TELL IF ITS BALL JOINT TOO

You need to determine if the wheel bearing is loose. You will need to inspect the ball joints. A sign the ball joints are toast is inside or ouside tire wear. Inspect the brake caliper for loosness.. You will need to inspect the draglink coming from the steering box . Have someone turn the steering wheel just enough to barley move the tire. Move back and forth while your inspecting all ball joints. These trucks are know to destroy the steering linkage joints. Excessive roll on the rods while turning the wheel will be an indicator.