Question about 1989 Volkswagen Cabriolet

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I'm about to purchase a 1989 VW Cabriolet. During a test drive while going up a small hill, the clutch slipped. It didn't seem to happen the rest of the drive. I'm not sure exactly what it is called but the linkage or adjustment is extended out all the way so that the clutch engages/disengages within the first inch or so of depressing the pedal which was done, as I'm sure you know, to compensate for the slippage. My question is, what parts in the clutch assembly need to be replaced? Would one of those clutch kits replace the correct parts or would more or different parts need to be replaced? I'm getting mixed answers wherever I've gone.

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If the clutch is actually worn, you'll need to pull the transmission and change the clutch disc, pressure plate, and throwout bearing. They don't normally all need to be changed, but the kits usually contain all the parts, and you won't want to pull the transmission to replace the part you didn't swap while you were in there already. (or pay someone else to, for that matter...)

On a 1989, the clutch linkage is cable operated, not hydraulic. Check first to see how much you can lift up the arm that the cable attaches to. You should only be able to lift it approx 1/2" or so away from the cable by applying only one fingers' worth of pressure from underneath the bar. If you can move it any further than that, adjust the cable so that you cannot, and drive again.

However, if the pedal feel is "at the top", as you say, it's probably adjusted properly as is, and the clutch will truly need to be replaced.

Also check to see that there is no oil seeping from between the block and transmission... if there is, the engine is leaking from either the oil pan seal, or rear main seal, or the transmission is leaking from the input bearing seal. Any of those will cause a clutch to slip, should the oil contaminate the clutch face.

A new clutch shouldn't cost more than $150, and having a shop install it shouldn't cost more than about 4 hours labor, plus any applicable fees. You should also change the fluid in the transmission and all fluids in the car while you're in there.

Posted on Jul 22, 2010

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Clutch kit that contains : pressure plate , clutch disc and release bearing will do just fine.Basicly that's all there is.
Sometimes kit has an alignment tool , which is better yet.
You might need to resurface flywheel , but it's only in case if the flywheel really groved up.
I usually use air sender with coarse disc to clean it up a little , works fine.

Posted on Jul 22, 2010

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Mahindra 6500 will not take off hardly in high gear. In low gear it works fine until going up a steep hill. Smells a little like burning plastic when this happens. Is ther an adjustment.


From your description it would seem the clutch friction material is worn out and needs replacing, though it is possible the clutch spring (diaphragm) has become weak.

There might be an adjustment but I have no knowledge of that model. Mechanically (cable) operated clutches mostly have an adjustment to maintain a small amount of clearance (free play) in the pedal operation and also a very few of the older hydraulically operated systems but mostly these are self-adjusting.

A healthy clutch is designed to transmit the full engine torque with a good margin extra, though it must be remembered even a healthy clutch when it is overheated can begin to slip. As a clutch wears and becomes less efficient it is important to be considerate to it and keep it cool by driving in a manner that is less stressful for it and by not allowing it to slip.

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NO POWER / SHUDDER


Is it a standard or automatic transmission? If standard, your clutch may be slipping. While driving down a straight road, push the brake while still in gear and push the gas pedal as well. If the engine slows with the vehicle, the clutch isn't slipping. If the engine speeds up while the vehicle is slowing down, the clutch is slipping.
If it is an automatic, check the transmission fluid. You may be low and the transmission is slipping while under load, or the torque converter is slipping for the same reason. You may have a bad torque converter clutch switch, but the computer should have picked that up and made your "Check Engine" light come on.
These are the main reasons you would be losing power going up hills unless your engine isn't powerful enough to handle the larger tires on extreme hills. (It takes more power to turn a larger wheel going up hill since the vehile has to travel further for each revolution of a larger tire. Incidentally, have your speedometer checked. You will be going faster than what the speedo says since you put larger tires on.) Good Luck.

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sounds like one of two things first is to check condition of all drive belts if they are all good dont let the miles fool you if the car has been driven a bit harder or had alot of uphill driving these reduce clutch wear enormously

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