Question about 1989 Volkswagen Cabriolet
If the clutch is actually worn, you'll need to pull the transmission and change the clutch disc, pressure plate, and throwout bearing. They don't normally all need to be changed, but the kits usually contain all the parts, and you won't want to pull the transmission to replace the part you didn't swap while you were in there already. (or pay someone else to, for that matter...)
On a 1989, the clutch linkage is cable operated, not hydraulic. Check first to see how much you can lift up the arm that the cable attaches to. You should only be able to lift it approx 1/2" or so away from the cable by applying only one fingers' worth of pressure from underneath the bar. If you can move it any further than that, adjust the cable so that you cannot, and drive again.
However, if the pedal feel is "at the top", as you say, it's probably adjusted properly as is, and the clutch will truly need to be replaced.
Also check to see that there is no oil seeping from between the block and transmission... if there is, the engine is leaking from either the oil pan seal, or rear main seal, or the transmission is leaking from the input bearing seal. Any of those will cause a clutch to slip, should the oil contaminate the clutch face.
A new clutch shouldn't cost more than $150, and having a shop install it shouldn't cost more than about 4 hours labor, plus any applicable fees. You should also change the fluid in the transmission and all fluids in the car while you're in there.
Posted on Jul 22, 2010
Clutch kit that contains : pressure plate , clutch disc and release bearing will do just fine.Basicly that's all there is.
Sometimes kit has an alignment tool , which is better yet.
You might need to resurface flywheel , but it's only in case if the flywheel really groved up.
I usually use air sender with coarse disc to clean it up a little , works fine.
Posted on Jul 22, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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