Question about 1994 Ford F250 Supercab

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What would be casing a 1994 diesel to loose brake petal while the vacuum pump is hooked up i have replaced all of the brake a ponets such as master cylinder and brake buster brakes rooters

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  • Ford Master
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If your model has a Vacuum Reserve cannister, its probably rusted out on the bottom. This part use to look like a Coffee can and has a Vacuum line to it. (Plastic would have been a better material.)

If that is not the problem, you can hook up a manual Vacuum Gauge tester to the line that hooks up to the pump on the engine. The line should hold Vacuum. If it does not, start backtracking all of the hose connections. Eventually you will find a line that does not hold Vacuum. It could even go to a Power brake booster.

I had bought a used Diesel truck and the guy paid big money for a new engine-driven Vacuum pump. I kept dropping my Cruise Control up hills. I used a Vacuum tester and found my Vacuum Reserve cannister was rusted. The seller paid $300+ for a part not needed.

Posted on Jul 22, 2010

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1 Answer

Had brakes when parked, replaced front rotors, pads, turned rotors, replaced brake lines no rear brakes replaced hubs,shoes wheel cyc, lines master cylinder, booster and bleed.bypassed abs system. could...


Sounds like you have an air lock in your distribution block or it could be a bad distribution block all together. Sometimes you can tap it lightly and the air lock will bleed out. Also check your vacuum booster. If it is real hard to press the brake petal down, with the motor running, the vacuum booster diaphragm is blown, or there is a vacuum leak in the line to the booster. Pull the vacuum line off the booster with the engine running to see if there is vacuum to the booster, this will likely make the engine stall out if the booster is working properly. A little trick I do when bleeding my brakes is take about 16 inches of clear tubing that fits the bleeder, then get a quart Mason jar stick the tubing that is attached to the bleeder into the jar, then add about and inch of brake fluid to the jar and start pumping the petal. Always keep an eye on the jar and your master cylinder as to not let the master cylinder run out, or the jar to overflow. Hope this helps, good luck. If I think of something else I'll do another post.

Jun 10, 2014 | 2000 Ford Expedition

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Pedal fades when diesel engine is started, replaced everything on this truck. even steel braded lines. master cylinder 3 times, and no, i don't have a leak, i have looked everywhere for one, when engine is...


Does it have a vacuum or hydraulic brake booster?
If it is vacuum, is the vacuum pump operating properly?

I ran into a similar problem on a 1994 F250.
I ended up having to replace the master cylinder with a larger bore (moves more fluid) version.

Apr 12, 2011 | Ford E-350 Super Duty Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

Busted wheel cyl on rear wheel lost fluid now no pressure back there what do i look for


if it is the wheel cylinder that is leaking then it will have to be replaced and all the components cleaned with brake cleaner.depending how badly soaked the brake shoes are you may have to replace them also.you may have to heat the brake line that connects to the wheel cylinder,or even replace the line if it gets damaged.the bleed all the air out of the system,

Mar 17, 2011 | 1997 Dodge Stratus

2 Answers

I have a hard brake peddel almoust have to stand on them what could this be


You no longer have vacuum assistence. The brake master cylinder is mounted on the brake booster which uses vacuum generated by the engine to "help" you push the brake pedal. On diesel engines there is normally a vacuum pump on the rear of the alternator which generates this vacuum. On petrol engines the vacuum is generated by the engine itself. Follow the pipe from the booster to the inlet manifold or alternator(diesel) and check for leaks along the whole length and at the joints. Replace the pipe if leaking. If no leaks are found the booster needs replacing. If you have a diesel engine, check the operation of the vacuum pump first before replacing the booster. Make sure the alternator is turning(belt in place) at idle. Disconnect the pipe at the rear of the alternator and hold a piece of paper over the pump opening to check operation. Do not use your hand as this will result in injury even with the engine at idle. Replacing the booster will see you upside down under the dashboard swearing, pleading and begging because that's where the bolts are that hold the booster in place. The master cylinder needs to be removed from the booster before the booster can be pulled from the engine bay.

Oct 20, 2010 | 1991 Chrysler Town & Country

1 Answer

I have a 94 ford 350 460 engine gas. i replaced the brakes and everything but my brake petal still goes to the floor i hear a "swooshing" sound by the master cylinder when i push on the petal. Im...


I sounds like you have air in the system I would start by bleeding the entire system,when did the wooshing sound start before or after you replaced the brakes,and witch brakes did you replace(front,rear or all)

Sep 01, 2010 | 1994 Ford F350 Crew Cab

5 Answers

Brake pedal is hard but brakes not very effective. booster holds vacuum. replaced booster check valve, no change. dash brake light stays on most of time but sometimes goes out for a while then comes back...


Check the brake fluid first.is it low or no brake fluid at all.is the brake fluid got dried up or leaked out. Sounds like the power brake booster is bad, that is what the master cylinder is bolted too. There is a rubber hose that has a plastic valve in it were it snaps into the booster, Pull that rubber hose out of the booster and off of the engine, Now the end that you took off the engine. You should be able to **** through the line, but not be able to blow through it. If you can then replace the valve, It is a one way valve.
If that is all right then hook hose back up to the engine and start engine, You should hear a major vacuum leak at the valve end, put you finger over the valve and it should stop making noise and engine should smooth out. If it don't the rubber hose must be leaking or the tube on the engine were the hose hooks to is stoped up.
Also check the master cylinder if power booster is replaced. If the brake light is coming and going check the brake light switch. check fig for the internal assembly parts:-- bdea807.gif

To check engine vacuum, connect a vacuum gauge to the supply hose that runs from the intake manifold to the booster. A low reading (below 16 inches) may indicate a hose leak or obstruction, a blockage in the exhaust system (plugged catalytic converter, crushed pipe, bad muffler, etc.), or a problem in the engine itself (manifold vacuum leak, bad valve, head gasket, etc.).
The condition of the diaphragm inside the booster is also important. If cracked, ruptured or leaking, it won't hold vacuum and can't provide much power assist. Leaks in the master cylinder can allow brake fluid to be siphoned into the booster, accelerating the demise of the diaphragm. So if there's brake fluid inside the vacuum hose, it's a good indication the master cylinder is leaking and needs to be rebuilt or replaced. Wetness around the back of the master cylinder would be another clue to this kind of problem.
To check the vacuum booster, pump the brake pedal with the engine off until you've bled off all the vacuum from the unit. Then hold the pedal down and start the engine. You should feel the pedal depress slightly as engine vacuum enters the booster and pulls on the diaphragm. No change? Then check the vacuum hose connection and engine vacuum. If okay, the problem is in the booster and the booster needs to be replaced.
Vacuum boosters also have an external one-way check valve at the hose inlet that closes when the engine is either shut off or stalls. This traps vacuum inside the booster so it can still provide one or two power assisted stops until the engine is restarted. The valve also helps maintain vacuum when intake vacuum is low (when the engine is under load or is running at wide open throttle). You can check the valve by removing it and trying to blow through it from both sides. It should pass air from the rear but not from the front.
Replacing a vacuum booster is a fairly straight forward job. All you have to do is disconnect it from the brake pedal on the inside and unbolt the master cylinder. The pushrod that runs from the booster into the back of the master cylinder must have the specified amount of play.
You will typically find the power brake booster mounted on the firewall attached to the master cylinder. The master cylinder is connected to the brake pedal.
Thanks. keep updated for any more query.you can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

Jul 15, 2010 | 1997 Ford F250 SuperCab

3 Answers

No brakes push pedal to floor


leaky rear break cylinder or master cylinder

Oct 02, 2009 | 2001 Chevrolet Blazer

2 Answers

I think I need to replace my brake booster.


Did you bench bleed the master before you installed it???? Engine off, have someone push the brake petal down and hold it down while you crack the brake line loose at the master,then tighten it and let up on the petal.Do this several times for each of the 2 lines at the master, only cracking it when the petal is being held all the way down.Repeat...Do them separately.Have some rags below the master to mop up the mess and keep the master from running out of fluid. Then do the gravity bleed one more time on each wheel cyl. and watch for a bubble of 2.
I hope this helps you.
Yes the booster sounds fine.

Sep 22, 2009 | Chevrolet El Camino Cars & Trucks

4 Answers

1997 Ford F-350 7.3 L Diesel..........brake failure


With no leaks and a little braking action returning by pumping the pedal I would suggest looking into a master cylinder. Low brake fluid level in the master cylinder will cause the brake warning light to illuminate (possibly, also the ABS light).

If the truck has the 7.3L diesel, it will have a vacuum pump which supplies vacuum for all vacuum accessories. I believe if the vacuum level drops below 10 in. of Hg, the brake light will illuminate. If the vacuum pump fails you'll know it as the brake pedal will require quite a bit of effort to effect any braking effort.

Nov 19, 2008 | 1997 Ford F350 Crew Cab

3 Answers

Brakes


Most likely your vacumn power brake booster has failed. It is not rebuildable. You will need to buy a new one.

Jun 11, 2008 | 1994 Chevrolet Corvette

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