Question about 2007 GMC Yukon Denali

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My lock on my 2006 gmc yukon liftgate wont unlock with the remote key thing. i took the panel off and can do it by hand

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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dgjtex
  • 405 Answers

SOURCE: 2006 chevy tahoe liftgate won't open when keyless remote unlocks

check fuse first always, then check connections fron rear gate to body.

Posted on Dec 15, 2008

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  • 12 Answers

SOURCE: 2006 gmc yukon back door/hatch won't unlock

Check battery voltage. if above 13.7 volts move to rear lock actuator and measure battery voltage at actuator if above 13.6
replace actuator if below specs. check grounds and alternator out put as follows, alternator output 13.7 to 14.25 volts. key off battery volts should be 12.90 + - 3/10 of a volt and about the same voltage at the actuator. let me know. kindest regards Bill

Posted on Jan 30, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 2005 gmc yukon back passenger doors will not

My wife's 2003 Yukon wouldn't lock the rear doors or hatch, but it would unlock. My problem was the lock relay was bad. There are two relays, one for lock and one for unlock. They are located in the fuse panel on the left side of the console. Open the drivers door and you will see a cover that pops off. Behind this are several fuses and relays. Consult your manual to see which is the lock and unlock relays. They are side by side on a 2003. They pull straight out. I replaced both and they were around $10 apiece at any auto store.

Posted on Aug 01, 2009

kingcaesar1
  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: lift gate wont open with remote

I spend the next 10 minutes alternating between randomly hitting the FOB’s lock and unlock buttons, until I give up in a garage-filling string of expletives as I realize my kayak and I are SOL. Luckily, I did have a friend and an incredibly helpful REI employee there, whom all pitched in and managed to jam the kayak into the Suburban through the side door. I love my Suburban for reasons like this, though I’m slowly starting to hate GMC. More on this to come.
chevy-suburban-2005.jpg Here’s the Suburban with kayak inside and the lift gate panel on the floor. If you have a Suburban / Tahoe / Yukon in the same situation where your lift gate won’t open, the only way to get it open is to pry the lift gate panel just enough to access the locking mechanism. Take a long flat head screwdriver, slip it into the top section of the panel and start pulling away. The panel is made of a flexible plastic that will bend a fair amount, so don’t be afraid to put a bit of elbow into it. Once you see the locking mechanism, you’ll want to grip the back side that moves and twist counter-clockwise until the door pops open. Once you’ve done this, call GM customer service and tell them that their engineers should be fired for not having a manual release. If there is an accident / fire up front, wouldn’t you like it if your kids could escape out the back? Yeah, me too.
suburban-tailgate-panel.jpg If you’re lucky enough that you can open your door (or maybe it doesn’t lock to begin with), then it’s a little easier to pull off the panel. First, take a socket wrench (9mm, I think) and remove the bolt under the leather handle on the inside of the door (the one you pull down on when your lift gate is up). After that, insert a flat head into the space between the panel and the door and pry open. There will be around 4 or 5 contact points to disconnect.
remove-tailgate-panel.jpg The two last things that stand in your way are plastic hinges that hold the panel to the door frame. With the lift gate open, push the panel toward the car, then spin it an entire half-circle around the hinge in the picture. After that, the panel should pull right out. Now the locking mechanism should be nicely exposed.
suburban-tailgate-unlock.jpg Here we see the lift gate handle at the bottom, which is connected by a tension wire to the locking mechanism. Pulling on the handle causes the wire at the top to retract toward the right, turning the locking mechanism counter-clockwise.
tailgate-lock-explained.jpg However, pulling the handle does nothing when the mechanism is in the locked position, because it doesn’t engage the other tension wire / tailgate release - it just simply moves by itself. When the mechanism is unlocked, pulling on the handle will engage the release mechanism and pop open the door… when the locking mechanism is working, that is.
engaged-door-lock.jpg Here is a properly unlocked door: notice that the black plastic piece (on top of the copper) is slid all the way to the right. You can see that if you rotate the lower copper piece, that it will force the black plastic piece to turn, thus engaging the door release.
tailgate-wont-unlock.jpg Here is why your Suburban tailgate won’t unlock. I’ve just pressed the unlock button on my key FOB and you can see that the black plastic piece has NOT slid over to the right. This means that the door is still LOCKED as far as the mechanism is concerned. No amount of yanking on the handle will open the lift gate at this point.
locking-mechanism-stuck.jpg Zooming in for a close-up, you can really see where the problem is. Gear heads will realize this is a major problem for all sorts of reasons. First, if your door lock actuator is banging against this metal part every time you unlock your door, it will wear out the part extremely fast and you’ve got yourself a busted door. Second, even if you replace your actuator, you’ll just bust it again if it keeps ramming this part. Most importantly, the question is how this is happening to begin with? My Suburban was working fine until I put in a factory replacement handle.
My opinion is that the factory GM replacement was defective and not built to spec, because the tensioner was now pulling a few millimeters more than it should have, which resulted in my lift gate not closing or unlocking. While millimeters might not mean anything to some cheap factory in China or Mexico, it means a whole lot of difference to the Joe Schmoe who wants to have a car that works. It may also be due to a small and very important spring that resets the lock back into place.
suburban-door-lock-actuator.jpg I’ve read a whole ton of reports about Suburban lift gates, along with Tahoes, Yukons and other GM cars failing and drivers stuck with unlockable doors. I believe this type of careless “few millimeters off isn’t important” BS is likely to blame. That’s why some people may have locks that work only half the time, or some work after their actuators are replaced, but fail soon afterward. My two-cent opinion - back to fixing cars.
relieve-handle-tension.jpg So what we need to do, is make some space for that locking (technically, “unlock”) mechanism to engage fully. On my Suburban, this meant giving the metal tensioner just a little more slack - 2mm would be all I need.
removing-handle-wire.jpg First, I pushed the handle wire mechanism over to the right and then pulled out the metal ball and wire. After that, I pinched the blue wire cap and pushed it out of the metal holder.
unlocked-tailgate.jpg You can now see that there is a lot of visible space between the locking mechanism and the metal. Pressing lock and unlock on my key FOB easily moved the unit back and forth successfully, so I knew it wasn’t a problem with the actuator. Now comes the disclaimer part.
bend-lock-mechanism.jpg DISCLAIMER: Attempt this section at your own risk, you are responsible for your own actions!!! Not seeing a lot of options, I decided I would take a somewhat drastic approach and bend the wire holder closer to the locking mechanism with a pair of pliers. I only needed about 2mm, so I felt this was acceptable without busting the car too much. Needless to say, this is not a graceful fix nor one I really wanted to do, but there appeared to be little other options other than cutting your own tensioner line (adjusting the line would be the most logical method, but I pinching and pulling got me no results) or finding some concrete way of bracing the line closer to the locking mechanism. If you come up with an elegant solution, please let me know.
fixed-tailgate-lock.jpg Phew, finally - the fixed tailgate lock! You can see there is just enough room for the mechanism to engage and that the handle tension wire is snugly seated into its new home. I tested the lock about 100 times to be sure that everything was working as it should and I advise you do the same once you get to this point.
Now, simply put the panel back on the same way you took it off (don’t forget to screw the bolt back into the handle) and you’re done. Have a beer and go pat yourself on the back.
If this blog post has helped at all, I’d appreciate if you left a comment to share you experiences so others in the same situation can hear what you did. Thanks.

Posted on Nov 03, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: rear doors and tailgate will not lock with remote

Harris, did you find a solution to your problem? I am having the same issue on my 04 denali. Rear doors and tailgate wont lock but the unlock fine. Front door function normally? let me know.

Posted on Nov 18, 2009

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1 Answer

I have a 2005 GMC Yukon that the rear hatch does not lock. Wouldn't be a problem but no manual key hole to lock it. Must be some kind of lock sensor. Is on the driver door panel or by the hatch?


The rear hatch locking is computer contolled .
The BCM also runs diagnostics on the liftgate lock relay control circuit and will set DTC B3825 as current and also send a Class 2 message to the DIC. The DIC will display REPLACE LIFTGATE FUSE to inform the driver that a fault has been detected in the liftgate lock circuit and that the liftgate is not locked. Faults that will set the DTC and cause the DIC to display the message could be any of the following:
• An open ECC fuse
• An open or short to ground in the liftgate lock relay battery positive voltage circuit
• A faulty liftgate lock relay
• An open or short to ground in the liftgate lock relay control circuit
• A short to ground in the liftgate lock actuator lock control circuit
• A faulty BCM

The liftgate lock relay supply and coil sides receive a constant voltage through the battery voltage supply circuit and the ECC fuse. The normally closed contact is connected to ground and the control side is connected to the body control module (BCM). A lock function will occur when a door lock switch activation, keyless entry lock transmission, auto door lock function or a liftgate lock function has been received by the BCM. The BCM will then ground the control side of the liftgate lock relay. This energizes the relay and allows voltage to be applied to the liftgate lock actuator lock control circuit. Since the other side of the liftgate lock actuator is connected to the normally closed contacts of the door unlock relay to ground, the liftgate will lock. When an unlock function occurs the BCM will ground the control side of the unlock relay and the rear doors and liftgate will unlock.
The power door lock system consists of the following components:
• The driver door module (DDM)
• The passenger door module (PDM)
• The body control module (BCM)
• The driver information center (DIC)
• The rear door lock switch
• The door lock relay
• The door unlock relay
• The liftgate lock relay--utility vehicles with liftgate only
• The reversible door lock actuators in each of the doors and liftgate
• LOCKS 20A fuse (rear lock/unlock relay supply voltage)
• ECC 10A fuse (liftgate lock relay supply voltage)

If i were to guess i would say you mite need a new lock actuator , but i don't guess . You could take the hatch inside panel off an check for B+ voltage for the lock actuation as someone pushes the switch . Or have it checked for codes .

Dec 21, 2016 | GMC Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Envoy hatch lock


There is a known TSB for this....
#07-08-52-003: Rear Liftgate Glass May Not Lock When Using Remote Keyless Entry (RKE)/Key Fob Transmitter/Door Lock Switch, Lifgtate Hatch or Liftgate Glass May Lock/Unlock When Rear Liftgate Glass Button Depressed - (Sep 13, 2007)


Subject: Rear Liftgate Glass May Not Lock When Using Remote Keyless Entry (RKE), Key Fob Transmitter or Door Lock Switch, And/Or Liftgate Hatch Or Liftgate Glass May Lock Then Unlock When Rear Liftgate Glass Button is Depressed (Reposition Lock Cylinder Wave Washer and Adjust Lock Rod)


Models: 2005-2007 Buick Rainier

2005-2008 Chevrolet TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer EXT, TrailBlazer SS

2005-2008 GMC Envoy, Envoy XL, Envoy Denali

2005-2008 Saab 9-7X




--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Do This
Don't Do This

Reposition liftgate lock cylinder wave washer and adjust lock rod.
DO NOT replace the liftgate latch or actuator.


Condition
Some customers may comment on one or more of the following conditions:

• The rear liftgate glass may not lock when using the remote keyless entry (RKE), key fob transmitter or door lock switch unless the lock is pressed a second time.

• The rear liftgate or glass locks, but may be unlocked when the rear liftgate lock cylinder button is depressed.

• The rear liftgate locks but the liftgate glass may not lock.

Cause
These conditions may be caused by one or all of the following:

• The rear liftgate cylinder lock rod may be out of adjustment.





• The wave washer on the liftgate lock cylinder may be out of position with the cup side down.

• Excessive movement or slack in the lock rods at the liftgate bell crank assembly.





• The liftgate lock cylinder pawl may contact the rear liftgate glass latch when the lock cylinder button is depressed.

Correction
Important: Do Not remove the rear liftgate lock cylinder from the vehicle to perform this repair.

Reposition the rear liftgate lock cylinder wave washer and adjust the lock rod using the steps below.

Verify the customer's condition.

Open the liftgate.

Remove the upper liftgate garnish molding.

Remove the rear liftgate trim panel.

Remove the cylinder lock rod from the threaded lock rod retaining clip.

Tip
Place the tip of a screwdriver blade into the opening of the C-clip and slowly rotate the screwdriver to pry out the C-clip from the shaft. Then use needle-nose pliers to remove the C-clip.

Remove the C-clip from the rear liftgate lock cylinder push button and remove the wave washer.

Install the wave washer with the cup side up.

Position the wave washer with the curved edges of the wave spring parallel to the tabs on the lock cylinder shaft.

Important: Use needle-nose pliers to slightly squeeze the C-clip back into shape. Make sure the clip seated, you should feel a snap and hear an audible click.

Install the C-clip onto the shaft and in the slot using needle nose pliers. Then rotate the pawl several times to make sure the C-clip does not rotate. If the clip rotates then the clip is not fully seated.

Position the lock cylinder pawl to the full clockwise position.

Pull up on the cylinder lock rod to remove any slack in the bell crank.

Install the cylinder lock rod into the threaded lock rod retaining clip while removing any slack from the lock rod linkage.

Close the lock rod retainer clip.

Close the liftgate assembly.

Open the liftgate glass while keeping the liftgate closed.

Use the key fob to cycle the liftgate to the lock and unlock position while inspecting the rear liftgate pawl. The lock cylinder pawl should have clearance between the latch as shown above. If the pawl is contacting the latch, readjust the cylinder lock rod.

Verify that the customer's condition has been corrected.

Install the rear liftgate trim panel.

Install the upper liftgate garnish molding.

Apr 14, 2014 | GMC Envoy XL Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

My GMC Denali Yukon XL rear hatch will not open. I tried the inside lock and the remote lock too. What else can I do to open it?


What year is it?
It may have an issue with the liftgate actuator... probably inoperative from what you\'re saying. You can open the liftgate manually, but it typically involves crawling into the rear cargo area with a handful of tools, pulling the rear trim panel off the liftgate from the inside, and then releasing the latch to open the liftgate, and then diagnosing the problem. It\'s a pain.

Aug 22, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

The liftgate will not unlock... using the unlock


you'll have to remove the panel from the inside. there must be screws to unscew and/or clamps holding it down. then you can access the latch and open it manually

Jul 05, 2010 | 2006 GMC Yukon Denali

1 Answer

2007 gmc yukon denali wont unlock w/ keyfob


Check the buttons.. I have an 06 Grand Prix with the Remote starter on the top and it seems that the conductor on the buttons worn out.. Take the keyfob apart, pull the rubber buttons off the chip, lick your finger and touch the place where the unlock (right side of the fob) would be. That should unlock your doors. I just did it with mine. I would just buy another fob on ebay and change the buttons out.. Hope this works

Apr 23, 2010 | 2007 GMC Yukon Denali

1 Answer

My 2006 Yukon liftgate does not lock with the other doors. Can someone help me? Thanks!!


It is probably the actuator inside the tailgate. I found this URL on internet http://www.chefseattle.com/blog/site-news/suburban-rear-liftgate-wont-unlock-how-to-fix/ Although not your problem, it will assist you in panel removal and actuator repair or replacement.

Feb 24, 2010 | 2006 Chevrolet Tahoe

2 Answers

2005 gmc yukon back passenger doors will not unlock with key remote and rear hatch wont unlock or open


Either the relay for the locks is bad or the fuse. When you push the power lock on the inside if the doors do not unlock then I would check the fuses, both inside and under the hood. If they do work then the relay/s may be bad. You are pushing your key button twice correct?

Jun 21, 2009 | 2005 GMC Yukon Xl Denali

1 Answer

2004 Yukon liftgate fuse error code


Replace the ECC 10ma fuse on the driver's side fuse panel.
This happens to me periodically.

Mar 22, 2009 | 2004 GMC Yukon

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