Question about 1998 Plymouth Grand Voyager

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1998 Grand Voyager with a re-built transmission needs front pads and rotors, rear wheel cylinders, right rear wheel bearing, top of strut tower, right outer tie rod end and alignment and compressor for air conditioning replaced. Now there's a burning smell under the hood, someone said it smells like oil. Should I use all of our money to fix it or put the money towards a newer vehicle? I am on a budget with little savings.

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My opinion is that if your going to have to pay a repair shop to do all of that, it may be better to start looking around for another vehicle. If you take the time to check around, there are quite a few people getting rid of that second vehicle because of job cut backs etc, that are in pretty good shape. The year doesn't bother me, I just check the condition, and how well it's been maintained, and mileage. I'm currently driving a 99 Caravan, and just bought a 98' that was lady driven, never seen snow, not a spot of rust on it, 4 new tires, new transmission last year and I'm thinking it will need very little if anything for safety, for $1000. I've been keeping my eye on it for 2 years now, as all I see the woman do is wash it, and make the odd short trip to town in it. She drives it to Florida for the winter, and back here to Canada in the summer.Try not to rush if you don't have to, but check all adds in local area, you just may find what you need, cheaper than repairing what you have. Now if you have a friend or neighbor or relative that can do most of that for you at a reduced labor rate, it may be the way to go. Chrysler replacement parts are usually fairly reasonable as far as price goes, and if your van is still in good shape other than that strut tower, it may give you a few more years of service when it's all done.

Posted on Jul 24, 2010


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Clunking in the front passenger side when breaking and turns weird

One common thing on those if brakes have been checked is the strut bearing assy at top of front struts. Grinds and thumps especially when turning. If not experienced at changing them, don\'t attempt it as it can be very dangerous. You can buy a complete strut and bearing assy, but if too hard on the wallet, get quote from parts store to change bearing for you, or an auto service.

Dec 27, 2013 | 1998 Plymouth Grand Voyager

1 Answer


Christian; I'll take a few pot shots at your problem. Your front struts have bearings at the top which allow the front to turn smoothly rather than your springs crackling and going bump, bump.
With an assistant, Open the hood, and to the left and right are the strut towers, easily identifiable because they are just above the wheels. Have your friend start the van "KEEP YOUR HANDS OUT OF THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT! Have your assistant turn the steering wheel full left lock and full right lock. without the vehicle in motion or in gear. Ideally, you want it on a paved surface. Chances are that is the source of the noise. Good luck.

Jun 16, 2011 | 1998 Dodge Grand Caravan

1 Answer

Front brakes are locking & seizing up. Put New brake pads, new rotors, new calipers, new hoses, new wheel right master cylinder.

Hello, wow sounds like you have done it all. But there is a spliter block that is right below the master cylinder that the two lines from the master cylinder goes into and then four other lines come out of it going to each wheel. Not often but sometimes these will cause that problem. Good luck

Jan 18, 2011 | 1998 Plymouth Voyager

1 Answer

The rear driver side wheel is leaning inwards how do i fix it.

You did not indicate which Model vehicle this is. In general, a car with front-wheel drive has rear wheels which are Independent of each other. This means there is no solid axle going from one side of the car to the other.

The Independent rear wheel is mounted to a strut. The strut assembly is adjustable and gets an Alignment just like the front-end parts do. It must be put on an Alignment machine. Another area which can tilt a rear wheel is a severely worn spindle or wheel bearing.

This would mean the rear strut may be properly in place, but the spindle and bearing inside the rear brake drum or rotor has too much play and is allowing the wheel to tilt. You would hear a loud grinding noise if the bearing is bad.

I do not want you to ignore getting your car checked, but a complete answer includes vehicles which have the rear wheel construction built to allow for the rear wheels to flex in and out depending on terrain and load. These would be the cars where if you jacked them up, the rear wheels would not come down straight. It takes a few miles before the parts level out.

You should take the weight off the one wheel and see if there is play anywhere. The struts can be shimmed and the shims may have fallen out. You may have a rusted strut tower. Once you assure yourself the car is safe to drive for Alignment, thats the next step.

Thanks for using Fixya. I hope my solution is very helpful to you.

Jan 10, 2011 | Ford Taurus Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Just had radiator flushed and refilled same with transmission new struts on front end and shocks on rear and front rotor and pads now i have a noise like bolt stuck in the tire and it starts at 30 mph...

sounds like you may have not gotten the bolt in the caliper mount right. I have had cars come in with this problem and the caliper lays on top of the rotor and does not make noise unless it' moving. Pull the front wheels off and check to see that the bolts are in their prospective holes. Next if you don't find that as a problem look a the strut bushings they may be damaged, to check raise the wheel off the grind with a jack and put a bar under the wheel and lift up and down quickly. If you hear a bump you have found the problem. Also sometimes the strut springs come loose check that the spring does not turn in the strut housing. Hope this helps.

Dec 02, 2010 | 1998 Plymouth Voyager

1 Answer

What type of rear brakes does this car have? Afriend wants help changing them. Also any specific areas I should be concerned with?

Hi Friend: On your vehicle you'll have disc Brakes Front And Rear.Your Changing the Rear. Break loose your Lug Nuts Jack it Up Secure the Car with Good Jack Stands.Then finish remove tires,Besure To take the cap off your Masrer Cylinder and Take a Suction Bulb and Remove not Quite 1/2 of the Brake Fluid out of the Master So when you Push the Pistons Back in the Caliper you don't Get Brake Fluid Everywhere. Know you'll see your Calipers and Brake Pads. Remove Calipers.NOTE: Check your Calipers for Corrosion that Builds up over the Years on the Caliper piston. You'll need a C-Clamp To Push the Piston Back in the Caiper Flush with the Housing.You Need to Inspect your Rotors for Grooves If you have hit Metal to Metal From Pads to Rotor. I would Just Replace both Rear Rotors.Also while you have the Wheels Off, Inspect your Rear Bearings.If the are not showing Wear then Clen Them and Re-Pack with a Heavy Duty Wheel Bearing Grease & New Cotter Pins. NOTE: Your Rear Pads in Most cases for that Particular Vehicle Sometime the New Pads come with Rubber Shims,These will go on the Back side of your Inner Pads on Both Sides. Just Reverse the Removal Procedure And Your Good To Go.Don't For get to Check the Fluid Level in Your Master Cylinder.Top it off if Need. This Should get you Going.Please Let Me Know how my Solution helped you. Thank And Good Luck. From -d_hubbs

Jun 08, 2010 | 2001 Pontiac Grand Am SE

2 Answers

Need direction on replacing the front hub assembly on the front passenger side

It's a press-in bearing. If you don't have the tools to press the bearing, you can still save some money. Here's what I did:
- Drain transmission oil,
- Remove front right wheel,
- Remove brake caliper, pads, caliper hanger,
- Remove the wheel speed sensor (even if no ABS),
- Remove the two large strut bolts (100+ lbs ft/lbs of torque),
- Remove the ball joint nut,
- Remove the ball joint from the steering knuckle,
- Remove the axle from the transmission using a pry bar.

Now you'll have the axle, steering knuckle, wheel hub and brake rotor removed from the car, and it'll all be ceased together. Bring the whole thing to your favorite mechanic and get him to separate all these parts and to install the new bearing in the steering knuckle. It'll cost about $100.

Now you'll have the axle, steering knuckle with new bearing and hub installed, and the brake rotor. Take these parts home and put the car back together in reverse order.

Seriously consider replacing the axle while you're at it.

Nov 17, 2009 | 2003 Hyundai Tiburon

2 Answers

How long should rotors last on my 2005 Navigator. Had them changed at 40M miles but feel they are going again now at 60M predominatly when hot and at higher speeds.

Very unlikely that the rotors need replacing. They may have warped a bit and need to be resurfaced. Doubt that though. If it's shaking that makes you think that, you may just need to have your wheels rebalanced or check pads.

Jul 14, 2009 | 2005 Lincoln Navigator

2 Answers

1992 Ford Bronco 5.0L fuel problems (problems)

First one problem at a time then move to the next after one is fixed focus.
Blue or gray is the question? if it is blue it's oil, you didn't mention if it is a blast of smoke when you gun it or does it smoke all the time? is it black smoke ? overfuel problem ? is this why you asked about the Inertia switch?can't read your mind. It's just throwing in an issue you don't need to deal with, it only stops fuel in a collision or tire blow out it would not run period. The bumping noise can be the shock or struts banging around or the nuts loose, Strut tower bearing bad. Check the bushings o the control arms and anti sway bars, Ford uses different names but look at all the rubber front and rear, try moving things around with your hands. top bottom one side then the next do in a logical way start at one point figure it out move to the next possiblity.
On the driver side you have a stuck caliper or warped cylinder so pull apart and rebuild or buy a rebuilt caliper pre loaded, if you don't know how to check them then I suggest you buy a pre loaded caliper, did you lube the rails on the caliper moves on? did you test them for free movement? Replace the rotor it will be toast. Also check the Differential if it has free play in the shaft, Jack up the wheel and move the wheel back and forth with the transmission in netural and wheels blocked if you have more than 1/4 of a turn on the pinion bearing then you will need to shim the rear end pinion gear, or replace the crush bearing, But only if you know how to set up a rear end. Otherwise take it to someone who knows what they are doing, or take a class at local community college to learn this stuff, it harder to trouble shoot some of this stuff over the net, You could buy a book for bakes and other areas you need help with. I just gave you a few answers but need to ask many more questions to give you really good answers. Can't read your mind nor see with your eyes don't know what you have done and what you have not done.

Jul 06, 2009 | 1992 Ford Bronco

3 Answers

I have a 2001 grand am that makes a rubbing or grinding noise from the front end. I have some vibrations in the sterring wheel as well. this is not noticable until the car is above 30mph.

Your front struts may be bad,There is a rubber seat at the top of the strut that can start to bind while driving and turning. Replace struts and realign front end.

Jul 27, 2008 | 2001 Pontiac Grand Am SE

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