Question about 2003 Land Rover Freelander

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I need to bypass security due to bad remote,or any alternative

My remote had partial contact, i open and resolder terminals, since then i could not deactivate my security nor start my car from that same spot, its 2weeks now, electrician could not handle. no communication between my remote and my car, pls helpi need to bypass the security issue.

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  • joelomotosho Jul 21, 2010

    Its a Landrover Freelander 2002

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  • 136 Answers

The security in the freelander is the one system that cannot be cracked, the only option is to send the remote to a company in england that will servies your remote ,www.alarmremotes.co.uk/new_page_4.htm. they should be able to help you .

Posted on Jul 23, 2010

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Immobiliser on a Ve series 2 sedan 2012 how do I bypass the immobiliser and security alarm


You cannot bypass it which is why the security system is there. If you have a problem with the security system then you will need to transport the car to a Holden service center to rectify it for you. If you start messing with the system you will make your current problem worse. Contact Holden service and explain the problem exactly and they will advise you from there.

If you go to the boot and open the battery compartment on the left side of the boot in the sedan and disconnect the negative battery terminal for a few minutes the system may correct itself when you reconnect the power. If not, then it is off to Holden service to deal with the security issue.

May 04, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

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How to test an alternator


Diagnosing alternators are about the same on all vehicles. You will need a digital multimeter to do the tests. ( WalMart has cheap ones for around $9) <br />First, you need to make sure it isn't really a battery problem.<br />One at a time, take off each battery cable at the battery and thoroughly clean the terminals and cable ends and retighten securly. NOTE: take off negative (black) first, leave it off, then do the positive (red) cable. Re-attach positive and then negative last. This way you will avoid any contact spark on the positive side which could damage your computer or wiring.<br />Next, check the voltage on your battery. With multimeter on Volts DC 20 setting, you should get around 12.65 Volts DC. <br />NOTE: Always use red lead on meter to positive (red) cable / battery post and black lead to negative (black) cable.<br />If your battery was discharged some due to your alternator suspition, you can go to the next step and start / jump start the engine.<br />With engine running test voltage at the battery again. You should get 13.4 to 14.2 volts.<br />Wiggle your test leads, scratching at the metal battery / cable terminals to ensure a good metal contact.<br />If you get more than 14.2 volts DC, your voltage regulator in the alternator is bad and the alternator must be replaced.<br />If you get less than 13 volts DC, move your black test lead to an engine ground (metal bolt which holds the alternator on, or clean metal surface / bolt on engine itself) and see if your readings are the same. If you get a higher reading of 13.4 - 14.2 volts your negative connection (cable or attatch point on engine) is faulty.<br />If still the same (less than 13 Volts) Move your red test lead to the connection on the back of the alternator itself where the red wire connects and black lead to ground. If your voltage is higher in the 13.2-14 volt range, your positive (red) cable or connection in that circut is faulty.<br />If none of these test produces at least 13.2 volts DC, replace the alternator.<br />If you get good alternator output voltages, but your battery won't hold a charge, have your battery load tested (free at auto stores or WalMart) as it is probably bad.<br />Hope that helps!<br />Mike

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Alternator output 11.9vdc to 12.4vdc. Replaced with new alternator, same output as old. Car will not stay running due to battery running car. Any ideas?


Is there battery voltage at the bigger gage wire on the back of the alternator ? The other wire in the connector is a control feed from the PCM - engine computer , It is marked L ,if you hook a test light to positive battery terminal an touch the other point end to the L terminal an it starts to charge your alternator is not being turned on by the PCM ! Could have open circuit or bad PCM !

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Can a starter drop dead with no previous indications of it going bad?


Hi Frank , what make vehicle ? Do you have any warning lights lit on the dash , SECURITY maybe ? Check engine light ? Did you check to see if there is battery voltage at the starter solenoid ? Did you check if there is A starter relay ?

Apr 26, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

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I have a 1998 ford windstar and it won't start. What would cause alternator problems


Often the small pigtail wiring harness that plugs into alternator will come loose due to constant vibration. Unplug it being careful not to break the small plastic clips that secure it to alternator. Inspect wiring to make sure there are no breaks in wires, if so repair as necessary. If possible, partially fill the cavity on alternator that has the metal spade terminals, with dielectric grease or even Vaseline and then securely plug back in. Typically this will remedy the situation. If not you need to have alternator tested.

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Parking lights won't go off even when ignition is off in a 1998 Subaru Forester


If you just got the car, the light may just be on delay mode, i.e will go off after about 30secs just ensure that the light is properly off.

This could also be a wiring problem. could be due to a bad fuse making partial contact, this will need changing.
it could also be form wires making false and wrong contact so call in you auto-mechanic to have it checked.

In the mean time before checking the wiring fault, you don't want to run down your battery so you can remove the battery terminal and preserve the battery..

Jan 08, 2011 | Subaru Forester Cars & Trucks

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The alternator is not charging the battery


this is due to a bad alternator or bad excite wire.. take off the positive battery terminal while the car is running, if it stops running you need to check both of these to solve the issue

Sep 20, 2010 | 1983 Porsche 944

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No power, car dies, whenn turnn igntion here clicking sumtimes hear nuthing. brake lightturns on and dims abs light comes on at times turns off , i have a faulty alrm switch that i have to bypass cause...


This sounds like a weak or dead battery due to a bad alternator, i would start by having the battery and the charging system checked, i think you will find the battery is low or maybe no good or the alternator is not charging the battery.

Sep 18, 2010 | 1999 Mitsubishi Montero Sport

1 Answer

Batterie light stays on after changing alternator


The yellow wire in your Alternator plug Have a "Fuse Link" at the starter relay. If that fuse link is bad the alternator will not charge. To test jump the yellow wire with the hot wire at the alternator and if the alternator is new it should charge. Check and install the fuse links.

Other details that you can try:
First ensure your battery terminals are clean and free of corrosion. Make sure you use a battery tool to clean them up to ensure a good connection. reconnect and tighten.

NOTE: Some electrical systems need to have the system computer reset after changing an alternator. If you changed the battery first, then changed the alternator, this may not have happened. Sometimes it's as easy as fully disconnecting both terminals and reconnecting the battery.
Check the voltage from the positive terminal of the battery to the negative terminal on the battery(record this).


Then check voltage from the positive terminal of the battery to where the negative terminal connects to the block. if this reading is lower your negative battery cable may be the problem. I've had them crystallize before from age so badly that they lost flexibility and began breaking internally. Replace it.


Then check voltage from the smaller positive cable post on the alternator and the negative terminal on the battery. If this is lower the smaller cable may be the problem. Replace it.


Then check voltage from where your positive cable hooks up to the solenoid and to the negative terminal on the battery. if this is lower your positive battery cable may be the problem. Replace it.


Charge the battery fully and take the vehicle to a local auto parts store and see if they can run a charging system test (usually a free service). They should be able to tell you what kind of shape your battery is in and the alternator output. A good alternator will put out 14+ volts, if it's putting out 12-14 volts it's wearing out and needs replaced.


If your alternator is putting out 10-10.5 volts or less means one of the diode pairs are bad, 5-5.25 volts or less 2 diode pairs are bad. Either way the alternator is not charging the battery and it's the fault of the voltage regulator.


Ask the person doing the test if he can tell you what the field voltage is on the alternator. If they can and it is around 12 volts or more you can probably bypass the next test.



Start the vehicle and hold a steel tool near the back of the alternator (not on the pulley side). It should be drawn magnetically to the center of the alternator. If it doesn't your alternator is not generating the magnetic field needed, to generate electricity. This could be due to a bad alternator or wiring.


WARNING: The next test is the "old fashioned" way we shade-tree mechanics used to do this. It can be done with the engine running in most cases, but you must be extremely careful that you don't get clothing or long hair anywhere near the pulleys. You do this at your own risk. If you are uncomfortable with taking such a risk, have your mechanic look into it. Disconnect the two wire box-like electrical connector from the alternator's voltage regulator and see if there is any voltage (should be around 12 or more volts DC) from the wires going to the alternator. You can try testing this with the engine shut down and the key on, but it may not work on all vehicles.


With connector disconnected, if the voltage is less than 12volts or non-existent, it's a wiring problem. - With connector disconnected, if it is 12 volts or above it's probably the alternator (Bad windings.)
Set the multimeter to Ohms. Touch probes together and calibrate the needle to zero on right side of meter readout. (If the needle does not move to the right, you may need to replace the meter's battery or fuse). With the Alternator connector disconnected check the resistance of the alternator at the connector blades. If the needle goes to infinity, there is an open circuit in the windings. Replace the alternator.


Other things that can cause charging system problems:


  • Excessive starter draw - Remove starter and take to parts store for testing
  • Bad solenoid
  • Failed engine compartment fuses or resisters - Look for and check big rectangular ceramic ones as well on antique/classic vehicles
  • Failed fusible links
  • Failing ignition switch - Usually under the dash, Not at the key
  • Wiring to the key assembly inside the steering column - or on the dash older vehicles
  • Bad computer modules
  • Electrical wiring - This one takes the longest to isolate
  • Particularly hot wires arcing to ground
  • Some other Windstar threads suggest checking wiring bundles under the rubber boots at door hinges.
  • Other unassociated electrical components shorting to ground and placing a drain on the system - could be anything from a cigarette lighter, to lighting, to electric radiator fans failing to shut off, ignition coil, radio, sensor probes shorting to ground, etc. etc
Hope this help (remember rated and comment this).

Mar 19, 2010 | 2000 Ford Windstar

2 Answers

2001 Dodge Ram 1500 Keyless Entry/Security System


Your keyless/security system may have been damaged by the spikes. But, assuming you've already checked all the fuses, I would start by having the alternator tested. I would also check the alternator wire connection to the power distribution center (pdc). It can loosen and cause different problems.

Good Luck!

Jul 28, 2008 | 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 Truck 2WD

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