2000 VW Beetle ebrake needs adjusting, ebrake light goes off too
I jus recently replaced my rear brakes. one of the calipers was seized so i replaced that as well. my problem is now with the ebrake, it has a lil give to it now and is not as tight as before. the ebrake light n beeping also goes off often too (annoying). ive read a lil bit up on it n apparently the ebrakes r self adjusting. is that true?? can i adjust the ebrake so that its tight again??
You probably screwed up. The rear caliper was probably not stuck, but you probably did not realize you much rotate the caliper in order to retact it, while apply inward pressure. The caliper you replaced was probably fine. The other one you probably broke by applying too much retraction pressure with a clamp or something, while not rotating it. By forcing it back without rotation, you damaged the internal ratchet in the piston. Now it won't stay out, and will constantly be retracting too much. You should never have to adust the manual brake cable after doing brake pads. If you do, then you know you have screwed something up. This is not like brake shoes, where the location can vary. Cables can get old and stretched and need adjustment, but now that quickly. The first clue was to never replace a caliper unless you broke the bleeder off. They are so easy and cheap to rebuild, that anytime someone wants to replace one, you can tell they don't know what they are doing. Sorry, but you need to replace the piston in the caliper you left on. The piston has a cylinder with a spring in it inside it, in its backside, with a hole in it that engages a pin in the back of the caliper. I hope you just broke the spring detent, because if you broke the pin, that would require a new caliper.
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you will have to adjust up the e-brakes to make them work.. Some e-brakes are adjusted by turning the calliper piston or by repeated application of the e-[brake lever that the cable is attached to. Check out the manual for the adjustment
Most people do not remove the rear rotors and inspect the Emergency Brake shoes. These often peel off the metal backing on the shoe and jam inside the interior Drum of the rotor. Some people will hear a rusty grinding noise after pulling away from a stop.
These brakes have the old "star-wheel" adjusters and may need to be adjusted more loosely to remove the rotor. Its a bad system in my opinion; the drum always rusts and corrodes and the Ebrake shoes are banana peel thin. With corrosion, the drum acts like a grinder and chews up the brake shoes. Some other configurations use a mechanical link on the caliper to make the service brakes act in an Emergency. It will override a hydraulic failure, but you still need good pads on the caliper.
that is how you contract the caliper on the Audi/VW rear brakes. I would check the brake fluid, I would also recheck the back brake lines as it is/was a bear to replace the rear brake pads. Hope this helped Tim
It needs to be twisted clockwise while being pushed in. It's best to get a rear brake caliper tool that does this easily. If you want to save some money and fight with it, you can try turning the piston with channel locks while pushing it in, but be careful not to damage the boot.
When using the tool, it helps if you spray the boot with brake cleaner. This lubes the boot a little so it slides rather than bunching up and tearing.
Also make sure to take the cap off of the master cylinder resevoir so that the fluid has somewhere to go as you push the piston in.
Park your car on a level surface. If you have a stick shift car
make sure the car is in gear. Do not set the parking brake. Place
blocks in front of the front tires so the car does not move while you
are working on it.
Open the hood of your car and locate the master cylinder. If
necessary, remove brake fluid until the level in the container is less
than half full. A turkey baster is a good tool for this. Put the brake
fluid in the plastic container and dispose of it the way you dispose of
Raise the rear end of your car with your car jack. Remove the rear tire or wheel assembly.
Remove the parking brake cable from the back of the caliper. Use the pliers to remove the cable clip (restraining clip).
Use the socket wrench to remove the upper mounting bolt from
the caliper. If the upper guide pin moves while you do this, use a
back-up wrench to hold the upper guide pin.
Rotate the caliper downward, pivoting it on the lower caliper bolt. Remove the inner and outer brake pads from the caliper.
Install the new Brake Pads
Turn the caliper piston clockwise to retract it into the caliper housing. Insert the new brake pads into the caliper.
Swing the caliper upward and into place. Apply a thin coat
of thread locking compound to the bolt and use the socket wrench to
tighten the bolt to 271 inch lb. (35 Nm).
Reattach the parking brake cable to the caliper.
Replace the tire wheel assembly. Lower the car to the ground.
Pump the brake pedal a few times to seat the brake pads. Do this before trying to move your car.
Add fluid to the master cylinder container to replace any you removed before you removed the old brake pads.
Season the brake pads by making only gentle stops when you are driving for the first week after you install the new brake pads. Try not to do any hard stopping when you are seasoning the brakes.
the front pads have wear sensors built in so you can change the fronts only if you wish(genuine parts only,and you will have to get the system reset after.)
the special tool is required to force the pistons back into the calipers.you could do it yourself but as it requires you to buy the parts,take off the front wheels etc, by the time youve done all that,1 hours labour is all it cost for a dealer to fit them........and you dont get your hands dirty..........
I fixed mine!! First check your ebrake switch by starting your vw and putting the ebrake on. If your daytime running lights stay on when the ebrake is engaged, its NOT the switch. Stay with me here. Turn vw off and pull fuse number 5. Mine was blown, but the legend only shows a pic of a book with an exclamation point. Meaning the book will tell you what it is, BUT IT DOESN'T . I replaced the 7.5 amp fuse and voila, victory. If it is not number 5, pull every fuse one at a time and inspect them closely. Do not assume, check each one. That is how I found mine after I bought and replaced the $10 switch. Running lights stay on because the switch is not being acknowledged, not because it is bad.
I searched every forum I could find on this and there were no answers to this problem anywhere. So I am posting so there is an answer out there. What put me on the right track was the running lights staying on when the ebrake was engaged after I put in the new switch.