Question about 2006 Chrysler Town & Country

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Rear air went blew out try to replace rings on block. Found out that the torque bolts were stripped out. Yay. So I would like to block the rear lines and use front A/c only. Is this possible?

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You should just be able to not run the rear ac, if this is not an option with your van, then yes you can 'cap' off the rear ac lines and just run the front, but it takes some planning and recharging.

Posted on Jul 21, 2010


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3.9l V6. Can I re-torque rear caliper bolts to 26 ft. lbs.?

you could but at this point I would just leave them alone unless there is a problem in the function of the calipers in which case remove and replace the bolts with new bolts as the used bolts will be stretched

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Feb 05, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

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I want to replace lower control arm 2006 ford escape

I replaced both lower control arms on my 03' Escape last night, it took about 1.5 hours/side. A second set of hands is helpful. The only difficulty was the pass. side ball joint bolt and nut were seized and stripped while attempting to remove. I had to air chisel the nut off but would have used hack saw if necessary.
I had bad ball joints and the control arm mounts and bushings appeared corroded and worn. On many messageboards I found debates about replacing the ball joints only or the whole control arm. I felt full arm replacement made the most sense. It is assembled with the bushings and ball joint in place. I bought Moog units from Rockauto for @ 77/pc. that allow for greasing the ball joint. I also bought new body bolts from the dealer at 20$/pc., since I was concerned about corrosion.
I have found varying processes for removing. The following worked for me.
1. Sprayed three bolt areas with PB thrust(penetrant) a few days ahead and soaked again the day before. I am in WNY and corrosion is a big problem. I dreaded breaking off one of the main bolts in the body.
2. Jack up, support vehicle properly (2 jack stands), I pulled the plastic underbody splash shields just enough to get better access. They were 10mm some broke off while removing.
3. Started removing main control arm bolts. The rear bolt came out easily on both sides using 1/2 in. breaker bar and 19mm? socket. The front horizontal bolt (15mm)made alot of noise coming out. I worked it back and forth and sprayed penetrant as I removed it. The driver side had me worried I was gonna snap it but no problems. The end threads corrode and as they remove through the body nut threads there is alot of resistance.
4. Remove ball joint nut and bolt(15mm). See above note about having to cut off nut. Once the bolt is removed, alot of online how tos mention joint pullers and other specialized tools. I just pried out the control arm from the body (to give the joint a better angle to the knuckle). I put a pry bar between the pinch joint of the knuckle and the ball joint. Then rap the control arm with a hammer while prying and the joint falls right out. A little spray penetrant helps too.
5. To reassemble:
A. Place rear mount of control arm in place and get bolt started.
B. Place Front mount in place. One side we had to pry forward in the rear mount area to get front in place, the other side went in no trouble. Start bolt here too.
C. Angle ball joint to where you think it lines up best with pinch bolt of knuckle. Get it started and we used a rubber mallet to somewhat gently persuade it into place. Once it was lined up we rapped the joint area while shaking the knuckle/strut and it pops right into place. Line up groove of ball joint with bolt hole. Start bolt and nut. My bolts were facing forward so I replaced them in the same way they came out. Torqued to 52 ft./lbs
6. Torqued front bolt to 150 ft/lbs and the rear bolt to 85 ft./lbs. There is a torque diagram I found online showing the control arm and giving these specs.
7. Install grease fitting, grease joints and tie rod end while in there.
8. Pop plastic splash shields back in place and rebolt.
9. Finish up,schedule an alignment, have a beer and feel good you saved about 400$ or more.

Apr 24, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

I have been told that you have to replace the head bolts when replacing the head gasket because the bolts will stretch. Is this true?

If you change the head bolts that's the safest bet for trouble free operation. But, I've changed head bolts on Hondas for years and they never stretched. I know this is for a Kia. My best guess is that it's not necessary since the Chilton based manuals don't say to do this.

If the head is torqued down to specifications and it leaks, then I would say, otherwise. Even torque is more important than bolt stretch, especially if the bolts don't stretch so much that the head gasket can't be tight against the head and block.

Jan 31, 2011 | 1999 Kia Sportage

1 Answer

Procedure for replacing rear whl brgs on a 2003 escape awd

4-Wheel Drive
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Negative battery cable
    • Rear wheel
    • Rear brake shoes
    • Rear halfshaft nut and loosen the halfshaft from the hub
    • Wheel hub and place it in a vise
    • Inner wheel bearing race from the hub
    • Antilock Brake System (ABS) sensor bracket and move the sensor aside, if equipped
    • Parking brake cable from the steering knuckle
    • Brake line from the wheel cylinder and support the knuckle
    • Lower shock absorber nut
    • Lower ball joint by holding the ball joint stud
    • Upper ball joint
    • Coil spring while noting the location of the insulator
    • Steering knuckle cam
    • Steering knuckle
    • Snapring and press out the outer wheel bearing race from the knuckle

      Rear hub and bearing
      Click to Enlarge

To install:

  1. Install or connect the following:
    • New wheel bearing into the steering knuckle
    • Snapring to the knuckle
    • Wheel hub
    • Steering knuckle cam and hand tighten the bolt
    • Coil spring
    • Shock absorber lower nut. Torque the nut to 85 ft. lbs. (115 Nm) for 2002-04 models; 129 ft. lbs. (175 Nm).
    • Upper ball joint. Torque the nut to 76 ft. lbs. (103 Nm).
    • Lower ball joint. Torque the nut to 76 ft. lbs. (103 Nm). Align the steering knuckle cam and torque the bolt to 85 ft. lbs. (115 Nm).
    • Brake line to the wheel cylinder. Torque the brake line bracket bolt to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm) and the brake line fastener to 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm).
    • Parking brake cable to the backing plate. Torque the bolt to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm).
    • ABS sensor bracket. Torque the bolt to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm), if equipped
    • Halfshaft nut. Torque the nut to 214 ft. lbs. (290 Nm).
    • Brake shoes
    • Rear wheel
    • Negative battery cable
  2. Fill and bleed the brake system.
  3. Check and adjust the wheel alignment as needed.

2-Wheel Drive
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Negative battery cable
    • Rear wheel
    • Rear brake drum
    • Wheel hub nut
    • Wheel hub
    • Inner wheel bearing race from the hub
    • Snapring
    • Wheel bearing outer race from the knuckle

      Rear hub and bearing
      Click to Enlarge 06017-esca-g93.gif

      Rear hub removal

      Inner wheel bearing removal-rear hub/bearing

      Rear wheel bearing removal-2wd

      Rear wheel bearing removal-4wd

To install:
Install or connect the following:

  • Wheel bearing in to the knuckle
  • Snapring
  • Wheel hub into the wheel bearing
  • Wheel hub nut. Torque the nut to 214 ft. lbs. (290 Nm).
  • Brake drum
  • Rear wheel
  • Negative battery cable

    Rear wheel bearing installation
    hope this helps if so send testimonial comment or even any other questions you have

Jan 16, 2011 | Ford Escape Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

2001 Mitsubishi Diamante water pump location

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Drain the engine coolant.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:

    Timing belt Alternator brace from the water pump Timing belt rear cover Water pump mounting bolts Water pump, gasket and O-ring

To install:
  1. Install or connect the following:

    New O-ring on the water inlet pipe. Coat the O-ring with water or coolant. Do not allow oil or other grease to contact the O-ring. Water pump to the engine block, with new gasket. Torque the mounting bolts to 10 ft. lbs. (13 Nm) Alternator brace on the water pump. Torque the brace pivot bolt to 17 ft. lbs. (24 Nm). Timing belt rear cover Timing belt Remaining components
  2. Refill the engine with coolant.
  3. Connect the negative battery cable, start the engine and check for leaks.

Hope this gets you back on the road.

Dec 04, 2010 | 2001 Mitsubishi Diamante

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Vaccum line fell off rear end not sure where it belongs

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Feb 14, 2010 | 1997 Dodge Ram 2500 Club Cab

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The starter is located under the intake manifold on this engine.


Jun 17, 2009 | 1998 Lexus Gs 400

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Want to replace plugs and ignition wires on a 2004,V-6, 2.7l Tiberon

The air handler you describe is called the 'surge tank' (or I perfer to call it the intake manifold). This manifold must be removed to access the 'rear bank' of plugs & wires on the 2.7 lit V6. There are three or four 12 mm bolts on the rear side of this tank (you'll have to feel for them) and the others are directly under your nose up front down the center of the engine (two long 12mm, three short 12mm and two 12mm nuts. You will want to purchase a new gasket for this manifold (recommended because reused gaskets have been know to leak - rare - but happens). When you put it back together, start all the bolts/nuts finger loose first, do not tighten the rear bolts until after you have torqued the main center-line manifold bolts first ( I believe the torque is 14 to 17 ft lbs) If you don't do these first, you could crack/damage the manifold.

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Torque specs 7.5 inch rear axle 96 ford ranger

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