Question about 2006 Chrysler Town & Country

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Rear air went blew out try to replace rings on block. Found out that the torque bolts were stripped out. Yay. So I would like to block the rear lines and use front A/c only. Is this possible?

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You should just be able to not run the rear ac, if this is not an option with your van, then yes you can 'cap' off the rear ac lines and just run the front, but it takes some planning and recharging.

Posted on Jul 21, 2010


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3.9l V6. Can I re-torque rear caliper bolts to 26 ft. lbs.?

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I want to replace lower control arm 2006 ford escape

I replaced both lower control arms on my 03' Escape last night, it took about 1.5 hours/side. A second set of hands is helpful. The only difficulty was the pass. side ball joint bolt and nut were seized and stripped while attempting to remove. I had to air chisel the nut off but would have used hack saw if necessary.
I had bad ball joints and the control arm mounts and bushings appeared corroded and worn. On many messageboards I found debates about replacing the ball joints only or the whole control arm. I felt full arm replacement made the most sense. It is assembled with the bushings and ball joint in place. I bought Moog units from Rockauto for @ 77/pc. that allow for greasing the ball joint. I also bought new body bolts from the dealer at 20$/pc., since I was concerned about corrosion.
I have found varying processes for removing. The following worked for me.
1. Sprayed three bolt areas with PB thrust(penetrant) a few days ahead and soaked again the day before. I am in WNY and corrosion is a big problem. I dreaded breaking off one of the main bolts in the body.
2. Jack up, support vehicle properly (2 jack stands), I pulled the plastic underbody splash shields just enough to get better access. They were 10mm some broke off while removing.
3. Started removing main control arm bolts. The rear bolt came out easily on both sides using 1/2 in. breaker bar and 19mm? socket. The front horizontal bolt (15mm)made alot of noise coming out. I worked it back and forth and sprayed penetrant as I removed it. The driver side had me worried I was gonna snap it but no problems. The end threads corrode and as they remove through the body nut threads there is alot of resistance.
4. Remove ball joint nut and bolt(15mm). See above note about having to cut off nut. Once the bolt is removed, alot of online how tos mention joint pullers and other specialized tools. I just pried out the control arm from the body (to give the joint a better angle to the knuckle). I put a pry bar between the pinch joint of the knuckle and the ball joint. Then rap the control arm with a hammer while prying and the joint falls right out. A little spray penetrant helps too.
5. To reassemble:
A. Place rear mount of control arm in place and get bolt started.
B. Place Front mount in place. One side we had to pry forward in the rear mount area to get front in place, the other side went in no trouble. Start bolt here too.
C. Angle ball joint to where you think it lines up best with pinch bolt of knuckle. Get it started and we used a rubber mallet to somewhat gently persuade it into place. Once it was lined up we rapped the joint area while shaking the knuckle/strut and it pops right into place. Line up groove of ball joint with bolt hole. Start bolt and nut. My bolts were facing forward so I replaced them in the same way they came out. Torqued to 52 ft./lbs
6. Torqued front bolt to 150 ft/lbs and the rear bolt to 85 ft./lbs. There is a torque diagram I found online showing the control arm and giving these specs.
7. Install grease fitting, grease joints and tie rod end while in there.
8. Pop plastic splash shields back in place and rebolt.
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Apr 24, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

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I have been told that you have to replace the head bolts when replacing the head gasket because the bolts will stretch. Is this true?

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If the head is torqued down to specifications and it leaks, then I would say, otherwise. Even torque is more important than bolt stretch, especially if the bolts don't stretch so much that the head gasket can't be tight against the head and block.

Jan 31, 2011 | 1999 Kia Sportage

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2001 Mitsubishi Diamante water pump location

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Drain the engine coolant.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:

    Timing belt Alternator brace from the water pump Timing belt rear cover Water pump mounting bolts Water pump, gasket and O-ring

To install:
  1. Install or connect the following:

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  2. Refill the engine with coolant.
  3. Connect the negative battery cable, start the engine and check for leaks.

Hope this gets you back on the road.

Dec 04, 2010 | 2001 Mitsubishi Diamante

1 Answer

I blew my head gasket and i need to no how much

My main concern is that in 1990 Honda offered 2 engines...the D15B1 or the D16A6. I am going to assume that the engine in question is a D16A6, and the torque specs is; 47 ft/lbs for cylinder head bolts. When installing the bolts, dip them in CLEAN motor oil before inserting them into the block, and then tighten them as follows; there are 5 bolts in the front of the head, and 5 bolts in the rear. For the sake of explaination the front bolts are numbered from left to right...1,2,3,4,5 and the rear bolts are numbered from left to right...6,7,8,9,10. The correct tightening sequence for this arrangement would be; 3,8,2,9,4,7,5,6,1,10. I would recommend tightening the bolts to ~26 ft/lbs the first round, and then to 47 ft/lbs for the final round. Hope that this helps.

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