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Re: getting the slack on the tension pulley
Remove the tensioner and collapse it in a vise, then install a pin in the hole when they align. Install the tensioner, make sure the belt is good and pull the pin. You can also loosen the tensioner bolts to the end, put the belt on , and tighten the bolts back down. The first method is the best
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The belt is tensioned with a spring loaded pulley on an arm. To ID this part start the engine and watch the belt go around the pulleys, when you gun the engine the belt tensioner pulley will jitter to adjust the slack.
There is a tension arm with a pulley on it. This is called a tensioner. There is a shape on the arm for a 1/2" breaker bar or wrench to press the arm and allow slack.
There should be a diagram of the belt routing on a label under the hood.. Some people take digital pictures before they remove the old belt.
Every mechanic has preferences to the best way to do things. Just because you can move the tension arm does not mean it is the best pulley to end with. If you wrap the belt around the pulleys and save the last pulley with the easiest access, do that. Others would rather have a smooth last pulley to slide the belt over rather than a grooved pulley.
the tensioner is located directly below where the alternator bolts on. it is an automatic adjusting tensioner so you can't adjust it . you can only move the pulley back and forth to allow slack in the drive belt.
at front and going down from ac compressor... around and over water
pump pulley...under crank pulley...up and over tensioner pulley... up
near alternator but not over just yet... then under idler pulley.
with a 15 MM long handle ofset wrench attach to the center bolt on the
tensioner pulley and turn CW this will pull tensioner down. as this
happens you have the slack to pull belt over the alternator. now gently
release tension till the belt is snug. I have done this enough times to
find this to be the best and easiest way to work in this tight space. Hope this helps.
there is a belt tensioner pulley you must lever back to produce the slack needed to slip on the belt. There is a socket type cutout behind the pulley. put in the appropriate size ratchet handle or breaker bar and move tensioner arm back against the spring tension on the pulley. slip on belt making sure the grooves of the belt are in the pulleys correctly
You can put it all of the pulleys, including the "tensioner" pulley except one that is easy to reach. Then with a wrench or socket handle on the tensioner pulley, push or pull on it making slack in the belt giving you enough slack to slip it on the last pulley. The belt is then under the tension created by the spring loaded tensioner pulley.
Maza's auto-tensioner should have a to where you bolt the tensioner on (if it was removed) and it will have to where when you pull on the pulley potion toward the front it unlock into one of two positions...one of them will work to give enough slack to put the belt on and then it will click/flip back into the other position to provide tension. I hate the auto-tensioner but sometimes its handy.
Before installing the new belt, rotate the tensioner pulley until it's in it's "free arm" position. This will enable you to get the belt routed around the other pulleys saving the tensioner pulley for last. Once on, rotate the belt until the tensioner pulley takes up slack. It should lock into place once the engine is started. Best of luck and please post back either with any questions or to rate this solution. Thank you. Greg