Question about 1993 Chevrolet S-10 Blazer
Testing an not guessing as to what the problem is the way to find the problem . A number of thing's on you vehicle could cause this . Engine management system sensor's - MAP , TPS etc.... Hooking up a scan tool that can view engine sensor data to diagnose the problem should be done by a qualified technician .
Posted on Dec 17, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The best thing to do is to buy a Chilton,s repair manual. It has step by step procedures. You can get one at most auto parts stores. They coast anywhere from $10-$30 dollars.
Posted on Mar 16, 2009
Check the ECM for Codes to help you find out what's causing the problem. Here is a simple and easy way to check.
On board diagnostic (OBD) was designed on vehicles equipped with electronic fuel injection so you can generally retrieve the codes yourself. No need buying a scanner or running to any parts stores to check the Check Engine. This system is called obd1 and applies to most vehicles made before 1995 for domestics and 1993 on imports. In this article, I will discuss the methods used by domestic vehicle manufacturers on how to check the engine lights in their cars and Trucks.
For GM domestic vehicles made before 1995, the diagnostic connector is located under the dash panel by the driver side. To get the check Engine codes to flash in your dash panel, use a jumper wire or a paper clip and connect terminals A and B of the diagnostic connector. Turn your ignition key on with engine off and the codes should start to blink. All codes should start with code 12 which is one long flash followed by 2 short flashes. This code 12 means the diagnostic system is normal and will repeat itself continuously if there are no trouble codes. Otherwise, code 12 will flash 3 times before flashing the fault codes.
Counting the codes being flashed is easiest way to trouble shot problems in domestic vehicles and most of the codes can be erased or cleared by disconnecting the battery negative terminal for 1 minute and reconnect. Just make sure to check your service manual in case you have electronic equipment such as radio or clock that needs reprogramming in which battery disconnection is not recommended. Finally after performing repairs on the culprit code, always go for a road test to confirm if the problem is fixed.
Here is a link with the GM codes. http://chevythunder.com/199295_lt1_trouble_codes.htm
Good luck and hope this helps
Posted on May 02, 2009
Sounds like you have a bad shift solenoid. Not sure if the Chevys are a solenoid pack, or seperate, but it will need to be replaced.
Posted on Jun 02, 2009
Before spending several hundres on a fuel pump, I recommend doing a fuel pressure test. You can get a test gauge pretty cheap at a parts store. If the pump is junk, you raise the truck, lower the fuel tank, unplug the electronics from the pump at the top of the tank, then with a hammer and flat head scrwedrive, gently tap the lock ring in a counter clockwise direction until it pops off. Pull the pump assembly out and install the new one. Reverse directions to install.
Posted on Jun 02, 2009
SOURCE: Hestiation Problem
Carbon blocking the EGR movement and EGR passage tube.
vacuum leaks on intake manifold,
the air tube between the air filter.
intake manifold vacuum hose.
clean throttle plate with Berryman carburator cleaner
SEE sample picture HERE
Also remove carbon built up behind the EGR valve and the EGR passage tube.
Vacuum leak WILL offset the intended 14.7 to 1 air fuel ratio.
More un-metered air (leaks) will lean out the fuel mixture.
Use small amount of Berryman carb clearer at potential air leak area will help you identify trouble spot.
At idle,just spray and listen for the RPM surge.
The in-rush of carb clearer will increase the RPM on the motor.
Record the problem spot(s) and address it later.
EGR carbon built up require 2+ hours to clean from start to finish.
You will need a new EGR base gasket before your start.
Locate and remove the EGR valve after the vehicle is cool down.
Carefully record the connector and vacuum line (for older vehicle) location by drawing an easily to follow diagram.
Remove the EGR valve.
Inspect the location of the carbon built-up inside the valve and the EGR passage tube.
SOAK these areas with WD-40 spary.
You will need a small screwdriver,cloth hanger and lot of newspaper and time to get this cleaning done right.
RE-SOAK the carbon and let it sit for over-night will also help.
One the last round,pass a shop vacuum of the EGR valve and the passage pipe.
Install the new EGR gasket and connectors.
Allow the vehicle to warm up outdoor to burn up any remaining WD-40.
Take it for a test drive.
Please rate my answer if it's useful to you.
Posted on Dec 19, 2009
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