Belt ended up smoking then finally breaking apart. Put new belt tensioner due to belt was melted to the pulley. Installed new belt. All looked good, but when starting car, the belt started smoking and began to burn onto the belt tensioner pulley and the belt is extremely hot. What is causing the problem and how can I fix it? Thanks
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Re: Belt is burning onto the belt tensioner pulley
One of the pulleys is bad and is not spinning.You will need to remove the belt and spin each one to see which one is locked up or very difficult to turn. The only pully you will not be able to turn should the crankshaft pully all others should spin relatively easy.
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problems include failing ac pulley bearings , failing compressor , excessive gas in the ac
have an ac specialist check the gas pressures
before replacing the belt see if the ac pulley can be turned by hand with the ac off and then on
Focuses use an automatic belt tensioner which has no adjustment (as its spring loaded) if your belt is not tight enough replacement of the tensioner could be necessary..if you're asking due to a squealing problem check the pulley on the tensioner and the idler pulley..they are a common part to need changing
Not unless something is loose somewhere. If you had a belt break or slip off, you will need to replace the "belt tensioner". Once a belt tensioner has had a belt slip off, or break; it will damage it. It will never work properly again, and will need to be replaced. If you keep buying belts, every one will eventually slip off, or break, until you buy a new tensioner.
GoeffreyH is not correct. On this engine the water pump is run by a small, single, separate belt which cannot be adjusted by the alternator because it (and the water pump itself) are on the opposite end of the engine from the crank pulley and other accessories, such as alternator, A/C, etc. which are driven by the main serpentine belt. The water pump is driven by a pulley on the end of one camshaft. Your confusion stems from the change from the old system, in which a longer belt was used with a tensioner in the traditional fashion, and the new system on 2004 vans where the tensioner was eliminated and a 'stretch fit' belt was used. Stretch fit belts have a springy component (like a rubber band) and keep their own tension this way by being stretched a bit to fit over the pulleys then holding snug against them. The problem is that some parts books erroneously call for the old belt for vans which need the new one. So the first belt your mechanic got was longer (to fit over the extra tensioner pulley) and static (not stretchy). On these newer vans, you can still see the mounting boss where the tensioner would have gone, it's part of the castings so it's still there. That's why it looks like there's a place for a tensioner but like none was ever there. Both your observations are correct. The only thing you need to do now is make sure your new belt is the right one, that it's a stretch fit belt, so it maintains tension (otherwise the water pump pulley will eventually start to slip and spin too slowly and the van will overheat) and also that it's not TOO tight, which will put you out of another water pump. The correct belt, if it's from NAPA, would be 030250SF.
Hello,Locate the serpentine belt tensioner on the front of the engine.The tensioner is what keeps tension on the belt and keeps the belt from coming off.The tensioner will have a bolt head in the middle of it that a 15mm socket will fit STEP 2:Look on the hood base where the hood lock attaches to the base and see if there is a belt diagram.This diagram will give you the exact instruction for properly routing the belt across the pulleys.If there is no diagram there,you will need to write down the exact routing of the belt on the pulleys on a notepad STEP 3:Put the 15mm socket onto the ratchet and put the ratchet onto the bolt head on the belt tensioner. STEP 4:Turn the tensioner clockwise to relieve the tension on the belt and remove the belt from all of the pulleys STEPS 5:Remove the new serpentine belt the same way that the old one came off by following the belt routing diagram instruction.Do not put the belt across the tensioner until last.Keep in mind that the belt will only go on one way and be right. STEP 6:Put the ratchet with the 15mm socket back on the belt tensioner and rotate the tensioner clockwise to give you enough room to slide the new belt across the belt tensioner pulley.Slide the belt onto the belt tensioner pulley and release the belt tensioner.Look over the belt and double check to make sure that the belt is running across all of the pulleys correctly STEP 7:Crank the car and inspect that the belt is secure and is staying in the grooves on all of the pulleys.
Hello, this is an easy job. I like to remove the upper fan shroud to give me more room to work. TAKE A VERY GOOD LOOK at how the belt is routed, it looks simple but once it's off can be confusing. With a ratchet and socket or a box end wrench release the tension on the automatic belt tensioner. CAUTION don't let the wrench slip and bang your knuckles. With the tension released just remove the old belt and slowly release the tensioner. Don't just let it snap back. Place the new belt firmly and squarely in the grooves of the various pulleys and release tension on the tensioner again, then slip the belt around the final pulley and slowly release the tension again. I put the belt on the idler pulley last, (the smooth one).
I own a 2006 Corolla and can give the following advice. Begin by purchasing a quality replacement belt. I highly recommend the Goodyear Gatorback serpentine belt due to it's quality and unique ribbing designed to eliminate the high pitched chirps and squeals which commonly occur with the original equipment belt on these cars. You will need a 3/8 breaker bar with a 19mm socket and a piece of pipe at least 18" long to slip over the end of the breaker bar to provide additional leverage. This will be used to remove the tension on the belt for removal and installation. You'll also need a metric socket set to aid in removal of the plastic cover that sits on top of the engine. Start the process by removing the plastic cover using a ratchet and 10mm socket on the two acorn head nuts near the front of the cover. Then remove the two plastic push-in fasteners at the rear of the cover by gently prying in an upward direction. Removal of this cover gives more room to help you work the new belt around the pulleys. Make a diagram of the pulleys and belt routing as a reference to help you when installing the new belt. Find the belt tensioner (it looks like an arm with a small piston-like device attached to one end and a smooth faced pulley on the other end.) You will see what looks like two hex shaped bolt heads cast into the metal of the tensioner arm. Place the breaker bar with 19mm socket onto the upper hex casting so that the breaker bar handle points straight up. Slip the pipe over the handle of the breaker bar and pull toward the front of the car. This will relieve the tension and allow you to remove the belt from the alternator pulley. Once the belt is free set the breaker bar aside and work the belt off all the pulleys. Installing the new belt can be a little challenging and will be extremely difficult if you start in the wrong place. Although the new belt goes over the alternator pulley last, it is in fact where you should begin the installation. You'll notice that the top path of the belt goes from a large pulley at the rear of the engine straight to the alternator pulley at the front of the engine. What you want to do is put the belt on the alternator pulley and then begin routing the lower path of the belt around all the pulleys and the pulley on the tensioner arm until it is around everything except the large pulley at the rear of the engine. Then take a piece of stiff wire and bend it into a hook on both ends so that you can gently remove the belt from the alternator pulley and use the wire hook to hold it in line with the other pulleys while allowing enough slack to work it over the last large pulley in the back. I hook mine to a convenient hose located in line with the pulleys just below the alternator. I found that the extension pipe was handy to help nudge the belt onto the lower ribbed pulleys because I couldn't get my hand into the narrow space. Once you have the belt routed and properly positioned on all the pulleys use the breaker bar and extension pipe to again relieve the tension allowing you to slip the last loop of the belt over the alternator pulley. Take a flashlight and carefully examine the belt routing to make sure it is properly positioned on all the pulleys, especially the ribbed ones. Improper installation will cause the belt to jump off and/or damage itself. Once you are satisfied with the belt installation you can replace the plastic cover on the engine. Start the engine as a final check that everything is working properly and enjoy your new quiet belt. This looks like a complicated procedure but will take less than one hour and those that are mechanically inclined should be able to get it done in 30 minutes or less. Hope this helps you.