Question about 1989 Chevrolet Suburban

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I tighten up the tilt colomn on a 89 chevy truck, got it all back together execpt the lock plate. cant get the plate to go down further enough to put the retainer ring on. please help.

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  • Chevrolet Master
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Cut yourself a piece of wood, like a broomstick, about 16 inches long and place it against the lock plate. Put your shoulder against the other end and you should be able to push the plate down and still have your hands free to put the retainer clip on. Hope this helps.

Posted on Jul 20, 2010

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I am having trouble reinstalling my steering wheel pressure plate after having replaced the ignition,,, any suggestions?


Steering wheel pressure plate? Are you talking about the metal plate with notch's cut out all the way around the edge? If so, that would be the steering column lock plate. If the parts below it are not installed properly, it will not allow itself to seat properly. It also will only go in one way due to the splines on the steering shaft and on the inside of the hole in the center of the plate. You will also need a special tool that applies even pressure to push the plate down to compress the spring so that you can put the retaining clip on. You should also have the ignition lock turned to the run position so that the rod or pin isn't trying to push the plate back up. Hope we're talking about the same thing here.

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I had to replace the horn cancelling switch on my 1986 Chevy truck. No tilt. I got the wheel and locking ring off, replaced the part and now I can't get the lock ring back on all the way. I've got...


Hi, been there, done that--the likely cause is the bearing slipping out the other end of the column. Go in the engine compartment and push it back in and have someone hold it in while you compress the plate spring.

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I disassemled the tilt steering wheel to my 1990 Chevy Suburban because the tilt was loose. The steering wheel moved side to side at the tilt location which was right above the gear shift lever bowl. I...


You will have to remove the lock plate and the turn signal plastic assembly, from inside the column housing, in order to access and tighten up the three hex screws that have come loose, allowing the tilt column to move side to side. I have done this numerous times, in the mid 90's, when the 80's GM tilt columns started to come loose with age. The hardest part is getting that lock plate off, and replacing it, if you don't have a lock plate puller, so make sure you have one or else get one, as it will save you lots of time and fustration. Good luck.

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I got a 89 cadalac deville i tore down the stering colum and can'


if u got the lever that goes to the turn signal then there are three screws for the blinker control then u put the spring in then u put in the gyro for the horn and the lockplate go in together u will prob need a compressor or someone really strong to help put in the clip that holds it in. then there is a plastic cover over the pin then a rubber spacer then the streering wheel itself then the lever for the telescoping wheel and a strange bolt with a slotted plate on the end remember to tighten it almost all the way the put the 3 screw in that hold them together so that u still have room to move it to the left and lock it in place when the horn cover is on hope that helps i dont have and pics i guess i could draw one but i have taken both of my 89 devills wheels off and it is no easy task getting it back on

Feb 22, 2010 | 1989 Cadillac Sedan DeVille

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Very loose steering coulum on 1993 chevy truck can it just be tightened


There is a lower support and an upper support. Each support has 2 bolts. You will need to remove the driver's side knee bolster and the reinforcement plate behind it to access the support bolts. WARNING: always use extreme caution when working in the vicinity of airbags, if you aren't fully confident of proper safety procedures you could seriously injure yourself.

Jan 02, 2010 | 2000 Chevrolet Silverado

1 Answer

My steering wheel column wigls at the tilt part how do i fix it


    If your third gen is NOT air bag equipped, just follow the blue NUMBERED steps only!
    If you have a 90-92 F-Body equipped with an air bag, skip steps 1 and 2 and go to step A in red letters just below step 2!
  1. Remove steering wheel horn button and assocated wiring.
  2. Remove steering wheel nut clip and nut then using a steering wheel puller, pull off the steering wheel.
    1. Disconnect battery
    2. Remove both lower under dash panels.
    3. Remove SIR (airbag) fuse from fuse panel. (this is overkill since you disconnected the battery but gm recommends it)
    4. Disconect the big yellow wire with the yellow SIR tag going to the steering column. (there will be a saftey clip you have to remove before unplugging the connector)
    5. Disconnect the smaller 2 connector wire that is right beside the yellow SIR connector. (this usually has a orange cover around the wires on the steering column side)
    6. Remove the airbag from the column by unscrewing the 4 torx screws on the back side of the steering wheel. (these screws will not come out of the wheel since they have retaining devices on them. Also back these screws off a little at a time simultaneously or you will put the airbag in a bind.)
    7. Disconnect SIR connector on the airbag at the steering column (make sure to remove the blue saftey clip first)
    8. Set airbag aside. (carry it with the finished side facing away from you and place on a smooth surface face up.)
    9. Remove steering wheel with common steering wheel puller.
    10. Once steering wheel is removed you will see the SIR sensor underneath. Remove this by using lock ring pliers to remove the retainer)
    11. Slide the SIR sensor out (the wire will pull out enough to clear the column and set aside but still be connected to the column)
      From this point you will remove the lockplate at step 3 below (in blue letters). Things should be pretty much exactly the same.

  3. Remove the lock plate cover
  4. Remove lock plate with lock plate depressing tool (remove C-clip when lock plate is depressed
  5. Remove the loose parts (i'm not sure what they're called but they just slip off)
  6. Remove the hazard light button.
  7. Remove 3 phillips screws that hold the turn signal mechanical switches (you may have to flip the turn signal to the left to get to the bottom screw.)
  8. Remove the vanity plate under neath the dash to get to the wiring at the base of the steering column (this is above the driver's feet)
  9. Pull on the turn signal wires to get some slack and pull it over the middle spindle thing.
  10. Remove the ignition cylinder hold down pin (it's smaller than a t-10 torx, not sure what number) and pull the ignition cylinder out.
  11. Remove 3 torx bolts (I think #15 or 20) Be careful not to drop any of these bolts or screws into the steering column.. they're hard to get back out..
  12. Unscrew the tilt steering lever
  13. Remove the steering column collar. This is kinda tricky and you gotta pull this over that center spindle. Takes some stretching of the wires to get it to pull over it but it's do-able.
  14. Now there's a circular thing under the spindle, using a big philips screw driver, push it down and turn it. Careful cause there's a spring under it. release the spring and remove it.
  15. Now you need a tilt steering pin remover. These things are hard to find.. I know the MAC man and the Snap-on man have them and those are the only two I know of that have them. (I borrowed a snap-on one from a mechanic at a shop I used to work at. You can use a screw and thread it and then pull on it with pliers but that's a pain in the ****.. I've heard one guy use a dent puller and it worked fine.
  16. When you pull the pins out the tilt head will move and you should be able to pull it out towards you some. (you might have to put the tilt steering lever back in to release the cogs inside the column)
  17. There are four inverse torx (size E8) bolts in there. Just tighten the heck out of them.. they'll stay.. Don't take them out cause there's a plate on the other end. If you pull out the bolt to loctite it, the plate will fall off and you'll have to pull the whole column to get the plate back in. If you've got the steering column out of the car, then I guess this isn't an issue but there isn't a need. My column has stayed tight for a year now.

Installation:
Once they're tightened up, installation is in reverse order. Getting the tilt part of the column back on is kind of tricky too but with that spring out (step 14), it's not too bad.. I did it with the spring still installed.. Be careful when you put the collar back on, you don't want to bend the piece that sits on the left side of the column that's attached to the ignition cylinder. if you bend it, you may not be able to turn the key or the car may not statr when the column is put together. If it does get bent or look bent, you can bend it back by hand.
When you're putting the high beam linkage back on, make sure that the end metal rod fits into the switch under the steering column and then put grease on the steering column piece to hold it in place as you put the collar back on. then it's just bolts and screws and you're set.
It took me 2 tries to get it right.. First time, I didn't tighten the 4 bolts down tight enough and it got lose again quick. You might also want to loctite the screw that holds the turn signal lever in place. That likes to get loose and then you have to take off the steering wheel and lock plate to tighten it.
If you have any questions, let me know..

Oct 28, 2009 | GMC K1500 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

96 chevy monte carlo 3.1 wont start


check to see if the wire is broken for the passlock/passkey system in the ignition lock cylinder, its common for the copper wire to seperate inside the insulation, when you tilt the column it could have been pushing the wires together enough to touch inside the insulation

Jun 18, 2009 | 1999 Chevrolet Monte Carlo

1 Answer

Steering colomn real loose i have tilt steering its real loose where the joint is cant figure out how to get at it to fix


I had a 1992 chevy van There are 3 or 4 small bolts way down in the steering column you have to remove the steering wheel and blinker assembly with a long extesion and racket tighten all the bolts. You need to do it soon if you have the same problem or the steering wheel will come off if the bolts come all the way out

Mar 25, 2009 | 1993 Chevrolet K1500

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Tilt steering play


you need a new steering column,,,,go to a salvage and get one with a key but there is no fixing the old one,,,a used one should run about 75.00 and is not hard to put in

Jan 04, 2009 | 1988 Chevrolet K1500

1 Answer

Steering hard


Hi,

This is the most common problem with this type of steering column and it becomes loose by using the steering wheel to get in and out of the car. The answer here is general and there will be some slight differences as it pertains to your car.
I have been asked where to get a good blow up drawing of the column and the problem is that even the service manuals don't tell you all you need to know.
You will need to purchase or rent at a parts store a steering wheel puller. A lock plate compression tool and a pivot pin removal tool.

Good luck!

I don't know of a good blow up. Commonly factory service manuals will have you take apart things that are not supposed to come apart. The bearings are most likely not the problem but the 4 yoke bolts are. They commonly come loose by grabbing the steering wheel to get in.
Remove the horn pad (7 mm or 9/32 either will work on the back of the steering wheel. Push downward on cancel cam tower and turn counter clockwise. The horn wire is now disconnected. Remove 13/16 steering wheel nut. Index marks may be hard to see. Take a screwdriver and put on upper shaft and tap. Put adjoining mark on wheel if these factory marks can't be seen. It is for reassembly and so that the steering wheel is put on the way it was taken off. Never use a hammer on the upper shaft to remove steering wheel!Install puller using 2(2) 5/16x 16 x 3 bolts. Draw the wheel off. Install rented lock plate removal tool. Note the position for reassembly. Compress lock plate down and remove snap ring by holding one side with a flat blade screwdriver. Insert an ice pick awl at the ring opening and bring upward. Remove lock plate. Take note for reassembly that lock plate only fits one way om the splines. There is a matching broach (Tooth missing on lock plate and spline missing on shaft. Pull off cancel cam and upper shaft spring. Take a small Phillips and push in on the 4 way flasher and unscrew. Hold together while unscrewing so it does not fall apart on you. Take a Phillips and remove the turn signal screws and the turn signal pivot. Pay attention to how this pivot slides in the groove of the wiper switch.

Here comes the fun part____


Remove the screws from the panel under the steering column.--- The shift bowl is located where you shift the transmission. Below the bowl leading under the dash is the lower shift bowl shroud. On the passenger side of the shift bowl under the dash will be a clip and string. Remove the clip by pulling it off the lower bowl shroud. You are doing this so you don't wreck the PRNDL.
Under the dash remove the (2) 9/16 nuts that hold the steering column bracket on. Remove the (4)1/2" bolts that hold the bracket to the column. Underneath the dash on the passenger side of the steering column will be a plastic sleeve holding the wiring. Pull away from column and the downward. Don't worry about the gray thin shroud. That's just for the cruise wire which when putting back together can be installed in the main black plastic shroud.
Push upward on turn signal wiring from its column bracket. You may no have to disconnect any wiring. Go back to top of steering column. Remove (3) #2 Phillips screws. Make sure keys are not in ignition lock. Take hook tool and grab edge of key buzzer and pull upward. Steel retainer spring will fall out for key buzzer when you remove upper cover. Watch for it. Its about an inch long, doubled up piece of black spring steel. Set to side when you get that far. Next remove the ignition lock cylinder by inserting a screwdriver into the clip at the rear of the lock inside the steering column. Pull lock out. Pull upper cover upward and let hang by wiring. You will find at the tilt lever there is another part to the upper cover. Look for a piece of white plastic with a circular end that slides on the inside of the cover (left side). This is called the high beam actuator. Leave the tilt lever and end cap attached. Tilt the bearing housing to full upward tilt. Insert a Phillips into the square hole in the tilt spring retainer cap. Push down and turn counter clockwise. Grab spring and retainer and remove.
Insert pivot pin tool on passenger side of column. Now, once you have screwed the tool into the pivot pin, do not over tighten. Hold the screw head with 3/8 wrench. Use ½ open end to draw nut down. If it seems like the pin is seized tilt the column up and down a couple of times. Usually there is not a problem, but trust me, you don't want to break the puller off in the pivot pin. Repeat on left side. Hold your foot on the brake. Pull on tilt lever while with tilting in upward position, go a little left and remove housing. The ignition actuator rod will become disconnected with the rack. The rack has a loop on one end and teeth on the other. Set it to the side. Do not let the upper shaft fall downward. It could fall off or the little shaft inside could fall out. You will see (4) inverted torx bolts. Some people will remove one at a time and install locktite. I have never done this and have never had one come back. Its up to you. If you intend to use the steering wheel for getting in and out of the car you may want to use locktite.
Now, you do not need a special socket here. Use a ¼ nut driver with both hands and tighten. Then use a vice grips, wrench, whatever you can to tighten these bolts. They are tight enough when the socket starts to slip. Do not tighten any tighter than this. To install the rack insert a screwdriver into the slot of the geared sector on the left side of the bearing housing. Rotate sector far enough where you can slide the rack in. You need to line up the big tooth in the sector to the big tooth opening in the rack. Once this is done pull the spring towards you either with your fingers or needle nose and insert spring into slot on sector. Take the ignition actuator rod on the left side of the column and pull until dash lights come on. Make sure it is set into the groove. Grab the bearing housing with both hands. As you are getting close to the steering column you need to take the loop from the rack and put it over the end of the ignition actuator rod. The high beam actuator rod that is bent outward goes through the big hole on the left and let it just hang. Once looped around pull on tilt lever and install bearing housing slightly tilting up and down once attached. Insert pivot pin. Insert other pivot pin. Insert bearing race, retainer and spring on upper shaft. Hold the spring downward with one hand and tilt the column up and down with other hand. This helps center the race and it also checks the tilt. Next, take a needle nose and turn lock shaft on right side of bearing housing. Engine should start. Put shaft in lock position. Hold the spring on the upper shaft while tapping on pivot pins till flush. Put in full upper tilt and install tilt spring. Push downward and push cap with screwdriver downward and turn clock wise till seated.
Under dash on driver's side of column you will see high beam switch. The rod fits in the center of this switch. Back at the column to make sure the high beams work, push on the rod. You will hear a clicking. Take the high beam actuator and insert it into the groove in the cover. Make sure circular end is facing towards the lever. You need to slide this actuator all the way forward. When looking down the rounded end should be facing downward towards the floor. You will see where this cover rests on the bearing housing. Hold cover up against housing by the tilt lever. With the other hand insert the upper cover back on the column. As you are doing all this pull on the wiring from under column. Line up lock pin in cover. Take an awl to line up high beam actuator with cover. Cover will lie down on column once lined up. Hold cover downward and pull back towards you the turn signal lever to make sure high beam switch works. Pull wires at bottom of column gently accept for turn signal. Inert three # 50 torx. Insert ignition lock cylinder and retaining screw. Take awl and push button up from lock cylinder from key buzzer hole. Insert key buzzer spring to key buzzer. Squeeze and insert into hole and push down. Install turn signal switch and pull wires at bottom of column gently where turn signal switch lines up. Insert three screws. Line up ball from turn signal pivot into wiper switch groove, line up with t/s hole and insert screw. This screw has a wide head.
Install 4 way flasher. Install cancel cam as you marked it for disassembly. Install lock plate. Wheel has to be lined up with the index marks. Install. Insert horn wire into cancel cam tower and press down on cap and turn clockwise. Install horn pad. Under dash install plastic wiring shroud. Reinstall t/s connector on column. Install bracket. Attach steering column to dash. Hold the brake. Put trans in neutral. Pull on string and install clip so PRNDL says neutral. Put trans in PARK. Start engine. Check PRNDL when putting in drive. You may have to adjust clip's position to get this lined up. Install lower dash.


Jun 18, 2008 | 1994 Chevrolet Caprice Classic

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