1996 LS400. Can I drop oil pan without removing engine?
I have a 1996 LS400 (about 175,000 miles) with a loud tapping that I have been told by the dealer is likely a connecting rod. I am also told that the cost to install a used engineis about 4 or 5 K. I repeat this is a 1996. I'd like to drop the oil pan, identify the sloppy rod, replace the bearing, and pray that it's not the piston pin. If that fails I will junk the car. My question is can I drop the oil pan without removing the engine?
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Do that one or get that done on a lift. If not.... drain the oil & filter, every drop. In a gentle sequence loosen remove every other oil pan bolt . Next loosen, don't remove, the rest of the & slowly take out 1 fm the ft 1 fm the rear, 1 fm the side & keep going until they are all loosen enough to totally remove. The pan may fall by its own weight, if not, a few taps with no bolts will cause it to drop. Work it off around the oil pump & float, remove the gasket when the pan is down clean the engine block of gasket & oil & reinstall the new gasket. I'm not saying your gasket isn't leaking, but I've had many requests to replace pan gaskets & the front or rear seal is leaking. Besides the fact without a lift, power tools & an oil drain, this one is a rough one. Have it Done! Good luck
Hello Harold, You could have a worn out oil pump or worn out cam bearings. I had the same problem with mine and found out that there were particles in the oil pan. After driving for 15 miles the particles would clog the screen in the oil pump pick up tube. The oil pressure would drop to 10 pounds. I could shut off the engine for 30 minutes, start it up and had full oil pressure until I drove it again for another 15 miles. I thought I going crazy. I could not remove the oil pan without removing the engine. I drained the oil, installed the oil drain plug and added a couple gallons of Berryman B-12 carburetor cleaner to the oil fill hole in the valve cover. I let the carburetor cleaner soak into the pick up tube screen for an hour. I DID NOT start the engine but I DID crank the engine with the kill switch OFF to get the cleaner into the oil pump itself. I drained the carburetor cleaner out of the oil pan, added new oil, removed the oil filter and cranked the engine with the kill switch OFF again until I got clean oil through the oil filter housing. I screwed on a new oil filter and fired her up. Problem was solved and never came back. I hope you have as good of luck as I had. If your oil pan can be removed easily, it would be best to replace the oil pump with a new one.
You will have to pull the engine unless you can remove the pan and have room to work. It is a real time and work saver if you can do it without removing the engine, the crank only needs to drop a tiny bit and can be done without removing the tranny.Then you can remove the rear main bearing cap and loosen all the others without removing them so you can drop the crankshaft just a little bit. then you can CAREFULLY use a punch and tap the upper half of the seal on one side so it slips around the crank until you can remove it from the block. CAUTION: DO NOT NICK OR SCRATCH THE CRANK SURFACE IN ANY WAY. Then, apply oil or grease to the lip (the part that rubs against the crank) of the new seal and carefully install the new upper half and push it into place with your fingers. then tap gently until it is seated.Take note which way the lip of the seal is pointed and install the new one the same direction. Repeat with the lower cap and replace the cap,,,,Make sure all parts are clean and oiled, tighten and torque all the caps to specs. replace oil pump and anything else you had to remove, install the pan. Reinstall engine if you had to remove it, add oil.
I was told it's about a 3 hour job to change the oil pan gasket (on a '95 Regal
w/3800 ). It says you must disconnect the power
steering lines (because they run along the frame by the oil pan and get in the
way), drop the subframe, and raise the engine to get the oil pan off. good-day ! thats GM for ya!! lol, The frame is in your way and the only way to get it out is to move the frame.
Right off, I know you won't like my answer but in reality, you do need to remove the pan, inspect the pump pickup screen, the pump gears and end plate (or just replace the pump) and inspect the engine bearings (remove lower caps, use plasitgage to check clearances, replace and re-torque bolts). I'm assuming you have a low gauge reading (or oil light on), or, the engine is tapping or knocking. You need to verify the actual oil pressure by installing a mechanical pressure gauge (yours is electro-mechanical). If actual pressure hot is 15psi or lower at idle, then the pan needs to come off and you need to find out the reason. Without removing the pan, only thing you could try would be to get five quarts of engine flush, disable the ignition so the engine does not start, crank it over for about thirty seconds and then let it sit about a week. Then, drain the pan and add new oil and perhaps some marvel oil along with it. I'd be concerned about any undissolved carbon though as it can actually plug up the system worse than before. (why pan removal is better).
Did you try topping it off with oil and seeing if the noise goes away? If so, it sounds like you may have some internal engine damage, and without taking it apart, it is difficult to say exactly what is wrong without listening to it myself. I would say it's probably time for an engine rebuild if the oil doesn't clear this tapping sound up.
lifters noisy,lots of miles on engine?as oil pressure gets higher and engine warms up(everything expands a little and quietens a little)it gets better,try fresh oil thats thicker for worn engines,and or check tappets(valve adjustment)if its applicable to this engine