Question about 1990 Jeep Wrangler
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Bleeder screw should be somewhere on the slave cylinder, generally somewhere above the centerline of the unit. (unless someone snapped it off. If that's the case, sometimes you can drill it out, but this takes a lot of skill mixed with some luck. (You can't damage the threads at all, and if you go too deep you will damage the sealing surface). Therefore better to replace it.
Posted on Jan 02, 2009
The clutch slave cylinder on this model is located inside the transmission bell housing. You would have to pull the tranny to see it.
Bleeding the slave cylinder is a fairly simple process.
Underneath the vehicle on the driver side you will see two hydraulic lines going into the transmission where the tranny connects to the engine. If you have trouble locating just follow the hydraulic line from the master cylinder on the firewall.
One of these lines is actually sticking out of the tranny and has a bleeder valve on the end.
You will need a 9/16 box end wrench and a 5/16 or 1/4 inch box end wrench and someone with you to press the clutch pedal while you are under the vehicle.
1. Top off the master cylinder with clean brake fluid. Also, MAKE SURE you keep the fluid level in the master cylinder topped off during this process. You may need to have a second helper to take care of this so you don't have to keep climbing out from underneath.
2.Hold the line with the 9/16 and loosen the bleeder valve a couple turns or until fluid begins to drain. Have someone SLOWLY depress the clutch pedal to the floor and hold it down to the floor until you tighten the bleeder valve back up. MAKE SURE YOU ARE OUT OF THE WAY OF THE SQUIRTING FLUID WHEN THE PEDAL IS DEPRESSED!!
3. Once you are sure the valve is tight, have them pump the clutch pedal a couple times . Repeat step two until the pedal has a full stroke.
Posted on Jan 23, 2009
MNfisherman <<< is 100% wrong! There is NO cable to adjust...It is controlled by a hydraulic clutch system...try putting fluid in the reservoir...
Posted on Sep 10, 2009
caster is adjusted at the rear of the lower control arms. Camber is fixed and cannot be adjusted by normal means (though special off-set ball joints are available to do that) Toe in is adjusted by turning the sleeves in or out on the tie rod ends. None of this should be done at home though crude adjustments can be made in order to get the front end reasonably straight. Adjustments are made on an alignment machine that allows precise adjustments to all you mentioned as well as front/rear tracking.
Posted on Mar 12, 2010
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