Question about 2002 Chevrolet Suburban 2500
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Hi: On the back of the heater control unit are vacuum lines, make sure plug is firmly attached. FIRST though check if vehicle does not go into 4WD high. If not then you probably have a vacuum problem under the hood as vacuum controls heater, 4WD and other functions. Check to make sure vacuum lines under the hood are all attached starting with the vacuum pod (located in front L fender by brake module.) and chasing them under the hood. If you have vacuum then check heater control module and lastly heater door vacuum actuators. Hope this helps.
Posted on Feb 26, 2009
SOURCE: no floor heat
Many vehicles have a vacuum actuated valve (or flap) internal to the console vent plumbing. The vaccum line going to this valve/vac solenoid may be bad, unhooked or not functioning. In GM products, IIRC, the vac lines inside the vehicle are made of hard plastic, off-white in color (some have a slight green tinge) and are not easily flexible.
Check down under the dash where the floor output is and see if you see some of the plumbing of which I write. Then check to see if there are any loose lines, etc.
Posted on Mar 04, 2009
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May 28, 2014 | 1994 Chevrolet Suburban
Jan 16, 2014 | 1994 GMC Suburban
There are two motor controlled doors that control air flow for your heating/cooling system. These doors are located in the A/C ductwork under the right side of the dash. When you turn off the ignition, the doors close through the action of the small electric motor and gears is an attached control box. The knocking sound that you hear is a gear slipping in the control box as the control motor continues to run after the air door has been closed. I have no idea why the door motor continues to run. The solution for me with my 94 burb was to disconnect the electrical lead to the control box. If you have lots of patience and very small hands you may be able to replace the offending module. However the root cause seems to be the door motor continuing to run.
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