Question about 2005 Kia Amanti

2 Answers

Kept stalling and dying--now it won't start

I bought the car in 1/10 and a couple months later it stalled and died after being in stop and go traffic for about 1 1/2 hours. It started again, and I was able to get it a few blocks to a Brakes Plus. The test drove it the next morning and it was fine. Then in May, after a day of a lot of in-city driving with the a/c it died. It started, and I drive a few minutes before it died again. I waited 20 minutes, and was able to get it to an apt parking lot. I waited about 1 hour, and then it was fine. Again I took it to a shop, but they drove it again--no problems.
A couple of weeks ago, after in-city driving with a/c on, the car died again. Again, I waited 20 to 30 minutes and it was OK.
During any of these incidents, it never indicated that it was overheating.
Then last week, I got into my car (in my garage) and it wouldn't start. Just one click, then nothing.
I have also noticed that since I've had the car, the engine seems to put off a lot of heat. After driving awhile, the hood of the car is really, really warm. Warmer than my Camry ever got. I don't know if that is a symptom of whatever is wrong with it, but I thought I'd mention it anyway.
Diagnostics tests have not been run on it since I bought it in January.
Any ideas on what could be wrong?
Linda

Posted by on

  • hipjoint Jul 19, 2010

    During the following incidents, the temp gauge never indicated that the care was overheating.
    I bought the car in 1/10 and a couple months later it stalled and died after being in stop and go traffic for about 1 1/2 hours. It started again, and I was able to get it a few blocks to a Brakes Plus. The test drove it the next morning and it was fine. Then in May, after a day of a lot of in-city driving with the a/c it died. It started, and I drive a few minutes before it died again. I waited 20 minutes, and was able to get it to an apt parking lot. I waited about 1 hour, and then it was fine. Again I took it to a shop, but they drove it again--no problems.
    A couple of weeks ago, after in-city driving with a/c on, the car died again. Again, I waited 20 to 30 minutes and it was OK.
    Then last week, I got into my car (in my garage) and it wouldn't start. Just one click, then nothing.
    I have also noticed that since I've had the car, the engine seems to put off a lot of heat. After driving awhile, the hood of the car is really, really warm. Warmer than my Camry ever got. I don't know if that is a symptom of whatever is wrong with it, but I thought I'd mention it anyway.
    Diagnostics tests have not been run on it since I bought it in January.
    Any ideas on what could be wrong?
    Linda

  • hipjoint Jul 20, 2010

    Thank you. I really appreciate this information.

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U need to get this to the dealer and have the OBD2 electronic engine control computer tested for fault codes, also the dealer can see if any factory service bulletins exist in the KIA data base for this problem, don't have anyone but the dealer work on this, you can void the warranty and parts are very expensive for this car

Posted on Jul 19, 2010

  • hipjoint Jul 20, 2010

    Oh geez, I was afraid of that. Actually, the warranty has already expired. Can you give me any idea what kind of costs might be involved?


    Thanks.
    Linda

  • Marvin
    Marvin Jul 20, 2010

    I can't estimate the cost to repair because the cause of the problem has not been determined yet, that takes diagnostic time and electronic system testing by the dealer (don't waste your money on an outside shop, they just don't have the special tools to diagnose this), the dealer will want 1.5 hours to look into the problem, if they can fix it in that amount of time you may get off with a $150-$250 repair bill. Sorry i can't be more specific.

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There are few possibilities that you will have to check.there are few things which can make your car engine hot:--
Problems That Cause a Car Engine to Run Hot:--
Low Coolant If there is a leak in the system that allows coolant to escape, there will not be enough coolant to absorb the excess engine heat. Coolant loss can occur through holes in the radiator or radiator hoses, a faulty radiator cap, a leaking water pump  damaged heater core or a blown head gasket.Improper water-coolant mix can also contribute to coolant loss. Fan Problems The fan draws air through the radiator when the car is at rest, or moving slowly. Some fans are driven by a belt and pulley system. If the belt breaks, comes off or becomes too loose, the fan, and in many cases the water pump as well, will stop spinning. This will cause the engine to overheat very quickly.Engine driven fans generally also have clutches that cause the fan to idle when the engine is cool, and spin only when the engine is warm. A faulty fan clutch can also cause an engine to run hot. ·  Some cars also have electric fans. Problems with the fan motor, or the thermostat that turns the fan on and off can result in overheating.
Radiator Problems The radiator must be clean and free of obstruction inside and out for the system to work properly. During the lifetime of a vehicle, scale and deposits can build up on the inside of the radiator, and block or reduce the flow of coolant. Alternately, blockage of the radiator cooling vanes will limit airflow through the radiator. This can be caused by bent vanes or obstructions. Even a heavy build up of dead insects can result in decreased air flow and high engine temperatures. Clogging, either internally or externally, will cause an engine to run hot. Thermostat The thermostat controls the waterflow through the engine. It is not uncommon for this device to fail in cars that are a few years old. A thermostat stuck in the closed position, or that does not open fully, will cause rapid heat buildup. Engine Problems Not every overheating problem is directly related to the cooling system. A blown head gasket can force exhaust gasses into the coolant, and cause it to heat up. Likewise, a faulty oil pump or low oil level can result in increased motor friction and heating.Less commonly, overly-advanced ignition timing or a lean fuel-air ratio can lead to knock, which will result in a hot engine.
With meter the voltage for each part will show exact 12 volts.if less then 12 volt or no voltage then that particular part has to be checked. also as you mentioned that no diagnostic test have been performed.you can get it done for more.because once the test is done you can get the error codes for the faulty or weak parts causing this problems.So you can replace that part as per the error codes retrieved.
then its advisable to get car scanned at diagnosis center to get error codes, At diagnosis center you will receive the error code.As per the error code it will detect the exact faulty part in the car due to which the problem is occurring.For more help :--- at www.autozone.com its absolutely free to get car scanned.
Thanks. keep updated for any more query.you can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

Posted on Jul 17, 2010

  • hipjoint Jul 17, 2010

    Well, the car isn't technically overheating. The temp indicator shows it's in the normal range. I just noticed that the engine itself seems quite warm. I don't understand how a car can be "overheating," and yet not show on the temp indicator that it is...unless of course the temp gauge is broken.


    A friend had mentioned the possibility of the starter motor, but because it did restart most of the time, I didn't think that was likely.



    Linda

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