Question about 2003 Chrysler Town & Country

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2003 Chrysler Town and Country will not turn over. Battery at 12.5 volts with no drop in voltage when key turned to start position, but I do hear a faint click sound. All lights, windows, guages appear to be working fine.

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  • jim3370 Jul 17, 2010

    Had already cleaned the posts and terminals, because I had disconnected the battery hoping that it might reset something I don't know about. There is a starter relay in the underhood fuse box, but there are 4 more in there with the same P/N. I switched the starter relay with the accessory relay. Both still worked. The clicking sound is apparently coming from these relays, therefore I don't believe the relay is the problem. Put the battery on the charger for about 4 hours. Started out drawing only about 2 amps, and eventually went to 0. Lights are good, blower motor good, radio, everything works as should. Anyone know where the neutral switch is on this vehicle?

  • bobnorman76 Jul 20, 2010

    I seem to be having the same problem. Does your fuel pump come on (faint humming or hissing sound?) when you turn the key? Mine does not. I have the same clicking in relay. My wife said the van turned over and started twice but shut off right away. Then the starter would not crank and fuel pump would not run. Same problem?

  • jim3370 Jul 20, 2010

    I don't hear the fuel pump either. I jumped the starter and it turns over, so I know that its not the starter or solenoid. As I said before, I don't believe it's the starter relay, as I've swapped them out with no change. I think there is a "transmission range sensor" inside the transmission, but moving the shift lever to different positions has no effect either. Still, it could be the problem I guess. I've read that there are components in the "integrated power module" such as the ignition switch output and starter relay control that could be malfunctioning. It could be the ignition switch itself.

    Based on what I've read, here is what I'm trying next: There is a yellow wire coming from the ignition switch that should have power when the switch is turned to the start position. I will check that from under the dash, right out of the ignition switch. If no power, then I might suspect the switch. If there is, then there should also be current at terminal 86, and through a dark green/orange wire to terminal 85 of the starter motor relay. (Terminal numbers are marked on the bottom of the relay) If you pull the relay half way out of its socket, you can get a test light or volt meter on the terminals to see if there is current. If no current, the problem must be between the ignition switch and the starter relay. If current is present at terminals 85 and 86, then there should also be current present at terminal 87, which goes to the starter. I don't know if there are any replaceable components here, so if someone knows the answer, please let us know.

    As far as the fuel pump, it should be activated when the ignition switch is in the run position. I don't have the terminal numbers for the ignition switch, but there are only 5 terminals, ACC, LOCK, OFF, RUN and START. Using a test light and turning the key to the different positions, you should be able to determine which wire does what. This might also help verify that the ignition switch is working properly.

    This is what I'm doing based on what I've been able to find out. No promises, no guarantees, just my own logic. Hope it helps.

  • jim3370 Aug 19, 2010

    Completed the tests described in my comments of July 20. Everything checked out, by that I mean the ignition switch, relays, etc. There was just no current being sent to the starter circuit. So, I basically gave up and took it to a local repair shop. 3 hours of diagnosis later, they determined it to be the ECM or as some call it the PCM (Electronic Control Module or Power Control Module) that needs to be replaced. The ECM runs about $600 through a dealer, plus programming and remove and replace labor. However, I found a couple of places in Florida on the internet where you can get one for under $300. All they need is the vehicle VIN#, mileage and the part number of the ECM. The p/n starts with a P and should be on the module. I ordered the ECM myself to save the repair shop markup, and will take it to the repair shop for them to install. The ECM hasn't come in yet, but will post the outcome when it does.

  • jim3370 Aug 25, 2010

    After eliminating all other possible problems such as the battery, connections, starter and relay, ignition switch, etc, it turned out that the problem was in the ECM itself. A remanufactured module was purchased from a company in Florida for $269 $20 shipping. Van is now up and running.

  • liz_jason201
    liz_jason201 Jul 05, 2012

    jim3370 can you tell me the company where you purchased the ECM from? I'm having the same problem and don't want to pay $600 for the part. Thank you.

  • Laura Stanelle
    Laura Stanelle Mar 05, 2014

    i think i got the same problem with my 2005 town an country can u give me name to company also?



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When you turn the switch over, does the lights dim or flicker? If that's the case then the battery don't have the power it needs to turn the engine over, so it could be the cables and post need cleaning, or the solenoid for the starter is bad. The description you give with the clicking sound, gives me the thought of starter solenoid, but always do the easiest and cheapest. "clean those terminals and post first"

Posted on Jul 16, 2010

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Did you ever get this problem fixed because I have the same issue with my van. I don't want to keep trying things because it gets expensive wondering what you have done and what worked. Thanks.

Posted on Aug 19, 2010

  • jeff campbell Oct 09, 2011

    i did the same thing as jim did.gota remanned PCM/ECM,it started.let it set for 10 day's,it started an i drove 5 miles to get gas,left it running an when i came back outa station,it had died.?? what the heck?still won't turn the starter waht?thx-jeff


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Change the pcm

Posted on Oct 23, 2012

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