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rear wheel brakes operate at different pressures because of the proportioning valve in the lines
you are correct that failing brake hoses can fail internally and lock the brakes on but I feel that that is not your problem
This is how disc brakes work
There is no check valve in the master cylinder as there is in a car with drum brakes so any fluid captured by pedal ( the exception here is if the car has read drum brakes in which case that section of the master cylinder will have a check valve )movement is pushed into the calipers and applies the brakes
Now on releasing the pedal , that fluid is allowed to return to the reservoir by a compensating port in the master cylinder
That port blocks up and the disc brakes remain on.
heat build up from the brake pads expands the fluid and so pushes the pads harder onto the disc( Lock on that you release by bleeding the calipers)
SO the problem will be in the master cylinder
having the brakes professionally flushed may relieve the problem for a period but a new master cylinder fitted professionally will fix the problem
The brakes will not come on and stay on as you drive. If that is what is happening then the issue is the front brakes pads are not releasing from the rotors after you take your foot off the brakes. This is caused by a blockage in the front flexible brake lines which will occur if the brake fluid is not kept clean and, more importantly, if the brake hoses are not replaced every 6-7 years with new ones. Typically, brake hoses will deteriorate and block up near the connection points and lock the brakes pads in position once the brakes are applied by the driver because the fluid will not flow back into the master cylinder when the brakes are released.
The only other means for the brakes to be applied (other than by the driver) is with the anti lock braking system if that system is fitted on your vehicle. However the system will not behave as you have described which I believe is caused by blocked front brake hoses due to very poor maintenance on the brake system.
First thing is are the wheels grabbing, you will need to drive and see if they are grabbing and then jack one wheel at a time and see which one is grabbing and go from there it could be brake hose or e-brake cable but first pinpoint the wheel or wheels. you said they are locking which ones front or rear?
does your model have an abs unit as this can be the fault, some areas when sold did not have this abs unit but with the abs unit it has valves to assist braking. if a piston in the abs has failed it stop it from working and only manual braking is used but this is limited.
Your brake handle has two sets of gears that will lock against eachother. The button in the front of your handle acts as a release for the arm sode of those gears. Sounds like the button is jammed. Remove the cover fo rbetter access. Slide the cover off the arm Shoot some WD-40 inside the shaft where the button sits and push it in. If it doesn't push in, then it's probably jammed in. Maybe something is wedged inside. The check engine light is probably because of the gas leak. The computer senses the low pressure and prompts the caution. On a second notion, if you had the brake pads replaced on the rear wheels, it's possible that the cable needs to be re-adjusted for the new pads. The e-brake uses the rear pads for action. Good luck!
Your MOST LIKELY problem is a defective brake hose. The hoses are made up of several layers. There is a rubber outer shell and a steel or kevlar reinforcement and a silicone-based inner lining that will resist the brake fluid and prevent the brake fluid from eating the other layers. What happens is that the inner lining tears loose inside and acts like a "heart valve" The liner will expand when dthe pedal is applied and allow fluid to be pushed into the caliper under pressure. However, when the brake pedal is released, the hose collapses and prevents the fluid from returning to the master cylinder.
The way to diagnose this condition is like this:
Raise and support the vehicle and remove the tire on the side that keeps destroying brake pads.
start the engine and press ******* the brake pedal and then release the brake pedal.
Turn the engine off and check to see if the caliper has the wheel locked up.
If it does, then open the bleeder screw on the caliper. The fluid should squirt out under pressure and the caliper will release the wheel. If it does, replace the hose.
The rear brakes engage when the power or pressure going through the lines are equal. Normally that occurs when the pads and or shoes touch the rotors and or the drums, then the brakes work smoothly. A clog or air (which is more compressible than fluid) makes the balancing a problem and can cause one or more wheels brake differently than the others.
Sounds like the caliper needs replaced. Sometimes the pistons lock in the caliper and cause the brakes to drag. When the mechanic changed the brakes before, he pushed the pistons in all the way to accomodate the new brake pads. Now that they are wearing back down, it is getting to the warped spot in the caliper and starting to stick.
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