Question about 1999 Chevrolet Blazer

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Rear brakes over heating

Rear right side brake pads over heating do to friction on rotor also rim getting extra hot no air in line calipers were replaced 3-4 months ago maybe defected?

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  • Chevrolet Master
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Could be hand brakes too tight.
With a normal handbrake, you can remove some screws around the handbrake covering. The screws are sometimes well hidden so you have to look around.
When you get the covering off, there are two adjusting nuts at the rear of the handbrake. Turn the nuts until you can get "5 clicks" on the handbrake to set the brakes.
Some jack up the car while doing this so they can rotate the wheels by hand to feel when the brakes touch the pads.
Hope this helps

Posted on Apr 22, 2015

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  • Chevrolet Master
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U have a defective ABS hydraulic control valve, this is an active control system and it can apply pressure regardless of pedal input from the driver, the problem is a tiny hydraulic pressure valve is leaking and applying that brake piston.

Posted on Jul 15, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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2 Answers

Will wraped brake rotors cause them to get hot


sounds like they a warped because they got hot are these the rear rotors ? i would check for collapsed rubber lines, sticking calipers, sticking pads in the mounting brackets frozen e-brake cable the same can be checked on the front minus the e-brke cable

May 16, 2016 | 1999 GMC Jimmy

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Overheating brakes


I think the problem is the brake pad or caliper, brake pad are too thick or the caliper are not good casted.
First try to confirm if you get a right brake caliper ,then confirm the brake disc ,brake pad, if they all ok, tear down the bracket of caliper, put into brake pad, then put into brake rotor.
http://www.fiverhope.com/category-4-b0-Brake-caliper.html

Jun 27, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

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Woooo sound that varies with speed after new pads installed and a slightly hot rim?


The problem is likely to be the hardware wasn't as fine as you were led to believe. The brake is clearly not fully releasing and producing the all-important couple of thousandths of an inch clearance between the rotor and friction material.

Possible reasons are a build up of scale in the pad carrier and if stainless steel shim bearing surfaces are used it is often between the shims and the carrier.

Sometimes the caliper dust cover has been allowing water and dirt access to the piston and pressing the piston back into the caliper without first cleaning often results in a sticky caliper shortly after the pads have been replaced.

The parking brake could be badly or improperly adjusted, or it could be a perished brake hose.

A brake that has been overheating for a while is likely to shorten the life of the wheel bearing...

Jul 16, 2017 | 2009 Subaru Legacy

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Just changed rear pads and rotors on my 2000 chev blazer..after test driving rear brakes were hot and smoking...brake pads seem to be sticking..are the calipers shot or do I need hoses or both?


  • Well when you looked at the brake pads after your drive were the pads stuck to the rotor?
  • First thing to do is double check your pad and rotor installation.
  • Also check to make sure the right parts were installed.
  • When you pushed back the pistons on your calipers did they flow back nice and smooth? Did they wedge in and get stuck? This would make the pads drag.
  • If you used grease did you get some on the pad by accident? If this is the case it will burn off.

  • How is the car stopping for you? Properly? Do you hear any grinding while driving slow? While driving fast? Over heating rotors will turn a bluish stain. That is when it is really time to be worried.
  • If your brakes are not dragging then give some time for the pads to ware in.
  • If the piston is stuck forcing the pads against the rotor all the time then you need to replace the calipers.
  • Don't forget to bleed the lines afterword.

Regards, Tony

May 17, 2011 | 2000 Chevrolet Blazer

2 Answers

Rotors keep warping


Could be a number of problems. Here are a few.

Defective Brake Pads
  • Brake pads that are defective and/or incorrectly installed can, over time, cause brake rotors to warp and become damaged. Brake pads are responsible for squeezing against the spinning brake rotor, an action that causes a vehicle to slow down or stop. If the brake pads are bent, misshapen in any way, or aligned and/or installed abnormally, they can exert abnormal pressure on the brake rotors, a condition that can cause brake rotor warpage over time.

  • Abnormal Brake Caliper Action
  • An abnormal or malfunctioning brake caliper can result in brake rotor warpage if the degree of brake caliper dysfunction is severe enough. A brake caliper houses a set of vehicle brake pads and provides the squeezing force necessary to squeeze the brake pads against the spinning brake rotor. If a brake caliper applies too much pressure to the brake pads, or if it applies pressure inconsistently, it can cause a brake rotor to warp over time. Adequate brake caliper action is necessary for optimizing brake pad and brake rotor function.

  • Excessive Heat
  • A vehicle's braking system generates a tremendous amount of friction-related heat, heat that normally gets radiated away from the brake pads and brake rotor mechanisms. However, in cases where excessive heat is generated within a braking system and not dispersed adequately, serious brake malfunctions can occur, which can include brake rotor warpage. A stuck brake caliper, old, worn-down brake pads, or a defective brake rotor can cause excessive heat to develop in or around a brake rotor, which can cause brake rotor damage and warpage.

  • Damanged Wheel Hub Spindle
  • A brake rotor assembly is supported by and rides on a long, slender metal tube called a hub, or wheel hub assembly. The hub is what allows for the smooth, even circular motion of the spinning brake rotor. Designed with a smooth, low-friction exterior, the wheel hub assembly is critical to the proper spinning motion of the brake rotor. Any abnormalities or defects with the wheel hub assembly, including hub warpage, cracking or misalignment, can cause abnormal brake rotor rotation, which in turn can cause brake rotor warpage over time. Normally, a damaged wheel hub assembly is noticed and remedied prior to extensive brake rotor damage, as a severely damaged wheel hub assembly will cause a vehicle tire to wobble and shake.
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    Normally a "pulsing" brake pedal means that that you have a warped brake rotor or the brake caliper is lose. I would start by taking the front wheel off and inspecting the brake pads and the rotor. If the brake pads are worn down bad replace them. Pay special attention to the brake rotors also as if the are grooved very bad, they should also be replaced.

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    2003 Jeep Liberty - recently replaced brake pads and rotors and now drivers side rear wheel will intermittently lock up which creates tremendous heat in the wheel and fries the brake pads. Have had into...


    I had the same experience in the past and it turned out to be the caliper that was getting stuck and the pads would not retract away from the rotors causing friction and eventually burning your pads.

    May 20, 2010 | 2003 Jeep Liberty

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    Pulling in left rear and brake and rotor used up faster than all others


    Possibilities.
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    This means:
    a. The Caliper is faulty.
    b. The Brake Line Hose (if so equipped) going from Brake Line to the Caliper is faulty.
    A. To Check which one is faulty:
    B. Raise and Support properly the rear of the vehicle.
    C. Remove the tires from both sides.
    D. Inspect the brake springs and brake pad retainers (if so equipped) Missing or improperly placed springs and/or brake pad retainers (if so equipped) could possibly cause this also.
    E. Using a 6-inch (or larger) "C"-clamp, place the top end of the "C"-clamp onto the back of the caliper. Do not place it on the Brake Line/Hose or the Brack Line connection to the Caliper. Place the screw end of the "C"-clamp onto the center portion of the outside Brake Pad, but not touching the Caliper Housing. Begin screwing-in the clamp, this will move the Brake Pad in, and push the Caliper Piston back into the Caliper Bore. If this is difficult to do, then that is your first sign that the Caliper is "sticking open".
    If you are not sure how easy or hard this should be: Move to the Right Side of the vehicle and Clamp-in the right rear Caliper to get an idea of how easy/difficult it should feel. Compare the feel.
    If the Left Rear Caliper is difficult to reset:
    (1) Place a tight fitting Hose over the nipple of Bleeder Screw, located on the back of the Caliper. Do not cover the nut sides.
    (2) Loosen the Bleeder Screw until fluid starts coming out.
    (3) Reattempt to Clamp-in the brake.
    (4) If it is now alot easier to Clamp-in, then it is the Brake Line Hose going from the Brake Line to the Caliper that is most likely faulty.

    The Brake Hoses wear out on the inside, causing "gate-like" frayings. The fluid can flow out to the Caliper, but once the Brake Pedal is released these "gates" close, not allowing the fluid to return-out of the caliper. The Caliper maintains pressure on the Rotor causing the pulling of the vehicle and the wear-and-tear of the Rotor and Pads.
    Let me know if this helped, or if you have any additional information, problems, or questions. Feel free to contact me at FixYa.com!




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    The problem might have already been there,the steel wheels are making it noticeable,because they don`t cool down as quick.Most likely is the calipers sticking,or you have a set of high dollar brake pads on the vehicle,and they are heating the rotors up.The high dollar pads are a very hard composite pad witch produce a lot of friction,and heat as a sort of side affect.

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