Question about 1998 Oldsmobile Silhouette

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'98 Oldsmobile Silhouette-begins to surge at 2500 rpm and loses power. It is not the transmission but the engine begins running roughly, surging @2500 rpm when parked or when driving under a load. I have change the fuel filter and added fuel injector cleaner but still have the problem.

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  • Oldsmobile Master
  • 5,763 Answers

How about the sparkplugs and the wires, you may need to tune it up, sounds like it misfires under a load, i would start with a tuneup and go from there. the other thing that come to mind could be a bad coil pack, or low fuel presusre,if you have the computer scanned and pin point the cylinder or cylinders misfiring you could try switching coil packs or plug wires to see if the misfire move and if it does you would know if its a wire coil or plug, but if its been a while sence you had a tune up i would start with that.

Posted on Jul 15, 2010

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Car surging


Is the car equipped with the Automatic Transmission?
If so, read on.
Otherwise skip to the end and answer some questions.

POSSIBLE SCENARIO:
I have observed a condition where my car surges slightly when the torque-converter clutch (TCC) cycles between lock and unlock when driving on an uphill grade.
First some basics and history that will explain why the TCC is used.

Engine, Torque Converter, TCC, and Transmission relationship--
The TCC allows for a solid connection between the engine and transmission which allows the input to the transmission to rotate at the same speed as the engine.
Without a TCC, there is slippage between the engine and automatic transmission. The slippage is greatest at low engine RPM. That is what allows the engine to run with the automatic transmission in gear, like when you first shift into gear or stop at a stop sign. When the throttle pedal is depressed, the engine RPM begins to increase and the torque converter begins to slip less and less the more the engine RPM increases. The car moves. But even at cruising speeds the torque converter slips slightly. Engine RPM is greater than transmission input RPM, which is realized as slight decrease in fuel efficiency.
When acceleration is complete and a constant speed is being maintained, the engine power output is reduced to the point where the TCC can engage and eliminate any slippage between the engine and transmission. If the car has a tachometer the engagement of the TCC can be verified when a slight reduction in engine RPM observed without a corresponding change in vehicle speed.
One method used to test the operation of the TCC is as follows:
Find a flat section of road where it is safe to perform the test.
Reach a steady speed and keep the gas pedal depressed with one foot. While observing the tachometer (or listening for an increase in engine RPM), with the other foot depress the brake pedal enough to activate the break light switch but not enough to engage the brakes. When the brake light switch activates, the TCC receives a signal to disengage. With the gas pedal being held steady, release the brake pedal and the engine RPM should decrease when the TCC engages.
Old cars with Automatic Transmissions did not use a TCC. I believe the TCC was put in use in an attempt to increase fuel economy.

MY EXPERIENCE WITH SIMILAR SYMPTOMS
The condition that causes that issue on my car is this:
- A slight uphill grade increases the load on the engine.
The car tends to gradually slow and it is necessary to depress the gas pedal to maintain speed.
- Depressing the throttle pedal (manually, or automatically with cruise control engaged) signals the torque converter clutch to unlock when the load increases slightly. (A more drastic load increase would signal the Transmission to downshift to a lower gear.) The corresponding increase in engine RPM and output is enough to compensate for the reduction in speed. When the vehicle speed, engine RPM, and throttle position stabilize to the point that the TCC will engage and the engine RPM will reduce in correspondence with TCC engagement. Now, if the road conditions have not changed, power output is not enough to maintain vehicle speed. With the increased load caused by full engagement between engine and transmission, and the cycle (surging) repeats itself until the road conditions change.

Does that help?
If not:

QUESTIONS
Please define the symptoms.
What are the road conditions when the surge occurs? (A slight uphill grade?)
What is the frequency of the surge?
Does the engine power output have a noticeable surge?
Is there a speed change related to the surge?
Does the tachometer move up and down with little or no change in vehicle speed?
Are all instrument indication in the normal range?
What else has changed?

Good luck!

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Increase then decrease idle when engine is cold especially


cold engine idle surge. (problem)
RPM range of surge not stated
300-700 or 800 to 1500? (range is critical to diagnosis)

bad fuel
running summer fuel in winter (running old fuel?)
needs a tune up bad, see the list in the operator guide.
idle speed controller,sticking or EGR valve same. (clean them)
location not stated, so cant guess about local air temps.?
no other symptoms, lack of engine power? etc?
was it ok last week, or better, when was the last time it was OK?
1week, 1year?
surge , causes, on a tuned engine might be:
1: too lean. so lean the ISC can not control idle. rpm low, stalling
2: too rich, flooding, stalling, spark plugs foul (look at them)
3: weak compression in 1 or more cylinders.
4: bad spark.
5: air leaks, in the plenum causing , ISC to lose control.
why high RPM?

especially?
well that means it fails hot too.
and there is a simple tests. for hot surge.
is engine fully hot? 180F and holds solid there?
say rpm is about 800
and you turn on head lights, heater fan and (not AC) and defrost.
the RPM must hold or the ISC is failing.
ISC -= idle speed controls. (all EFI has this function)

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