Question about 1984 Ford Mustang

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*UPDATE* 1984 Mustang Won't stay running

*UPDATE* I finally got my motor to fire and run but it doesnt seem to have good air/fuel ratio. I can get it to run but I have to keep feathering the gas to keep it running or it will just die. I have a holly 4-barrel carb. Motor is a Ford 302ci. Any suggestions? thanks.

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  • GetMeOttaHere Jul 15, 2010

    When you pump the carb manually from under the hood, are you getting a spalsh of fuel? Has the ignition timing been checked?

  • corey6966 Jul 15, 2010

    Yeah it's getting plenty of fuel I thinks its just the timing. It's so far off I cant get it to stay running, and it runs really rough when it is running. I had to put my spark plug wires in the opposite order to get it to run and so I tried flipping the distributor 180 degrees but that just made it to where it doesn't run at all now. Everyone I have talked to just said that my timing is so far off that the car isn't firing right. So at this point I don't know what to do.

  • corey6966 Jul 19, 2010

    I tried what the last guy said and when I put the screwdriver into the engine, the tip of it broke off and is now inside of my engine. I'm pretty sure I have to take my motor apart again to get it out.



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You need to check if the Idle control jets are set properly, these are the 2 screws near the base plate on this type of carburettor.

Screw them fully in, then on the primary side screw it out 2.5 turns.
On the secondary side screw this out 1.75 turns. This should get your idle up.

If this dosn't work then you have got problems with the idle jet system which means you need to pull the emulsion tubes out and jets out to clean them.

Also check that your Idle screw is screwed in enough to allow the throttle to be open enough to idle.

Hope this helps



Posted on Jul 15, 2010

  • Jason Maurirere
    Jason Maurirere Jul 16, 2010

    Ok Corey,

    You need to start from scratch.

    1. Take the plug out of number 1 cylinder which is the left front one look at it from the front of the engine.

    2. Turn the engine ova till you feel compression coming out of the cylinder, put your thumb over it and get a mate to turn it over for you.

    3. Once you feel the air pushing out, then put a long thin screw driver down into the plug hole and keep turning it over, you will see the screw driver coming out, then when you just see it dropping again stop and look at where your timing marks are on the front pulley. If the pulley timing marks are not even close to lining up then you have got problems with valve timing or or your front pulley timing marks are out.

    4. Now line the timing mark up to the timing that it should be, if it is and auto this should be 6 degrees BTDC. If it is a manual it should be 10 Dregrees BTDC.

    5.Now mark the side of the dizzy ( distributor) with a marker where the number 1 lead is, take the dizzy cap off and see where the rotor is pointing, if it is not pointing at the number 1 spark plug lead then remove the dizzy and rotate it and fit it until it is pointing at the number 1 spark plug lead or as close to it as you can.

    6.You can tighten the dizzy clamp up so that you can turn it slighty,refit the dizzy cap.

    7.Now check the firing order is correct, this should be 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8, this is in a counter clockwise direction, looking down on the dizzy cap.

    Now your ignition timing is almost set perfect, you just need to attach the timming light and fire up the engine and fine tune the dizzy to the correct setting by turning the dizzy..

    But before you do this disconnect the vacum hose from the distributor and block it off.

    If it still runs rough after this, remove all the spark plugs and check them, if they look worn or are to wet looking replace them all. Then check your HT leads with an Ohmeter resistence over each lenght should not exceed 10,000 Ohms if they do throw them away and replace them.

    Now all you ignition system should be 100%.

    Hope this has cleared things up for you, let me know if you need more information.



  • Jason Maurirere
    Jason Maurirere Jul 19, 2010

    Oh mate that is not good to hear, yes you will have to remove the head now.

    It might pay to get someone who has a better understanding of engines etc to help you out while you do this project, it may save you some headaches along the way.

    Once you remove the broken tip and refit the head, I hope it all go's according to plan after that.


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The instructions given by the other expert are spot on. I suggest you follow those guides lines.If you still have difficulty,I can probably narrow the procedure down to help,but the previous answer is what you need to do and verify.

Posted on Jul 16, 2010


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