Engine produces a low-tone roaring sound when gas is pressed. will not accelerate quickly or above 55mph.

My friend's 2004 Focus was doing the same thing - especially loud when accelerating from a stop. When it reached stable speed, it got much quieter. We thought it was exhaust also, but couldn't find any cracks, gaps, or obvious leaks. We brought it to a garage, and they found a bad motor mount. When the engine was under load, it would torque (against either the frame or firewall) and make the loud, irritating noise. A new engine mount, and it sounds almost new again.

Is the check engine light on ?
Exhaust restriction ?
Low fuel pressure ?

quick fix?....try injector cleaner in gas tank

Hello I don't know exactly where you live however, I'd say the loud " roaring noise is possibly the clutch fan. The reason why they are so loud and make the roaring sound is because as you accelerate the fan blades spread outward but are under resistance .It's activated by ambient engine temp. They are very noisy when engaged and tend to work more on rural roads, stop and go and when A/C is being used. etc. The brake light is on because the fluid is below the fluid level sensor basically telling you to check and or add brake fluid. In addition the ABS light has came on because it had ran low on brake fluid sending a warning signal to the computer from the ABS brake control module. The best thing to do is to keep up on the fluid level find that leak and repair it.

it sounds like your car battery is very low or you are very low on gas. try jumpstarting your car or siphoning some gas into the gas tank.
hope this helps!

You have to do a drive cycle, the fuel tank has to be between 1/4 and 3/4 of a tank of fuel, can not be above or below this fuel level.
To perform an OBDII Driving cycle do the following:

1. Cold Start
In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 50ºC (122ºF) and within 6ºC (11ºF) of the ambient air temperature at startup. Do not leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.

2. Idle
The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on maximum and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire and if closed loop is achieved, Fuel Trim.

3. Accelerate
Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 88km/hr (55mph) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.

4. Hold Steady Speed
Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.

5. Decelerate
Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 32km/hr (20 mph). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.

6. Accelerate
Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 88-96 km/hr (55-60mph). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3.

7. Hold Steady Speed
Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.

8. Decelerate
This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears.

it could be your prseurs plate or low on fluid in the clutch not thing it's your cable

change fuel filter, check fuel flow and preasure.

SOUND LIKE FUEL PUMP.SCAN IT TO MAKE SURE.IT ALSO COULD BE FUEL PUMP RELAY OR FUSE.

Same problem with an LS...wheel bearings. Comes in the whole hub assembly. Just had it fixed for $340.