Bleeding the brakes after new pads are installed...

First you want to remove brake fluid from brake resovoir, raise front wheels off ground and set park brake or block rear wheels. Remove front wheels, keep steering wheel unlocked so you can turn rotors side to side. Loosen bolts that hold caliper end gently pry caliper free from rotor, remove caliper and remove pads, use bungy cord to hang caliper away from rotor, have rotors measured to see if they are thick enough to have machined, replace if out of specs. Match up pads with old ones, use anti- squeak red liquid and put layer on back of pads, let dry. Use tool to put pistons back into calipers, slowly put pistons back into bore while opening up bleeder screw so ABS won't be damaged. After rotors resurfaced, wash with rubbing alchohal to remove any oils from hands, install rotors and reverse putting pads back onto caliper and reinstall, torque caliper bolts to factory specs and tighten bleeder screws. Install wheels, torque lug nuts to factory specs and replace brake fluid in resovoir. Lower car carefully to ground and press brake peddle without pumping it. Any air in system should bleed out, if not get someone to help with bleeding system. Road test to ensure no squeaks or pulling, burn brakes in slowly.

Go to You Tube Video & watch how to do brake work

There is a lot more to do than changing brake pads only

Your best to get a friend or someone for a mentor to show
you how to start learning about vehicle maintenance

If you have rear disc brakes, one of the rotors could be warped and causing the pads to move in the caliper.
You should be able to remove one wheel at a time, lock down the rotor with the lug nuts, and put the trans in low gear or reverse to listen for the noise.

your probably going to have to bleed the entire system.1st try & bleed the master cyl.
basicly the same as you would bleed the front/rear brakes. pump pedal & hold while someone
loosen the brake line on the master cyl. after m/c is bleed move to r/r,l/r,r/f,l/f wheels in
that order. if you have abs brakes & you got air in the pump a scan tool may be needed
to bleed properly.

Installing new brake pads on toyota camry solara 2006 front rotors and pads and rear pads. Steering wheel would shake while breaking on 50+ miles per hour speeds. All fixed now.

jack up the rear of the car remove wheels and tires, remove the two caliper bolts, remove old brake pads, using a c clamp push each piston the the caliper bake in install new pads, reinstall caliper install wheels and tires lower the jack and your done
caliper bolts are torque head bolts be sure to have the proper size before trying to change the brakes

i assume you mean the front pads, because the back are probably shoes..is it both front wheels or just one? if it is the front brakes locking up, its either the hose to that caliper is collapsed or the caliper it self is faulty. if its the rear brakes, its possible they were put on backwards...little shoe goes toward the fron and the bigger one goes toward the back...maybe they were put together wrong..id say if this guy that did your brakes, cant figure the problem out, then he shouldnt be doing brake jobs!

It sounds like the rear calipers are bad. Raise the rear wheels and see if you can turn the tires. If you can't, open the bleeder. If you still can't replace the caliper. If you can turn the wheel after you open the bleeder, replace the brake hose to that wheel.

have one person in the blazer pumping the brake pedal and then hold to the floor, crack the bleeder then tighten, release pedal, repeat till all air is out one side at a time, if this does not work then your ABS unit is bad witch if u follow your lines from your master cylinder u will find a black box with a motor on it, or the master cylinder itself is bad, it also can cause u to have no pedal, replace the master cylinder first, most likely cheaper.

check your frt brake pads. sounds like wear tabs. must be getting close to needing new pads.