Question about Toyota Pickup

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I have a 1994 toyota 4x4 v6 that has recently been rebuilt ~2000 miles ago. it really feels gutless to me. its like it has more to give but cant. it acts similar to a mass flow sensor problem I have had in the past with another vehicle. the code is 71. I think this is an egr system problem. will this cause power loss and bad gas mileage? Im getting ~ 16 mi/gal. also is it normal to hear mild ticking from the engine?

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  • makitso Jul 28, 2010

    sorry for the delay, I cleaned the egr and no change, I foound the cap and rotor kinda crusty so I replaced them. no change. I baught a new egr valve, no change. Im lost.

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The most common problem with a code 71 is the EGR valve,they get plugged up from carbon build up. Best way to test it is with a hand held vacuum pump. Connect it to the EGR valve, and with the engine running at idle, squeeze the vac pump a couple times to open the EGR valve. That should stall the engine. If it dosent, the EGR valve is probably plugged up. At that point you'll have to take it off and clean the carbon out. Even if you have your mechanic check into it, it shouldnt be that expensive to remove it and clean it out or replace it. Also verify the passages are clean and free of carbon.

Posted on Jul 14, 2010

  • 12 more comments 
  • makitso Jul 14, 2010

    Thanks. would this cause significant power loss and or poor gas mileage?

  • GetMeOttaHere Jul 14, 2010

    With out a doubt, this would cause poor fuel mileage and loss of power. The EGR system is desgined to recirculate exhaust back into the intake system, and when this is done, it cools the combustion chamber. With the code you received, this is the best place to start and I would not be surprised if the passages are clogged.

  • makitso Jul 14, 2010

    Thanks again. Ill try it.

  • GetMeOttaHere Jul 14, 2010

    Comment back with the results.

  • makitso Jul 14, 2010

    I tried the vacuum test. I did not have the hand held, but I had some extra tubing, and I drew a vacuum with my mouth and the truck did not die out but it got really close. does this mean it is not stuck or clogged?

  • GetMeOttaHere Jul 14, 2010

    I'm not sure you can apply enough Vac to this unit without a pump, the engine should stall. This will verify the EGR diaphram is working, but you may still have a clog.

  • GetMeOttaHere Jul 14, 2010

    Diagnosis; 60 seconds after start of EGR operation, EGR gas temp is less than 158 degress F and the following also occur.

    1. Engine coolant temp 127 F or more.

    2.Engine speed; 1,200 RPM or more.

    3. Intake air temp 32 degrees or more.

    These are the values programmed to the PCM and conditions must me met. If not, the Code will be stored.Possible causes are:



    EGR valve

    EGR hose

    EGR gas temp circuit

    EGR gas temp sensor

    VSV for EGR

    VSV circuit for EGR

    PCM (Computer) this is not likely but I do mention it.

  • makitso Jul 14, 2010

    I pull a stronger vacuum. I compared what the truck was pulling at idle, at 2000rpm and at 3500rpm with what i was pulling, and there was an obvious difference. I will remove it and clean it tomorrow though.

  • makitso Jul 14, 2010

    sorry, one more question. what is the best way to clean it? do I need to soak it or something?

  • GetMeOttaHere Jul 14, 2010

    You can use a small screw driver to chisel away the carbon and cover any areas that you do n ot want carbon to get into. I also use a wet/dry vacuum to assist in pulling any loose material.

  • makitso Jul 14, 2010

    ok, so I decided to dive in this evening. the valve does not seem to be clogged. I removed it and bench tested it and when I applied vacuum there was clear flow thru the valve. a.lso it was visibly clean, but I attempted to scrape what I could. I reinstalled and found an auxilary vacuum port on the top of the engine and retried the stall out test using the port and it did die out. then I checked the vacuum to the valve, which I guess i should have checked first, and there is no vacuum at idle which I kinda expected, but there is also no vacuum when steadily reved. is there a circuit that calls for vacuum at a certain rpm or something? from what I can see there doues not seem to be any kinks in the line. what next?

  • GetMeOttaHere Jul 14, 2010


    1. Remove the EGR vacuum modulator cap and filter.

    2. Check the filter for damage or contamination.

    3. With compressed air, clean the filter.

    4. Reinstall the filter and cap. Install the filter with the coarser surface facing the atmospheric side (outwards).

    5. Using a 3-way connector, attach a vacuum gauge to the hose between the EGR valve and the EGR vacuum modulator.

    6. Start the engine and check that the engine starts and runs at idle.


    The engine coolant temperature should be below 122°F (20°C).



    1. Check that the vacuum gauge indicates zero at 3000 rpm.

    2. Check that the EGR pipe is not hot.

    3. Remove the 3-way connector with the vacuum hose.

    4. Connect the vacuum hose from port Q of the EGR modulator to the EGR valve.

    5. Plug the hose from the VSV to the EGR.

    6. Remove the vacuum gauge, then reconnect the vacuum hoses to their proper locations.

    7. Apply vacuum directly to the EGR valve with the engine at idle.



    1. Check that the engine now idles rough or stalls.


    2. Reconnect the vacuum hoses to their proper locations.



    1FZ-FE Engines



    1. Check the filter in the EGR modulator for contamination and clean using compressed air.


    2. Using a 3-way connector, connect a vacuum gauge inline between the valve and vacuum pipe.



    Check that the engine starts and idles smoothly.

    For accurate system testing, the coolant temperature should be below 117°F (47°C).



    1. Accelerate the engine to 2500 rpm and verify that the vacuum gauge reads 0 in. Hg.


    2. Check that the EGR pipe is not hot.



    For accurate test results, the engine coolant temperature must now be above 127°F (53°C)



    1. Check that the vacuum gauge reads low vacuum at 2500 rpm.


    2. Disconnect the vacuum hose from port R of the EGR vacuum modulator and connect port R directly to the intake manifold.


    3. Check that the vacuum reading is high at 2500 rpm. As large amounts of vacuum enters the engine, the engine idle quality may be adversely affected.


    4. Remove the vacuum gauge and reconnect the vacuum hoses in their original locations.


    5. Apply vacuum directly to the EGR valve with the engine at idle.


    6. If the EGR valve is operating properly, the engine should misfire, run rough and possibly stall. Reconnect the vacuum hoses in their proper locations.



    22R-E and 3VZ-E Engines



    1. Check the filter in the EGR modulator for contamination and clean using compressed air.


    2. Using a 3-way connector, connect a vacuum gauge inline between the valve and vacuum pipe.


    3. Check that the engine starts and idles smoothly.



    For accurate system testing, the coolant temperature should be below 118°F (48°C) on 3VZ-E engines or below 93°F (34°C) on 22R-E engines.



    1. Accelerate the engine to 3500 rpm and verify that the vacuum gauge reads 0.



    For accurate test results, the engine coolant temperature must be above 126°F (52°C) on 3VZ-E engines or above 104°F (40°C) on 22R-E engines.



    1. Check that the vacuum gauge reads low vacuum at 3500 rpm.


    2. Disconnect the vacuum hose from port R of the EGR vacuum modulator and connect port R directly to the intake manifold.


    3. Check that the vacuum reading is high at 3000 rpm. As large amounts of vacuum enters the engine, the engine idle quality may be adversely affected.


    4. Remove the vacuum gauge and reconnect the vacuum hoses in their original locations.


    5. Apply vacuum directly to the EGR valve with the engine at idle. If the EGR valve is operating properly, the engine should run rough or possibly stall.


    6. Reconnect the vacuum hoses in their proper locations.



    5VZ-FE Engine





    1. Remove the EGR vacuum modulator cap and filter.


    2. Check the filter for damage or contamination.


    3. With compressed air, clean the filter.


    4. Reinstall the filter and cap. Install the filter with the coarser surface facing the atmospheric side (outwards).


    5. Using a 3-way connector, attach a vacuum gauge to the hose between the EGR valve and the VSV.


    6. Start the engine and check that the engine starts and runs at idle.


    7. Using the SST 09843-18020 or an equivalent jumper wire, connect terminals TE1 and E1 of the DLC1 under the hood.


  • GetMeOttaHere Jul 14, 2010







    The engine coolant temperature should be below 113°F (45°C).



    1. Check that the vacuum gauge indicates zero at 2800 rpm.


    2. Check that the EGR pipe is not hot.

    Allow the engine to run until the coolant temperature is above 176°F (80°C).



    1. Check that the vacuum hose gauge reads low vacuum at 2800 rpm.


    2. Disconnect the hose from port R of the EGR vacuum modulator and connect port R directly to the intake manifold with another hose.


    3. Check the vacuum gauge, it should read high vacuum at 3500 rpm.


    4. Disconnect terminals TE1 and E1 by removing the jumper wire.


    5. Remove the vacuum gauge, and reconnect the vacuum hoses to their proper locations.


    6. Apply vacuum directly to the EGR valve with the engine at idle.


    7. Check that the engine idles rough or stalls.

  • GetMeOttaHere Jul 28, 2010

    Did this problem occur suddenly or was it noticed immediately after the rebiult engine was dropped in? We are going to have to start from square one, as I understand, you went through ALL the testing procedures and also replaced parts and have the same issue.

    This is a Toyota Pick up 2wd or 4x4? What type of ignition system was installed? Thanks.

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