Question about Toyota Pickup
The most common problem with a code 71 is the EGR valve,they get plugged up from carbon build up. Best way to test it is with a hand held vacuum pump. Connect it to the EGR valve, and with the engine running at idle, squeeze the vac pump a couple times to open the EGR valve. That should stall the engine. If it dosent, the EGR valve is probably plugged up. At that point you'll have to take it off and clean the carbon out. Even if you have your mechanic check into it, it shouldnt be that expensive to remove it and clean it out or replace it. Also verify the passages are clean and free of carbon.
Posted on Jul 14, 2010
Thanks. would this cause significant power loss and or poor gas mileage?
With out a doubt, this would cause poor fuel mileage and loss of power. The EGR system is desgined to recirculate exhaust back into the intake system, and when this is done, it cools the combustion chamber. With the code you received, this is the best place to start and I would not be surprised if the passages are clogged.
Thanks again. Ill try it.
Comment back with the results.
I tried the vacuum test. I did not have the hand held, but I had some extra tubing, and I drew a vacuum with my mouth and the truck did not die out but it got really close. does this mean it is not stuck or clogged?
I'm not sure you can apply enough Vac to this unit without a pump, the engine should stall. This will verify the EGR diaphram is working, but you may still have a clog.
Diagnosis; 60 seconds after start of EGR operation, EGR gas temp is less than 158 degress F and the following also occur.
1. Engine coolant temp 127 F or more.
2.Engine speed; 1,200 RPM or more.
3. Intake air temp 32 degrees or more.
These are the values programmed to the PCM and conditions must me met. If not, the Code will be stored.Possible causes are:
EGR valve
EGR hose
EGR gas temp circuit
EGR gas temp sensor
VSV for EGR
VSV circuit for EGR
PCM (Computer) this is not likely but I do mention it.
I pull a stronger vacuum. I compared what the truck was pulling at idle, at 2000rpm and at 3500rpm with what i was pulling, and there was an obvious difference. I will remove it and clean it tomorrow though.
sorry, one more question. what is the best way to clean it? do I need to soak it or something?
You can use a small screw driver to chisel away the carbon and cover any areas that you do n ot want carbon to get into. I also use a wet/dry vacuum to assist in pulling any loose material.
ok, so I decided to dive in this evening. the valve does not seem to be clogged. I removed it and bench tested it and when I applied vacuum there was clear flow thru the valve. a.lso it was visibly clean, but I attempted to scrape what I could. I reinstalled and found an auxilary vacuum port on the top of the engine and retried the stall out test using the port and it did die out. then I checked the vacuum to the valve, which I guess i should have checked first, and there is no vacuum at idle which I kinda expected, but there is also no vacuum when steadily reved. is there a circuit that calls for vacuum at a certain rpm or something? from what I can see there doues not seem to be any kinks in the line. what next?
The engine coolant temperature should be below 122°F (20°C).
1FZ-FE Engines
Check that the engine starts and idles smoothly.
For accurate system testing, the coolant temperature should be below 117°F (47°C).
For accurate test results, the engine coolant temperature must now be above 127°F (53°C)
22R-E and 3VZ-E Engines
For accurate system testing, the coolant temperature should be below 118°F (48°C) on 3VZ-E engines or below 93°F (34°C) on 22R-E engines.
For accurate test results, the engine coolant temperature must be above 126°F (52°C) on 3VZ-E engines or above 104°F (40°C) on 22R-E engines.
5VZ-FE Engine
The engine coolant temperature should be below 113°F (45°C).
Allow the engine to run until the coolant temperature is above 176°F (80°C).
Did this problem occur suddenly or was it noticed immediately after the rebiult engine was dropped in? We are going to have to start from square one, as I understand, you went through ALL the testing procedures and also replaced parts and have the same issue.
This is a Toyota Pick up 2wd or 4x4? What type of ignition system was installed? Thanks.
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sorry for the delay, I cleaned the egr and no change, I foound the cap and rotor kinda crusty so I replaced them. no change. I baught a new egr valve, no change. Im lost.
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