Question about 1990 Chevrolet Suburban

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My rear differential twisted up.

My rear drive shaft u joint broke and in doing so twisted the rear differential up. I am wondering if there is a way to realign or twist it back down the rear differential or if i should just get a new rear end?

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Hi, It sounds like you bent the trailing arms,so thay will need to be replaced.You will have to check the shocks too,if thay are bent thay will need to be replaced may have broke the center pins that center the rearend on the springs.If so replace them too.The rearend should be fine.Hope this helps.Thank You for using fixya....iluv2fish.......Ray......

Posted on Jul 13, 2010

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I think u have to get a new rear diff sorry to say

Posted on Jul 13, 2010


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1 Answer

1994 Land Rover Discovery Manual has a grinding and clunking noise from rear, right side

A grinding noise suggests a bearing at fault or perhaps worn pads on the brake rotor.

However, the clunking noise you mention could also point to a problem with the drive shaft or differential.

The first thing you should do is to get under the vehicle and try twisting the propshaft back and forth. If there's any movement this points towards a worn universal joint on the propshaft. A worn universal joint can cause a clunking noise - particularly when pulling away. The vibration caused by a worn universal joint can also damage bearings in the differential and also to the splined ends of the axle shaft.

You're also going to have to remove the wheel from where the noise comes from and examine the end of the axle shaft/bearing.

The link below is of images of the rear axle:

land rover discovery rear axle Google Search

Apr 18, 2016 | Land Rover Cars & Trucks

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What are common problems that cause the tranny to shift harshly when engaging or shifting into rev. On a 95 one ton dually 2 wd automatic with a 454 big block

What most people see as a harsh transmission shift when transitioning from forward gears to reverse gear is really just the drive train taking up the slack in the connections. You need to realize that over time the universal joints in the drive shaft, as well as the pinion and ring gears in the rear differential will experience wear. When you are going forward the drive shaft is turning one direction, the u-joints and differential gears are all taking stress one one particular side. When you shift to reverse, everything reverses. So, the first thing to happen is the front u-joint changes direction. There will be a small amount of slack in the joint from wear. This slack will cause an irregular motion while it is taken up. This irregular motion is propagated to the rear u-joint, which must do the same. It will induce additional irregular motion, which is passed to the pinion and ring gears in the rear differential. In a new car/truck, you won't hardly notice this since all the wear surfaces are new and at factory tolerances. Give the vehicle 60-100K miles or more of hard wear and the result of this shifting to reverse can be a relatively loud clunking noise that can shake the vehicle. Replacement of u-joints can alleviate some of the issue, but the rear end wear can only be addressed with replacement. But as we say.....if it ain't really broke, why fix it?

Mar 07, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Why does the rear differential thumps from starts to 15 mph?

Check the fluid in the differential, and when you can, get a small sample of the heavy oil that is in there, and see if there is any ground up metal in it.
Shake the drive shaft back and forth where it enters the differential, there should be just a little looseness. If these is just a little,
please check the u-joints on the drive shaft.
Sounds like one has failed.
Normally you can grab the u-joint and shake it, and feel the looseness, however, you may choose to look more closely and disconnect each u-joint partly to see if there is bearing failure.
For every differential failure, there are about 25 or more u-joint failures.
Be blessed.

Mar 19, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

1989 Suzuki Sidekick rear differentials

GET IT TO A MECHANIC!! Something is loose or about to collapse! Remember that vibration and noise can travel away from the source so get the mechanic to start in that corner.
You need to get the following checked!
-Prop shaft mountings at transfer box.
-Prop shaft mountings at differential.
-Prop shaft bearings.
-Differential condition and oil level.
-Drive shafts at differential end.
-Drive shafts at the wheel end.
-All flexing joints in the system including UV joints and CV joints.

Feb 04, 2018 | Suzuki Sidekick Cars & Trucks

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Vehicle shakes at 60 mph all wheels and struts replaced

Hello, Are the tires and wheels balanced? If they are balanced then check the drive shaft. This drive shaft transfer the power from the engine/auto transmission to the rear differential/rear wheel.
Now, on each end of the drive shaft is a flexible yoke, this splined yoke has a U-joint with four bearing cups. Two of the bearing cup is attached to the splined yoke and two are attached to the drive shaft. Now, on the rear differential end is a yoke but it has 4 bolts and nuts, it also will have a U-joint attached to the 4 bolted yoke and to other bearing cups attach to drive shaft. U-Joint is called "Universal Joint" Each U-joint has about 10 degree circular travel without any type of binding to the U-joints or the drive shaft.

Two things here. First, take a pry bar and wedge into the U-Joint and move the bar forwards, backwards, up and down. If the drive shafts moves in any direction and clanks. The u-joints need to be replaced and I would replace both of the U-joints. Secondly, if the U-joints aren't loose, then there is a good possibility that the drive shaft is out of balance. In other words, it has lost it small welded plats on the drive shaft and when you are drive you Chrysler the drive shaft is vibrating.

To replace the U-Joints and/or balance the drive shaft. You'll need to remove those 4 bolts and nuts on the differential yoke. Once the bolts are removed then push the drive shaft forward, it will slide forward. Now, under the transmission yoke place a pan/bucket/container to catch the transmission fluid that will drain out once the drive shaft is pull free from the transmission.

If you don't have a press, vise, brass 5 lb hammer, bushing, punches, then I would tackle this job of replacing these U-Joints. Without the proper tools, one can damage the U-joint yokes and the drive shaft. I wouldn't do this without the tools and experience. I use a cutting torch but I have been do it for 50+ years.

If the drive shaft is out of balance, then you will need to take to Drive Line Specialty Shop to have it balanced. Also, have them replace the U-Joints. They have all equipment to do this job. I wish you luck in your endeavor. GB....stewbison

Sep 21, 2011 | 2004 Chrysler Sebring

1 Answer

Alright so here is my problem, i have a 2005 grand cherokee, when i first bought it every now and then when i was driving down a hill and let my foot of the gas i would hear a little clunk in the...

All cars do this a little because of the tranny tail bushing, drive shaft U joints, differential input bushing, and differential ring and pinion. But 4WD does it more because of the transfer box as well.
Check the differential fluid level, twist the drive shaft looking for slop, but also push up and down where the shaft goes into the tranny and the differential.

May 06, 2011 | 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

Hi im tray ing to put me self a universal joing for de drive shaff cant u send me how to doit

  • Lift the rear end of the Explorer with a floor jack. Place jack stands underneath the rear axle, by the leaf spring perches and lower the Explorer onto the stands. Pull the floor jack out of the way. mark both ends of the shaft for reinstalation.

  • 2

    Crawl under the rear end and unbolt the universal joint retaining straps from the rear differential yoke.

  • 3

    Pull the drive shaft and universal joint away from the rear differential yoke by hand.

  • 4

    Remove the retaining rings that hold the universal joint into the drive shaft with needle-nose pliers.

  • 5

    Support the end of the drive shaft on a jack stand and place the socket extension against the universal joint cap in the drive shaft yoke. Tap the socket extension with the dead blow hammer until the universal joint cap comes out of the yoke.

  • 6

    Clean the sockets in the drive shaft yoke with the tip of a pocket screwdriver to remove any built up road dirt or other gunk.

  • 7

    Remove two of the caps from the opposite ends of the replacement universal joint. Be careful to keep the bearings in the caps.

  • 8

    Position the replacement universal joint in the drive shaft yoke and put the cap on the outside. Use the socket extension and dead blow hammer to tap the cap through the yoke far enough to expose the retaining ring groove. Put the retaining ring on that side with the needle-nose pliers. Repeat this for the other cap.

  • 9

    Move the drive shaft back up to the differential yoke, line up the new universal joint with the differential yoke and reinstall the universal joint retaining straps with the wrench. Lower the rear end off the jack stands with the floor jack.

  • Sep 22, 2010 | 1996 Ford Explorer

    1 Answer

    When i begin driving my car there is sound like "dug" in my rear differential after which i donot hear any sound and drive smoothly

    You probably have a bad universal joint in the rear on the drive shaft. It is the joint that connects the drive shaft to the rear differential. If you turn the driveshaft from the underneath with your hands while looking at the joint also listen for it to make a noise and make sure there is no loose movement at the joint.

    Dec 20, 2009 | Chevrolet Caprice Classic Cars & Trucks

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    2002 dodge durango drive shaft broke out is rear damaged?

    take the cover off the diff and have a look does not take all that long

    Apr 01, 2009 | 2002 Dodge Durango

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