I have a 1997 honda cr-v and the radiator blew 2 weeks ago, I replaced it along with a fan that wasn't working. After that my car kept stalling and the battery and oil light came on every so often, i changed the fuel filter and the fuel pump and checked for clogs. My car is still dying and I'm wondering if its an electrical problem of some sort. please help?
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I've had problems of overheating previously where my car's thermostat would hit 140. I think I've fixed the issue, I've replaced the thermostat but it was still doing that and 2 hoses blew and needed to be replaced. I've had to consistently fill my radiator with 50/50 antifreeze on a daily basis to ensure it won't overheat, so far that seems to be keeping the peace.
But now as of 5 days ago, I'm experiencing these new issues of stalling. Upon taking my civic into my mechanic, his meter showed that there was a misfire in the 2nd cylinder a month prior and now all 4 are misfiring. He thought it was the head gasket at first. I had just recently replaced the spark plugs with NGK Platinums, new spark plug wires and a new distributor cap.
I've received many possible culprits to my problem consisting of possibly the Throttle Position Sensor, Fuel Filter/Injection, Distributor or a radiator cap. I'm financially strapped at the moment and only could afford the radiator cap which didn't solve anything, however my radiator is running on 80% water at the moment. I'm really at a loss and I feel like I've done what I could and I'm at my wits end. Please help my poor little Civic cheat death for a little longer.
You have to thank the Gauge that shuts down your engine when hot bec. it wont knock...you have to clean your radiator and see if the coolant inside it run through the radiator holes to the engine water jacket to make sure your engine will not over heat...For the fans, find the fan relay...it's under the hood in the fuse box...
This gets complicated. First of all don't let the engine overheat. There are two complete fan circuits, one for the air conditioning and one for the radiator. To test the fan, remove the electrical connector at the fan and use jumper wires to connect the fan motor directly to the battery. If it doesn't run, replace it, if it does operate try the fuses located in the engine compartment or under the driver's side dash. The fuse diagram should be on the fuse box cover. Other than that you may need professional help.
Complicated because there are two complete fan circuits, one for the air conditioning and one for the radiator. To test the fan motor itself disconnect the connector at the motor and use jumper wires to connect the motor directly to the battery. If it don't run-replace it, if the fan operates try the fuses located in the engine compartment or lower driver's side dash. Other than that seek professional help.
Possible head gasket put in wrong or possible. make sure radiator cooling fan is coming on. The smoke could be remaining from the water standing in the exhaust if it is fixed it will take a while for that to burn off. Check the timing on the timing belt. change your thermostat. Have your radiator checked for flow. If it is plugged replace it. Intake could be leaking to cause the fluctuating idle. The throttle body can cause the idle to search. Also the timing off can do that.If possible do a combustion leak test in the coolant
if this engine is overheating while u are driving then the fan is not the problem, if it gets overheated at idle or under 10 MPH then there is a POSSIBLE cooling fan issue, let me ask u this, does the fan come on when the AC is switched on? open the hook and turn the AC on the fan will come on and go off in cycles each time the pressure builds in the AC system, if the fan does this you have no problem with the fan and need to have other checksmade such as the thermostat not fully opening or a clogged radiator or leaking head gasket. Let me know and will help further,
hi i don't know what mechanic you went to but blown head gasket will cause the engine not to idle/run right. usually when you replace the thermostate you have to then run the car obviously with water in the radiator and crack the little screw where the thermostate is located. this will allow the car to release any trapped air in the lines and you may need to keep topping up the radiator. im not a mechanic but i know alot about cars. i came across this problem in my holden ute. it was running hot and that was why. too much trapped air. easiest way is too crack that screw and remove it. run the car while keeping an eye on the radiator water level you will see if there is air in there it won't squirt water out continuously once it does run continously turn the car off put the screw back in warning it will be quite hot retop te radiatior if need and you should be good too go. it solved the same problem i had. have fun cheers