Question about 2005 Chevrolet Silverado

5 Answers

I have a '05 Chevrolet Z-71 w/ 5.3, replaced water pump, alternator, idler pulley, tensioner pulley, and have gone through 6 Gates belts. They started to squawl with about 1k on it, now it's within 200 miles. I tried the "stop belt noise" spray and that only worsened. I know it's that belt and not the A/C belt (ran truck w/o belt on and quiet). 49K on engine, nothing to have caused it, don't want to take it to dealership. They'll put a belt on and say, "...it's fixed...". I have taken one of the old belts and cut two "grooves" off of it and have it centered. Thinking that the belt might be "rubbing" on edge (there is a trace of just that). Have not put more than 20 miles on it, still quiet. Can the spring on the tensioner be too strong and stressing the belt?

Posted by on

  • 1 more comment 
  • Philip Jul 13, 2010

    This person does not understand that this is a self tensioning belt system. The answer does not apply

  • Philip Jul 17, 2010

    Clay58, understands what's going on and is at the same place I am with what to do. I appreciate his time to reply, but it's not a "Fix". He's is a guess as is mine.

    I have the thought that I am just stuck with an oddity. It's not on a recall. I was hoping for an answer that would be the end of this expense and annoyance.

  • Philip Jul 17, 2010

    http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb... Here are some listing the same problem with the Goodyear.
    Gates has been making belts for 100 years. SummitRacing has the G.Y. @ $34, $20 cheaper than the one Gate's belt I bought and the five replaced by warranty (free).
    Goodyear warranty is if belt ever "wears" out, I find the nearest Goodyear Dealer for a replacement. The belt isn't wore out, thus I wouldn't receive another belt for this problem. Goodyear has been making belts for how long? I'd like to close this ask for a fix as not fixable.

    The first answer, the guy was working on a mid 80's or older vehicle. The second gent knew what I was going through but had only a guess (I have spent too much already on this). Now it's a Goodyear belt, no, the link pasted on verses has the Goodyear doing what I am experiencing already. To the second Gent, sir thank you for your time and understanding!!

×

Ad

5 Answers

  • Level 1:

    An expert who has achieved level 1.

  • Contributor
  • 1 Answer

I own the exact same vehicle,and have the same symptoms.It is a design flaw by Chevrolet,but I have found a cheap solution that works well...get some cheap sidewalk chalk,rub the stick on the belt,it will instantly silence the squealing.While not a "permanent" fix, it is fast and easy,hope this helps you.

Posted on Dec 28, 2010

Ad
  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    Superstar:

    An expert that got 20 achievements.

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

  • Chevrolet Master
  • 2,359 Answers

I have a '05 Chevrolet Z-71 w/ 5.3, replaced water - edf5d5e.jpg Harmonic balancer / main pulley is the only item you did not address.
Start the truck and inspect all pulleys for off balance movement.

The harmonic balancer pulley / main pulley is the lowest one on the pulley system.
The squawl nosie is cause by burn rubber the stuck on the pulley(s). You have to take your time and clean each pulleys for burn/melted rubber.
CLEAN ALL OF THEM
==
Are you ran addition electrical load like amps and large audio system?
Additional power load can cause alternator to generate more heat.
Turn on all electrical items and listen for noise from your alternator pulley.
===
Did you purge the air pocket out of the cooling system?
Filling the cooling system too fast can leave an air pocket.
Not a likely cause of noise but it good to make sure the cooling system is top off correctly when it's cold.
====
The tensioner pulley is manufacture at south of the boarder and I had a lot of return on this part.
Turn the bolt on the pulley and make sure it's provide a smooth swing movement.
====
Please do a good cleaning job on all pulley and inspect for off balance movement on all pulleys.
You may email me for follow up question.






Posted on Jul 17, 2010

  • 5 more comments 
  • Philip Jul 17, 2010

    Harmonic balancer / main pulley is the only item you did not address.
    Start the truck and inspect all pulleys for off balance movement. Yes, you are correct I did not name it in my second responce...but all pulleys were cleaned with soap, water, and scotch-brite (Power Steering too)

    The harmonic balancer pulley / main pulley is the lowest one on the pulley system.
    The squawl nosie is cause by burn rubber the stuck on the pulley(s). You have to take your time and clean each pulleys for burn/melted rubber.
    CLEAN ALL OF THEM Read above and second responce please
    ==
    Are you ran addition electrical load like amps and large audio system? NO
    Additional power load can cause alternator to generate more heat.
    Turn on all electrical items and listen for noise from your alternator pulley. REPLACED and noted in second responce
    ===
    Did you purge the air pocket out of the cooling system? Rocked the engine side to side, not my first rodeo...
    Filling the cooling system too fast can leave an air pocket.
    Not a likely cause of noise but it good to make sure the cooling system is top off correctly when it's cold.
    ====
    The tensioner pulley is manufacture at south of the boarder and I had a lot of return on this part.
    Turn the bolt on the pulley and make sure it's provide a smooth swing movement. NO binding
    ====
    Please do a good cleaning job on all pulley and inspect for off balance movement on all pulleys.
    You may email me for follow up question. Read priors please, I don't mean to be nasty and ungrateful...I've asked for this to be removed. The first person was/is stuck in mid 80's and earlier. The second was smart and agreed that I'd covered all bases, that the tensioner might be it (but after sinking so much money into this, I can here for a fix).



    Please forgive my responces especially if priors aren't available to be viewed (if they are, then if my wording was not understandable...apologies).



    Again, I have asked the site to drop this because of the answers (guesses or opinions) and not a known FIX.

  • Vincent_G
    Vincent_G Jul 17, 2010

    As a long shot,just in case you has access to these high end tools.

    Use an IR non-contact thermometer and seek for hot spots on the pulley system.



    If you have any connection to fire department or a large industrial plant. They may has a high end Fluke Thermo imager.

    Sample picture from the Internet



    At the time of my posting,there is no comment about the 1st poster comment.

    Fixya does not post comment any past comment(s) when the next person post a respone.



  • Philip Jul 17, 2010

    First answer



    dj_relly999 First, here’s the mid ‘80s and earlier...!




    Rank: Wiz Expert
    Rating: 84.36% , 479 votes








    Hi! Try to loosen the belt a little. If the belt is too tight it damages the bearings including the belt itself for it is in stress. Try it and see how it goes. Hope this helps and have a good one!


    Jul 13, 2010

    - Good day! Try it and it may resolve the problem.

  • Philip Jul 17, 2010

    Solution #2

    posted on Jul 13, 2010








    clay58 Second...good guy




    Rank: Guru Expert
    Rating: 90.20% , 872 votes








    Have you checked for a foreign object stuck in the pulley groves? A tiny rock will cause the belt to fail over time. The tensioner could of course be too strong but you replaced it with a new one so that would not appear to be the problem. You also replaced the alternator but was it a rebuilt alternator? If so, look at the pulley very closely. Make sure the alternator is aligned perfectly with the other pulleys. One of the pulleys is more than likely out of alignment or it is damaged. This is especially common on plastic pulleys. Is the tensioner pulley hitting the belt dead center? If not shim it or remove a washer to align it. The only other thing I can think of is that when you replace parts you left a washer off one of them. This would cause them to be out of alignment.


    Jul 13, 2010

    - The tensioner was not replaced, only the "pulleys". All surfaces have been cleaned with dawn, red scotch-brite, and brake cleaner...so there isn't any F.O.D. I purchased the truck with 43K and did 1500 mile bouts N.M. to W.A. (non-stop). First trip belt was fine, back fine upto 100 miles out and then the noise. Using a pipe, it was the pulley on the tensioner (least that's where it was the loudest). Replaced pulley, noise still there. Replaced the idler pulley. Noise still there. Water pump had what felt as wet spot where the conventional "wear-out" hole would be to let you know to replace the water pump. So I replaced, it wasn't coolant, oil apparently from front seal (I've seen vehicles that pour oil out the front and the belt doesn't make noise). That did not fix it (remove noise) and then I noticed that the voltage gage would show high 13 to 14 and then drop under 12. Great! so I replaced it and bought new belt.
    Noise was gone, I was HAPPY...about a thousand into trip to WA the noise started again. I was desperate, so I bought another idler pulley, because that's where the noise was, I hit the pulley with silicone spray and the noise went away. That is why I bought that pulley again. No change. So I have been replacing the belt (being Gates and from O'Reilly's, it's free. But I am feeling guilty and frustrated with this).
    Now, as I had written first time, I have made the belt narrower by a groove on the front and on the back. Cleaned the belt with soap, water, and scotch-bright...no noise so far. On the belts that I replaced, there was an odd "wear" (front of belt had maybe 1/8" of discoloration, blacker than rest of belt, like a wear). The pulleys when a laser pen is set against, don't reflect misalignment.

    Man, I am at wits end. I know if taken to shop, new belt, no noise at that point in time, huge bill, and once I am on road again...I'll have the noise and shop won't be where I am. My thought is that the spring on the tensioner is too strong, but why wait until 43K to start messing with the belt. The A/C belt almost flops around down there and I had a kid from O'reilly's tell me I didn't know what I was talking about, it wasn't the belt I was asking for, it was the A/C's. Grinning, I pulled the main belt, started engine, revved, no noise, no apology either, but he did give new belt on warranty.

    New tensioner is $88 and dealer only, already sank a lot into this belt problem and it's not a for sure/end fix. I do have a torque wrench that I can gage the tension, but don't have what it's supposed to be. I can't think of any other details that can aid you in helping me.

    Thanks, Philip


    Jul 13, 2010

    - Philip, I feel for you. You have done just about everything you can do short of replacing the tensioner itself. IMO, that is about all that is left to do. I know there is no guarantee that will fix the problem but you seem very knowledgable and really what else can it be other than a bad tensioner. You can get a new tensioner at 1A Auto for $54.95 with free shipping. Call them at 1-888-844-3393.

  • Philip Jul 17, 2010

    jsmes1027 (third) Replied with a Goodyear vs Gates belts, link stated that people were having the problem with this belt (Gates have been in the belt business for 100 years!!!)



    I have had a similiar issue on my Grand Prix sqealing every 500 to 1000 miles. I went through about 4 belts until I got fed up with the dealer putting on the same belt again and again every 500-1000.I was under warranty at the time and decided to handle it my way.At the time the vehicle had roughly 5000 miles on it.My solution I special ordered the Goodyear Gatorback for the supercharger and the for the main drive belt.Now at 30000 miles still have not heard a peep out of the belt. The Gatorback is one the best belts available. I purchased mine through an Autozone.The belts will widen slightly do to wear and stretching. Before trying anything else.I highly suggest trying first we have resolved this problem at the dealership this way.


    Jul 17, 2010

    - The main engine culprit was the GM 5.3L

    Jul 17, 2010

    - We have also resolved 4.3 constant belts squeals with Gatorbacks.

    Jul 17, 2010

    - http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/2...
    These belts are available for this vehicle




    I didn't save my replies and this one does not show what I sent back. It was a link Goodyear VS Gates, a few on there had the problem with the Goodyear belt. I've been Gates life long and they have been belts for 100 years. There was more info like his belt was $20 cheaper, for warranty it had to "wear" out and then taken to a Goodyear dealer for replacement.



    I again apologize for how rude I had been to you, here you are trying to help and being polite. I have asked Fixya twice to drop this (discontinue or refund). I am just getting guesses (except this last you've sent) and I have already sunk too much into it for another guess. *Going not to read in full your reply*, ok...not much more added. I don't have an IR gun, this is where it'd be a dealer gotcha by the and I was travelling from ABQ, NM to Everett, WA, now it's ABQ, NM to Las Cruses, NM...my thoughts of shops aren't high and a new belt thrown on will make the noise disappear. So until miles are put onto it I won't know if they just did a belt or what...



    I have a belt on it now that is two "grooves" skinnier and nested in middle of the grooved pulleys. I have 163 miles on it now with out the noise. I have another, old belt that squawled and a 15mm on a 3" ext and 1/2" dr ratchet in the truck...just in case there is too much tension and it breaks. I have hit prior belts with "Stop Belt Noise" (red can, black and white labelling and words) only to worsen the problem.

  • Philip Jul 17, 2010

    I have hit the pulleys and belt with silicone spray, hitting the tensioner pulley made the noise go away. I was in WA, I had already replace that pulley, but hey silicone on it-noiseless: maybe bad part off of shelf. Bought that pulley again, installed in O'Reilly's parking lot, in the rain, started it, NOISE!



    As typed earlier, I have asked FixYA to stop this posting. You are a good person to have been "spat upon" and still return to offer help. I am so sorry, that's not my way, I just had enough and was ignorant of FixYa process...they SHOULD post all info to a problem that has been "laid-out" already. It'd share time (& shame). Thanks for hanging in there and I hope what I have sent you kind of shows that I've hit all the basics and then some, thrown a lot of money and time to no fix. I really believe that the tensioner has too much "spring" on it, but why wait for 46K or so miles to manifest. Bought with 43K, so this could of been a prior condition. I don't know and am not asking for you to spend anymore time on it. I am just laying all out on this and my apology. Philip

  • Vincent_G
    Vincent_G Jul 17, 2010

    Keep monitor fluid levels (oil and power steering) and liquid drips on the floor under the front seal and pulley system.

    Few drips of oil and/or power steering fluid will cause slippage and noise.








×

Ad
  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

    President:

    An expert whose answer got voted for 500 times.

  • Master
  • 749 Answers

I have had a similiar issue on my Grand Prix sqealing every 500 to 1000 miles. I went through about 4 belts until I got fed up with the dealer putting on the same belt again and again every 500-1000.I was under warranty at the time and decided to handle it my way.At the time the vehicle had roughly 5000 miles on it.My solution I special ordered the Goodyear Gatorback for the supercharger and the for the main drive belt.Now at 30000 miles still have not heard a peep out of the belt. The Gatorback is one the best belts available. I purchased mine through an Autozone.The belts will widen slightly do to wear and stretching. Before trying anything else.I highly suggest trying first we have resolved this problem at the dealership this way.

Posted on Jul 17, 2010

  • 2 more comments 
  • Jonathan S
    Jonathan S Jul 17, 2010

    The main engine culprit was the GM 5.3L

  • Jonathan S
    Jonathan S Jul 17, 2010

    We have also resolved 4.3 constant belts squeals with Gatorbacks.

  • Jonathan S
    Jonathan S Jul 17, 2010
  • Jonathan S
    Jonathan S Jul 18, 2010

    I sincerely understand your frustration because of the same issue I have had myself I should have never had to pay for my own belts especially while it was under warranty and even had a technical service bulletin posted about it.It's pretty aggravating and spending money that you shouldn't have to gets old. I have replaced these with the gates belts and have had them back in two to three days for the same sqealing issues. I don't necessarily have a problem with gates belts but for some vehicles they just do not work.

×

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    Superstar:

    An expert that got 20 achievements.

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

  • Master
  • 2,841 Answers

Have you checked for a foreign object stuck in the pulley groves? A tiny rock will cause the belt to fail over time. The tensioner could of course be too strong but you replaced it with a new one so that would not appear to be the problem. You also replaced the alternator but was it a rebuilt alternator? If so, look at the pulley very closely. Make sure the alternator is aligned perfectly with the other pulleys. One of the pulleys is more than likely out of alignment or it is damaged. This is especially common on plastic pulleys. Is the tensioner pulley hitting the belt dead center? If not shim it or remove a washer to align it. The only other thing I can think of is that when you replace parts you left a washer off one of them. This would cause them to be out of alignment.

Posted on Jul 13, 2010

  • 1 more comment 
  • Philip Jul 13, 2010

    The tensioner was not replaced, only the "pulleys". All surfaces have been cleaned with dawn, red scotch-brite, and brake cleaner...so there isn't any F.O.D. I purchased the truck with 43K and did 1500 mile bouts N.M. to W.A. (non-stop). First trip belt was fine, back fine upto 100 miles out and then the noise. Using a pipe, it was the pulley on the tensioner (least that's where it was the loudest). Replaced pulley, noise still there. Replaced the idler pulley. Noise still there. Water pump had what felt as wet spot where the conventional "wear-out" hole would be to let you know to replace the water pump. So I replaced, it wasn't coolant, oil apparently from front seal (I've seen vehicles that pour oil out the front and the belt doesn't make noise). That did not fix it (remove noise) and then I noticed that the voltage gage would show high 13 to 14 and then drop under 12. Great! so I replaced it and bought new belt.

    Noise was gone, I was HAPPY...about a thousand into trip to WA the noise started again. I was desperate, so I bought another idler pulley, because that's where the noise was, I hit the pulley with silicone spray and the noise went away. That is why I bought that pulley again. No change. So I have been replacing the belt (being Gates and from O'Reilly's, it's free. But I am feeling guilty and frustrated with this).

    Now, as I had written first time, I have made the belt narrower by a groove on the front and on the back. Cleaned the belt with soap, water, and scotch-bright...no noise so far. On the belts that I replaced, there was an odd "wear" (front of belt had maybe 1/8" of discoloration, blacker than rest of belt, like a wear). The pulleys when a laser pen is set against, don't reflect misalignment.



    Man, I am at wits end. I know if taken to shop, new belt, no noise at that point in time, huge bill, and once I am on road again...I'll have the noise and shop won't be where I am. My thought is that the spring on the tensioner is too strong, but why wait until 43K to start messing with the belt. The A/C belt almost flops around down there and I had a kid from O'reilly's tell me I didn't know what I was talking about, it wasn't the belt I was asking for, it was the A/C's. Grinning, I pulled the main belt, started engine, revved, no noise, no apology either, but he did give new belt on warranty.



    New tensioner is $88 and dealer only, already sank a lot into this belt problem and it's not a for sure/end fix. I do have a torque wrench that I can gage the tension, but don't have what it's supposed to be. I can't think of any other details that can aid you in helping me.



    Thanks, Philip

  • NOT ME Jul 13, 2010

    Philip, I feel for you. You have done just about everything you can do short of replacing the tensioner itself. IMO, that is about all that is left to do. I know there is no guarantee that will fix the problem but you seem very knowledgable and really what else can it be other than a bad tensioner. You can get a new tensioner at 1A Auto for $54.95 with free shipping. Call them at 1-888-844-3393.
    http://www.1aauto.com/1A/SerpentineBeltT...


  • NOT ME Jul 18, 2010

    Philip, I really believe if you replace the tensioner your problem will be solved.

×

  • Level 2:

    An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

    President:

    An expert whose answer got voted for 500 times.

  • Expert
  • 4,070 Answers

Hi! Try to loosen the belt a little. If the belt is too tight it damages the bearings including the belt itself for it is in stress. Try it and see how it goes. Hope this helps and have a good one!

Posted on Jul 13, 2010

  • dj_relly999
    dj_relly999 Jul 13, 2010

    Good day! Try it and it may resolve the problem.

  • dj_relly999
    dj_relly999 Jul 18, 2010

    Hello there! May I know hows it going?

×

1 Suggested Answer

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
New users get 2 Free calls (no credit card required) and instant help on almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, appliances, handyman, and even pets).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

There is a loud noise near the alternator and after it runs it smells like something burning could it be air pump it has fairly new water pump and new alternator


i would check your tensioner and idler pulley. you may have a bad bearing and its dragging the belt causing friction which then creates the burning belt smell. remove your serpentine belt and spin all pulleys by hand p/s, alternator, water pump, tensioner, idler, a/c. if the pulley is stiff or feels rough then thats the component at fault and you would need to replace that certain component and its also best practice to replace your belt now too.

Aug 30, 2014 | 1998 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

Change water pump


no year, stated, nor engine option so all answers will be weak to useless..... posting country helps too as other countries use different engine.... so....... be the first ever in 8000 post to do that... ill be shocked.
its in the book, its not simple like my jeeps.
its a PITA.
but you can read the words, all of them all the steps
in the FSM or at alldata.com

i log in , and put in year, and camry.
i pick cooling , i pick 1mZ engine.
i then see?///??????? (random pasted) you can too, or get and FSM.

1MZ-FE And 3MZ-FE Engines
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
  2. Drain the cooling system.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Negative battery cable
    • RH front wheel
    • RH fender apron seal
    • A/C drive belt
    • PS drive belt
    • Engine stabilizer control rod
    • RH engine stay
    • Alternator bracket #2
    • Crankshaft pulley
    • Both timing belt covers
    • RH engine mounting bracket
    • Timing belt cover 1 and 2
    • Timing belt, guide and idler pulley sub-assembly #1
    • Camshaft timing pulleys and idler pulley sub-assembly #2
    • Timing belt cover #3
    • Water pump assembly
To install:
  1. Install or connect the following:
    • Water pump assembly with new gasket. Torque to 71 inch lbs. (8 Nm).
    • Timing belt idler #1. Torque to 25 ft. lbs (24 Nm).
    • Timing belt cover #3
    • Camshaft timing pulleys
    • Timing belt idler sub-assembly
    • Timing belt, tensioner assembly and guide
    • Engine mounting bracket
    • Upper and lower timing belts covers
    • Crankshaft pulley
    • Alternator bracket
    • Engine mounting stay
    • Engine stabilizing control rod
    • PS pump
    • A/C drive belt
    • Inspect drive belt tension
    • Right front wheel
    • Negative battery cable
  2. Refill the cooling system to the correct level.
  3. Start the engine and check for leaks.

on my car , belt off, pump out, and in, done.

Dec 13, 2013 | Toyota Camry Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to change the water pump on a 2006 equinox ls


  1. Drain the cooling system until the coolant is below the level of the water pump.
  2. Loosen the water pump pulley bolts.
  3. Rotate the drive belt tensioner to release the tension on the drive belt.
  4. Remove the drive belt from the right idler pulley.
  5. Carefully release the drive belt tensioner spring tension.
  6. Remove the water pump pulley bolts.
  7. Remove the water pump pulley.
  8. Remove the water pump bolts.
  9. Remove the water pump.
  10. Remove the water pump gasket.
  11. Clean the water pump mating surfaces.

To install:

Fig. Remove the mounting bolts (3) to remove the water pump (1) and gasket (2).
  1. Install the water pump gasket (2).
  2. Install the water pump (1).
  3. Install the water pump bolts (3). Tighten the bolts to 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.).
  4. Install the water pump pulley. Loosely install the pulley bolts.
  5. Insure the drive belt is properly centered on all the pulleys except the right idler puller.
  6. Rotate the drive belt tensioner away from the drive belt.
  7. Install the drive belt to the right idler pulley.
  8. Release the tensioner allowing the drive belt tensioner to come in contact with the drive belt.
  9. Inspect the drive belt to insure the belt is properly centered on all the pulleys.
  10. Tighten the water pump pulley bolts. Tighten the bolts to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
  11. Fill the cooling system.
  12. Inspect the cooling system for leaks.


10177766-xy2b1ep4azxtiqpd5mnkcpdl-4-0.jpg

10177766-xy2b1ep4azxtiqpd5mnkcpdl-4-1.gif

Aug 21, 2011 | 2006 Chevrolet Equinox

3 Answers

Apparently the serpentine belt was thrown off my 1998 Mercury Mystique. It appears in good condition. Should it be replaced or can it be reused? Also, do you have a belt diagram? Thank-you.


You can reuse it. But you need to find out why it was thrown off. Check all the pullies by grabbing them and checking for side to side movement, With the exception of the power steering pump pulley (which has some in and out play) they all should have no play. Just turn in nice smooth circles. Sorry I don't have the diagram, but there should be one under the hood. Sometimes on the bottom of the hood.

May 22, 2011 | Mercury Mystique Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Serptine belt diagram


q4073a.gif



Belt Installation, Aerostar 4.0L Engine


q1815e.gif


Item Part Number Description 1 8620 Drive Belt 2 N606068 Bolt 3 10300 Generator 4 10153 Generator Mounting Bracket 5 8509 Water Pump Pulley 6 6B209 Drive Belt Tensioner 7 N800199 Screw 8 8678 Belt Idler Pulley 9 N802096 Screw 10 19703 A/C Compressor 11 2882 A/C Compressor Mounting Bracket 12 3C718 Brace 13 N806020 Bolt 14 3A674 Power Steering Pump 15 3A733 Power Steering Pump Pulley 16 N800199 Screw 17 N606572 Bolt 18 N620481 Nut 19 8501 Water Pump 20 6312 Crankshaft Pulley A - Belt Tension Check (See Specifications) B - Tighten to 40-55 Nm
(30-41 Lb-Ft) C - Tighten to 24-30 Nm
(18-23 Lb-Ft) D - Tighten to 21-29 Nm
(15-21 Lb-Ft) E - Tighten to 40-50 Nm
(30-37 Lb-Ft)

Belt Installation, Ranger and Explorer 4.0L Engine


q4082b.gif


Item Part Number Description 1 8620 Drive Belt 2 10300 Generator 3 8678 Belt Idler Pulley 4 19703 A/C Compressor 5 3A733 Power Steering Pump Pulley 6 8501 Water Pump 7 6312 Crankshaft Pulley 8 6B209 Drive Belt Tensioner 9 N806020 Bolt 10 2882 A/C Compressor Mounting Bracket 11 3A674 Power Steering Pump 12 N606572-S2 Bolt 13 N800199-S8M Bolt 14 N620481-S2 Nut 15 3C718 Brace 16 N606068 Bolt 17 10153 Generator Mounting Bracket 18 8509 Water Pump Pulley 19 N605805-S2 Bolt A - Belt Tension Check (See Specifications) B - Tighten to 21-29 Nm
(15-21 Lb-Ft) C - Tighten to 40-55 Nm
(30-41 Lb-Ft)

Belt Installation, Ranger 2.3L Engine


q3646c.gif


Item Part Number Description 1 8678 Belt Idler Pulley 2 10300 Generator 3 8509 Water Pump Pulley 4 3A733 Power Steering Pump Pulley 5 2E884 A/C Clutch Pulley 6 6312 Crankshaft Pulley

Belt Installation, Aerostar 3.0L Engine


q4740a.gif


Item Part Number Description 1 10300 Generator 2 3F671 Belt Idler Pulley 3 3A733 Power Steering Pump Pulley 4 6B209 Drive Belt Tensioner 5 6312 Crankshaft Pulley 6 8509 Water Pump Pulley 7 19703 A/C Compressor 2010&c18=modelyear&c35=wsm%2cdrive%20belt%20replacement%2cssk%2c03-05%2cremoval%20and%20installation&s=1366x768&c=32&j=1.3&v=y&k=y&bw=995&bh=405&ct=lan&hp=n&[aqe]

Mar 07, 2011 | 1995 Ford Aerostar

1 Answer

Removing power steering pump from v8 windsor


Section 11-02A: Steering Pump, Power, C-II 1996 Aerostar, Ranger and Explorer Vehicles Workshop Manual REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Pump and Pulley SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED Description Tool Number Steering Pump Pulley Remover T69L-10300-B Steering Pump Pulley Replacer T65P-3A733-C
Removal
  1. Disconnect the power steering return hose (3A713) at the pump and drain fluid.
  1. Remove the power steering pressure hose (3A719) by unscrewing connector from the pump.
  1. On the Aerostar 3.0L V-6 engine (6007), loosen the drive belt tensioner (6B209) and adjustment bolts.





    Item Part Number Description 1 10346 Generator 2 8501 Water Pump 3 8678 Belt Idler Pulley 4 3A733 Power Steering Pump Pulley 5 6303 Crankshaft 6 2884 A/C Clutch 7 — Without A/C On the 2.3L I-4 and 4.0L V-6 engines, slacken belt tension by lifting drive belt tensioner in a counterclockwise direction. On Ranger 3.0L V-6 engines, slacken belt tension by lifting drive belt tensioner in a clockwise direction. Remove drive belt (8620) from under drive belt tensioner and slowly lower pulley to stop. Remove the drive belt from the power steering pump pulley (3A733).





    Item Part Number Description 1 10346 Generator 2 2884 A/C Clutch 3 3A733 Power Steering Pump Pulley 4 8501 Water Pump 5 6303 Crankshaft 6 8678 Belt Idler Pulley 7 6B209 Drive Belt Tensioner
  1. NOTE: If the drive belt requires servicing, refer to Section 03-05 .

    Remove the drive belt from the power steering pump pulley.
  1. Remove the oil dipstick tube.
  1. Remove the power steering pump support (3C511).
  1. Install Steering Pump Pulley Remover T69L-10300-B on the pulley.
  1. NOTE: Do not apply pressure on the power steering pump rotor shaft (3B559). Pressure will damage internal thrust areas of the power steering pump (3A674).

    While holding the remover tool nut stationary with a wrench, rotate the inner spindle of the remover tool clockwise until the pulley is pulled off the power steering pump rotor shaft.
  1. Remove the bolts attaching the power steering pump to the A/C compressor mounting bracket (2882).
Installation
  1. Install the power steering pump on the A/C compressor mounting bracket. Install and tighten attaching bolts to 41-61 Nm (30-45 lb-ft). On 4.0L engine, tighten to 47-64 Nm (35-47 lb-ft).
  1. Position the support on the A/C compressor mounting bracket. Install mounting bolts and tighten to 47-64 Nm (35-47 lb-ft).
  1. NOTE: Fore/aft location of power steering pump pulley on power steering pump rotor shaft is critical. Incorrect belt alignment may cause drive belt squeal or chirp. Make sure pull-off groove on power steering pump pulley is facing front and flush with end of shaft ± 0.254mm (± 0.010 inch).

    Install the Steering Pump Pulley Replacer T65P-3A733-C and install the power steering pump pulley.
  1. Install the drive belt on the power steering pump pulley.
  1. On the 2.3L I-4, Ranger 3.0L V-6, and 4.0L V-6 engines, position and rotate drive belt on engine. While lifting drive belt tensioner in a counterclockwise direction (clockwise on Ranger 3.0L V-6), slide drive belt under drive belt tensioner and lower drive belt tensioner to drive belt.
    On Aerostar 3.0L V-6 engine, position the belt idler pulley (8678) assembly to give the drive belt the tension specified. Refer to belt tension check in Section 03-05 . Tighten the drive belt tensioner and adjustment bolts to 47-64 Nm (35-47 lb-ft).
  1. Install the power steering pump support, if removed.
  1. Install the oil dipstick tube.
  1. Install the pressure hose tube nut and new Teflon® wagner into power steering pump valve outlet fitting (3D654) and tighten to 41-54 Nm (30-40 lb-ft).
  1. Connect the power steering return hose to the power steering pump, and reposition the clamp.
  1. Fill the power steering oil reservoir (3A697) with Premium Power Steering Fluid E6AZ-19582-AA or equivalent fluid meeting specification ESW-M2C33-F. Start the engine and turn the steering wheel (3600) from left to right without hitting stops to remove air from the system.
  1. Check for leaks and recheck the fluid level. Add fluid if necessary to proper level as specified in Section 11-00 .


    Power Steering Pump and Power Steering Pulley, 2.3L TPH Engine, Ranger Only





    Item Part Number Description 1 2882 A/C Compressor Mounting Bracket 2 N606543-S2 Bolt (2 Req'd) 3 N606069-S2 Bolt (2 Req'd) 4 N605803-S2 Bolt 5 N800199-S8M Screw 6 3D673 Power Steering Pump Pulley 7 3F671 Power Steering Belt Idler Support 8 N806020-S2 Bolt 9 3A674 Power Steering Pump 10 19703 A/C Compressor A — Tighten to 21.2-29 Nm (16-21 Lb-Ft) B — Tighten to 40.3-55 Nm (30-41 Lb-Ft) C — Tighten to 44-51 Nm
    (32-38 Lb-Ft)

    Power Steering Pump and Power Steering Pulley, 3.0L Engine, Aerostar





    Item Part Number Description 1 3A674 Power Steering Pump 2 3C511 Power Steering Pump Support 3 6007 Engine 4 N803564 Stud 5 N802827-S2 Nut 6 N800199-S8M Screw (3 Req'd) 7 N8011179-S2 Screw (3 Req'd) 8

Jun 09, 2010 | 1996 Ford Explorer

1 Answer

Belt diagram


2 valve




3186cf9.gif
Item Part Number Description 1 8679 Belt idler pulley 2 10344 Generator pulley 3 8620 Drive belt 4 3A733 Power steering pump pulley 5 6312 Crankshaft pulley 6 8509 Water pump pulley 7 2E884 A/C clutch pulley 8 6B209 Drive belt tensioner pulley
------------------------------------------------------------------------
4 valve

74aa6ac.gif
Item Part Number Description 1 19A216 Belt idler pulley 2 10300 Generator clutch pulley 3 8620 Drive belt 4 3A733 Power steering pump pulley 5 6316 Crankshaft pulley 6 8A528 Water pump pulley 7 19D692 A/C clutch pulley 8 6B209 Drive belt tensioner pulley 9 19A216 Belt idler pulley

Oct 26, 2009 | 2003 Mercury Grand Marquis

1 Answer

Cant find 97 ford taurus serpentine belt diagram


Drive Belt Replacement ani_caut.gif WARNING: IF EQUIPPED, DO NOT ALLOW DRIVE BELT TENSIONER (6B209) TO SNAP BACK AS DAMAGE TO DRIVE BELT TENSIONER OR PERSONAL INJURY COULD RESULT.
NOTE: Minor cracks in the V-grooved portion of the serpentine drive belt (8620) are considered normal and acceptable. If the drive belt has chunks missing from the ribs, the drive belt should be replaced.

NOTE: Conditions requiring drive belt replacement are excessive wear, rib chunk-out, severe glazing, frayed cords or other conditions. Replace any drive belt exhibiting any of these conditions.

NOTE: When installing drive belt on pulley, make sure that all V-grooves make proper contact with pulleys.



q1834c.gif

Drive Belt, Serpentine—Except SHO
Removal
  1. ani_caut.gif WARNING: USE CAUTION WHEN REMOVING OR INSTALLING DRIVE BELT TO MAKE SURE THAT TOOL DOES NOT SLIP FROM DRIVE BELT TENSIONER OR PERSONAL INJURY AND/OR DAMAGE TO DRIVE BELT TENSIONER AND DRIVE BELT MAY OCCUR.
    Using a 15 mm socket or wrench on bolt attaching drive belt tensioner pulley, rotate drive belt tensioner clockwise on 3.0L (2V) and 3.0L (2V) FF, rotate the drive belt tensioner counter clockwise on 3.0L (4V) to remove drive belt from pulleys. Make sure spring keeper engages into slot.


    Drive Belt Tensioner—3.0L (4V)


    q3759a.gif

Installation
  1. Install drive belt over all pulleys (except drive belt tensioner).
  1. Rotate drive belt tensioner as described under the removal procedure and install drive belt over drive belt tensioner pulley. Make sure that all V-grooves make proper contact with pulleys. Make sure spring keeper releases or improper belt tension will occur.


    Pulley, Routing—Accessory Drive Belt 3.0L (2V)/3.0L (2V) FF Engine


    q3244d.gif


    Item Part Number Description 1 10300 Generator 2 6C348 Idler Pulley 3 3A674 Power Steering Pump 4 19703 A/C Compressor 5 6312 Crankshaft Pulley 6 6B209 Drive Belt Tensioner 7 8501 Water Pump 8 8620 Drive Belt

    Pulley, Routing—Accessory Drive Belt 3.0L (4V)


    q3735a.gif


    Item Part Number Description 1 3A674 Power Steering Pump 2 8501 Water Pump 3 19703 A/C Compressor 4 8620 Drive Belt 5 6312 Crankshaft Pulley 6 6B209 Drive Belt Tensioner 7 10300 Generator
3.4L SHO Engine
Removal
  1. Remove the right front wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 04-04.
  1. Remove the inner fender splash shield.
  1. Remove the alternator shield.
  1. ani_caut.gif WARNING: USE CAUTION WHEN REMOVING OR INSTALLING DRIVE BELT TO MAKE SURE WRENCH DOES NOT SLIP FROMDRIVE BELT TENSIONER OR POSSIBLE PERSONAL INJURY AND/OR DAMAGE TO DRIVE BELT TENSIONER AND DRIVE BELT MAY OCCUR.
    Using a 3/8 inch ratchet on the lifting lug, rotate drive belt tensioner counterclockwise (upward) and engage spring keeper. Remove drive belt from drive belt tensioner.
  1. Lower vehicle.
  1. Remove drive belt.
Installation
  1. Install drive belt over all pulleys (except drive belt tensioner ).
  1. Raise vehicle on hoist.
  1. Rotate drive belt tensioner , as described under Removal procedure and install drive belt over drive belt tensioner pulley. Make sure all V-grooves make proper contact with pulleys. Make sure the spring keeper is released or improper belt tension will occur.
  1. Install the alternator shield.
  1. Install the inner fender splash shield.
  1. Install the wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 04-04.


    Pulley Routing—Accessory Drive Belt, 3.4L SHO


    q3736a.gif


    Item Part Number Description 1 3A733 Power Steering Pump Pulley 2 6B217 (RH) Idler Pulley 3 19703 A/C Compressor 4 8620 Drive Belt 5 6312 Crankshaft Pulley 6 6B209 Drive Belt Tensioner 7 10346 Generator 8 6B217 (LH) Idler Pulley 9 6B217 (Center) Idler Pulley
Drive Belt, Water Pump
Removal
  1. NOTE: If removal of the water pump drive pulley is required, refer to Section 03-03.

    Rotate drive belt tensioner clockwise by hand and remove drive belt from drive belt tensioner .
  1. Remove drive belt from water pump drive pulley and water pump pulley.
Installation
  1. Position drive belt onto water pump drive pulley and water pump pulley.
  1. Rotate drive belt tensioner clockwise by hand and install drive belt over top of drive belt tensioner pulley. Make sure all V-grooves make proper contact with pulleys.


    Pulley Routing—Water Pump Drive Belt


    q3737a.gif


    Item Part Number Description 1 6B209 Drive Belt Tensioner 2 6A312 Crankshaft Pulley 3 8501 Water Pump 4 8620 Drive Belt

Jun 01, 2009 | 1997 Ford Taurus

2 Answers

I need instructions on replacing the timing belt


1. Remove the Alternator Belt.
2. Remove the Water Pump Pulley
3. Remove the Air Conditioner Belt and Power Steering Belt.
4. Remove the Crankshaft Pulley.
5. Remove the timing belt cover
6. Remove the timing belt tensioner pulley.
7. Remove the Timing Belt.
8. (If Replacing) Remove Idler Pulley.
Installation is reverse of removal. Keep a close eye on the timing marks on the cam sprockets to make sure you don't knock anything out of whack.

I would strongly recommend replacing the water pump while you are replacing the timing belt. (The water pump usually comes in the timing belt kit.) Otherwise you are going to have to do this all over again when your water pump goes out. Good Luck.

Nov 10, 2008 | 2004 Hyundai Tiburon

1 Answer

Serpentine belt diagram for a 5.9 diesel with air and 9 pulleys


5.9L DIESEL
196759.jpg The 5.9L diesel engine accessory drive system (with a/c) consists of :
  1. Generator Pulley (1)
  2. Water Pump Pulley (2)
  3. Idler Pulley (3)
  4. Power Steering Pump Pulley (4)
  5. Radiator Fan Pulley (5)
  6. Crankshaft Pulley (6)
  7. Automatic Tensioner (7)
  8. A/C Compressor Pump Pulley (8)
CAUTION: When installing the accessory drive belt, the belt must be routed correctly. If not, engine may overheat due to water pump rotating in wrong direction. Refer to or for correct engine belt routing. The correct belt with correct length must be used.
1. Position drive belt over all pulleys except water pump pulley. 2. Attach a 1/2 inch ratchet to tensioner.


196757.jpg The 5.9L diesel engine accessory drive system (without a/c) consists of :
  1. Generator Pulley (1)
  2. Water Pump Pulley (2)
  3. Idler Pulley (3)
  4. Power Steering Pump Pulley (4)
  5. Radiator Fan Pulley (5)
  6. Crankshaft Pulley (6)
  7. Automatic Tensioner (7)
3. Rotate ratchet and belt tensioner clockwise. Place belt over water pump pulley. Let tensioner rotate back into place. Remove ratchet. Be sure belt is properly seated on all pulleys.

Sep 13, 2008 | 2008 Dodge Ram 3500

Not finding what you are looking for?
2005 Chevrolet Silverado Logo

402 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Chevrolet Experts

yadayada
yadayada

Level 3 Expert

76649 Answers

Colin Stickland
Colin Stickland

Level 3 Expert

22219 Answers

Jeff Turcotte
Jeff Turcotte

Level 3 Expert

8518 Answers

Are you a Chevrolet Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...