Question about 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
a slim jim is not a good ideal to be using in todays cars and trucks with airbags everywhere and wires inside doors..call a pro and if he pulls out a slim jim send him packin...there a re far better tools to use than a slim jim
Posted on Oct 25, 2008
I'm going to assume that you have a 4.0 L6 (inline 6) engine) since that's the most common one. If not, most of instructions are the same. 1. With engine cool, or, pressure out of system, radiator cap off, remove both hoses from thermostat housing (top radiator hose connects directly to housing on front of engine). 2. carefully scrape all gasket material from housing and block. Make note of how the thermostat was installed (end with spring goes into the engine block). Since installation is vertical, I usually use silicone glue on gasket, installing thermostat into housing first, then applying gasket to housing, so that it will hold the stat in place when installing to block. (let glue dry for a while). 3. Put a thin film of silicone on engine side of gasket, position assembly on block and put in the easiest to access bolt, finger tight. Be careful not to move assembly around too much or you may cause the thermostat to go out of position. Put in the second bolt, again, finger tight. When both bolts are installed, tighten each, going back and forth, taking up tension equally (don't tighten one, then the other one all at once). 4. replace both hoses, fill to replace any coolant lost (usually not very much). Start engine and run with cap off radiator and heater full "on". Watch temp gauge.When up to operating temp, add more coolant if necessary. (also monitor radiator during this stage for overflow or overheating. it is sometimes necessary to intermittently add some coolant while engine is coming up to temp. as some overflow is normal). 5. close cap and run for several more minutes. Check hoses and therm gasket for seepage. Some re-tightening may be necessary, but if excessive you may have made a mistake you should not have to "crank down" really hard on any hose clamp or fastener. PS, I usually remove and replace spring type hose clamps with screw type. They are more reliable and easier to work with!
Posted on Dec 16, 2008
Back up a minute...Do you have spark from the coil wire? (juice from coil) If so, change or check rotor and cap (wires do not all go bad at same time so unless they are wet, likely at least good enough to start engine)
Posted on Mar 05, 2009
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he ignition switch generally has four positions: off, accessories, on, and start. Some cars have two off positions, off and lock; one turns off the car, and the other allows the key to be removed from the ignition. When the key is turned to the accessories position, certain accessories, such as the radio, are powered; however, accessories that use too much battery power, such as window motors, remain off in order to prevent the car's battery from being drained. The accessories position uses the least amount of battery power when the engine is not running, which is why drive-in movie theaters recommend that the car be left in theaccessories mode during the movie.
The on position turns on all of the car's systems, including systems such as the fuel pump, because this is the position the ignition switch remains in while the car's engine is running. The start position is spring loaded so that the ignition switch will not remain there when the key is released. When the key is inserted into the ignition switch lock cylinder and turned to the start position, the starter engages; when the key is released, it returns to the on position, cutting power to the starter. This is because the engine runs at speeds that the starter cannot match, meaning that the starter gear must be retracted once the engine is running on its own.
Either the ignition switch or the lock cylinder may fail in a car, but both circumstances have very different symptoms. When the ignition switch fails, generally the electrical wiring or the plastic housing develops problems. The car may not turn on and/or start when this happens. Also, the spring-loaded start position could malfunction, in which case the starter will not engage unless the key is manually turned back to the on position.
When the lock cylinder malfunctions, however, the operation of the key itself will become problematic. If the tumblers become stripped, the lock cylinder may be able to turn with any key, or you may be able to remove the key when the car is on. If the tumblers begin to shift, the lock cylinder may not turn. Sometimes the key can be wiggled until the lock cylinder turns, but it is important to remember that this is only a temporary fix.
Replacing an ignition switch can be tricky business, particularly in newer cars, because of the anti-theft devices used in cars. Once the ignition switch is separated from the back of the lock cylinder, the car can be started with a screwdriver, making it vital that this switch be difficult to get to. It is important to consult a shop manual before attempting this kind of repair, as the anti-theft devices may require special tools; attempting to remove an ignition switch without the proper tools can render the car inoperable.
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