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Alternators are built to to be fitted very quickly on a production line so they usually have a standard way of being wired that you cannot get wrong.
What is the make, model, engine and fuel of the vehicle it is for?
There are usually two connections on an alternator. One smaller set of two or three wires fitted through one connector block that will only fit in one place and only one way around.
The second connector is a thick wire coming directly from the battery's ? terminal. This will be a simple 'O' ring on the end of the wire that will fasten with a nut to a single bolt style terminal. This terminal is often labelled on the alternator as "B?"
Please note when you tighten the "B+" nut don't over tighten it as they can, and will, snap off. Tighten until it grips then stop.
I noticed that you have had an ongoing problem and given excellent suggestions. Does the negative battery cable have a plastic plugin with four or five small wires coming from it? If you have that plugin on negative cable. Cut the wires a few inches down and sauter on new wires or I prefer to use a larger wire and sauter all of the wires to the one larger wire and make single connection at battery negative cable. Also was curious if these alternators have all been from the same place replaced under warranty? At one time there was a problem with replacement alternators that didn't have motorcraftvoltage regulators. If they have all come from same manufacturer I would ask if they have the motorcraft voltage regulator. Lastly if the battery is around or more than 2 1/2 years old I would have a second load test done
There are three wires that connect to the alternator: ORN to the field terminal, WHT/BLK to the stator terminal, and BLK/ORN to the battery terminal. The female spade must connect to a male spade on the alternator.
ABS is voltage sensitive, so will not work when alternator is not charging. Possible causes are fan belt, alternator or wiring connections.ABS will reset once alternator is repaired and car driven a short distance.
im not familiar with isuzu but they are pretty much all the same you have a two or three wire connector that plugs in and the you have a control voltage out terminal (usually 13.5v dc out put) the 2 post type connections will usually have a colored ring right up against the case of the altanator at the base of these posts the larger of the 2 wires will go on the red one. if they are not colored then there should be a + or - sign next to one of the posts. if none of these are present the larger wire is most gennerally mounted closer in to the center
If the alternator is what is going out,look at the alternator wiring,the large wire goes to the battery,it is hot all the time,do not remove it,just add a wire as large,or larger to it,and runit to the positive battery post,this will keep the alternator from working so hard to charge.
Some starter solenoids are mounted on the fender near the battery and some are on the starter itself.
Typically the ones mounted on the fender have two larger posts and one smaller post. For the larger posts: One connects strait to the positive post on the battery. The other connects strait to the starter. The smaller post connects to the neutral safety switch which connects to the start position of the ignition switch. Here is a diagram. Make sure the solenoid is grounded good.
For the solenoid that is mounted on the starter: Connect the positive post of the battery to the large post on the starter. Connect smaller neutral safety switch/ignition switch wire to the smaller post.
Your electrical system in that car is fairly similar to the system used in most full sized chevy cars of the same year except for the need for "hard wire' grounding due to the fiberglass body. You can trace the draw down by removing fuses till the draw disappears, then checking the system that fuse operates. Your alternator may also draw down the battery if it has an internal problem. Generally this is a larger draw than any accessory problem but should be checked as well. If the alternator turns out to be the culprit, you may want to change the wiring to that used on some older Cadillacs which is basically a bypass and one wire hookup (I used to know how to do it but all I remember is that one jumper wire went to one of the plug in wires (likely not the field) and the B+ wire went straight to the battery). In any case, it's not something you should have to live with. This said, if you do not drive it often, it may be wise to hook it up to a "battery tender" that maintains the battery when not in use.
You have two get the correct alternater, it is presently running at full charge all the time and not regulating. If you continue to drive it this way, it will burn out more things, including the battery. To warn you, this is what causes batteries to explode, trust me, you don't want this to happen. It is possible you could get someone to wire up the alternater your using now but they will need some experience and a good diagram.
The wire that he replaced was most likely the alternator wire.
The alternator may need to be replaced.
Have it checked and replaced if necessary.
This is the device that powers the entire vehicle while its running, so it is pretty important!
Ask what the codes from the CEL come up, maybe we can help diagnose a little further.