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You should be able to remove the tire and wheel assembly and have the rotor exposed. Remove the two bolts that secure the brake caliber and gently slide the caliper assembly off the rotor. The rotor should then come off. The broken wheel studs can be punched out with a 5 pound hand sledge and a good drift pin. Just install the new wheel studs the same way from the back side.
Heres what you will need to do this type of job. First you will need a rachet and metric sockets with an extention if available. Also you will need somthing to press the caliber piston back into place a special tool or some kind of press would work . A plastic auto hammer to knock the rotors loose, somtimes they can be difficult to remove. Pliers would be needed as well as a screw driver to help mount the caliber or pads back into place. One thing to keep in mind is that if you indeed are replacing the rear rotors, it is recommended to get new pads as well. This is for the reason that old pads will cause break sqealing since they are not surfaced perfectly straight for the new rotor. Step one will be to get the caliber of the vehicle so if there is a medal clip on one of the studs just use the pliers to rip it off. Then use the rachet to remove two bolts holding the caliber. After you remove those bolts, there should be another two bolts holding the caliber bracket as well, do the same procedure in removing those. IMPORTANT do not let the caliber hang by the brake cable, put it on a stand or in a location where it is not free fall hanging. Now you should just have the rotor left, try pulling on it to see if it breaks loose, if not then use your plastic hammer to bang in the back of the rotor and knock it loose that way. If I remember correclty those rear rotors will have brake shoes underneath. Do not wory about those they are there for your emergency brakes. Now put the new rotor on and make sure it is securley installed on the wheel hub. Install you'r bracket first, then begine to install your caliber back into place. NOTE the caliber may not install to easy onto the rotor for the reason that you will need to compress the piston inside with either the special tool or some type of press. If you compress it and you hear brake fluid dripping down, it is nothing to worry about, its just the fluid being pushed back by pressure. Install the caliber and pads the same way as removal paying close attention to the other side if your not sure of how the originally were installed. When all this is finished look up brake bleading on YOUTUBE.com to accurately bleed your brakes and remove any air inside that may cause spongy or moister inside your brake lines.
remove wheel, brake assembly & rotor. rotate to where the broken stud is in the opening where the brake assembly was. drive the broken stud out of the hub flange. then install the new stud by stacking washers on the new stud and tighten the lug till it pulls the new studs flange tight against the back side of the hub. remove lug and washers , reassemble .
Here are procedures for removing the ignitionlock assy. If equipped
with SRS, extra care must be taken while removing ang installing to
avoid damage to the SRS cable reel.
IGNITION SWITCH & LOCK CYLINDER
1. Remove steering wheel and combination switch (if necessary).
Disconnect ignition switch harness connectors. If shear bolt studs are
accessible, use a hacksaw to cut slots into exposed studs.
2. Remove studs using a screwdriver. If shear bolt studs are recessed
or hard to reach with hacksaw, use a center punch on studs. Using a
drill bit and screw extractor, remove studs. Place key in ACC position
and remove ignition switch and lock cylinder.
To install, reverse removal procedure. Install NEW shear bolts. Tighten
shear bolts finger tight. Ensure proper operation of ignition switch
and lock cylinder. Tighten shear bolts until heads break off. Install
combination switch, upper and lower steering column covers and steering
wheel (if removed). Tighten steering wheel nut and Torx screws to
Unless you hit a curb or something you have bumper to bumper warranty for 3yrs.36 k miles.If not then you can remove the wheel and brake caliper and rotor.Then pound the stud out with a hammer and reinstall the new one.Use a socket or some type of spacer and put on new stud once you have put the stud through the axle.Install the new nut on and start tightening til the stud is seated on the axle.Reinstall the wheel and torque to specs.Depending on type of wheel could be 80-100 ft.lbs.Hope this helps.Good luck.
I assume that you are referring to the wheel studs and if so you will have to remove the wheel, the brake caliper, the brake caliper stand and the brake rotor. Drive the old stud out with a hammer. Make sure you purchase new lug nuts with the studs. If they are the acorn style, buy one that is not to help with installation. Slide the new stud in the hole from the rear of the flange, install some washers for clearance of the stud shoulder. Install the non acorn style lug nut on the stud backwards. Using a impact gun, pull the stud through. Remove the backwards lug nut and washers.
1. get new studs and nuts 2.remove wheel 3. remove caliper at bracket to spindle connection(2 18mm bolts?)you may need to remove caliper from bracket,but not always nessacery. Or remove drum,then to #5 4.remove rotor,will need a hammer, tap inbetween studs dont wreck good studs and see if new studs can be installed without removing parking brake shoes. If there is no clearance to get new stud in you will need to remove shoes. 5.Pound out old studs place new stud in hole use a washer on outside then put a nut on and tighten to install stud, A air gun or some type of impact tool will be very helpful. Check to see that stud has enough threds to pull stud all the way thru ,add more washers if nessecary dont let the nut run out of threds it will **** to get back off and wreck new stud. 6. if you dont have air gun or feel comfertable removing brakes bring it to a reputable garage, shouldnt cost more than $70+ parts to get all new studs put in on one wheel.