Think i need to bleed abs system on ford truck. right front wheel chatters when stopping at lights between 40 to o miles per hours. new rotors, brakes and blead all four wheels.took out abs fuse seems to stop better.
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I had the same problem with my 2002 Silverado. The grease seal on the right front wheel bearing went up letting grease build up on sensor . Disconnect ABS sensor wire at wheel one wheel at a time. Abs light on dash will come on but that's ok. drive and stop easy with wire disconnected until brakes feel normal. Then you will know wheel is the problem.
I am in the UK, so do not know this model, but I am a Bosch service tech and can tell you, if you have air in the ABS unit itself, you well need to connect to diagnostic tool with bleeding/venting program on it. The ABS pump needs to run and operate the solenoids to get the air out...
Proper way is to bleed the entire system. IF your master cylinder DID NOT run lut of fluid then you can get by with just bleedign the one caliper you replaced. Otherwise you need to make sure the master cylinder stays full and start at the furthest away wheel, generally the rear right. then do the rear left. then if you have ABS, the abs module. then the front right and finally the front left. DO NOT re-use any brake fluid.
Bleeding procedure: use enough tubing to route the fluid into a suitable container. OPEN the bleed valve and have someone press the brake pedal. While they hold the pedal down, close the valve. Let off the brake pedal and do it as many times as needed to remove all the air. Check the master cylinder often to make sure it has fluid.
without a bleeder pump it is hard to do but you can do it by disconnecting the lines one at a time on the side going to the wheels, start the car have someone press on the brake and crack the line open do this till the air is out of the first line then go to next line and do all four lines, once you have done this then you will have to bleed the wheel cylinders starting from right rear or passenger side rear wheel the driver side wheel then passenger front side then driver side front, you will need engine running to power bleed the system, just stepping on the brake pedal without it running won't work, be sure not to let it run out of fluid as your bleeding the system or you could damage the abs system or the brake master cylinder.
Bleed your brakes by filling the master cylinder, then bleed at the wheels in the following order: right rear, left rear, right front and left front, ensure the master stays full and then test to ensure all air is out
Its probably how your bleeding your brakes, but first make sure the bleeding nipples are facing upward. You should bleed diagonaly, front pass wheel then rear driver wheel. Then front driver wheel and rear pass wheel. The abs light has its own computer your have to get it scanned to clear the codes and turn off the light
YOUR ABS KICKS IN right before you stop? you have a wheel speed sensor dropping out at low speeds this is causing the abs unit to think one wheel is locking up activating system. need to have a scan tool on it to see which one is dropping out
the ABS antilock braking system will if a fault occures? light up indicator light on dash but this means ABS is none operational thereby you will still be able to stop as if car not fitted with system i am conserned at your comment having to pump brake pedal? why? too much travel on pedal? but will pump up harder?? when you replaced front brakes? were the pads and discs replaced? did you bleed the brakes hydraulc system after ? from what you've said i am sure the ABS is working but a sensor /s is sensing premature brake lock up on either front or rear? so if you are certain front brakes ok? thencheck rears? if rear brakes are drums ? remove and inspect for wear or possible contamination ie cyl leaking fluid on shoes would cause brakes to adhese to drum on application also grabbing ? hope this helps some?