Question about 2008 Toyota Camry

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Need to press on the gas more to get the speed i used to; engine noise, lower fuel average, need to press brake pedal further down to stop car; why?

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  • Master
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Have fuel filter replace, it's a in-line type, could be some what clog, also check air filter, as far as your brake's sound like there a little worn, which is normal, have your rear brakes adjusted, that will bring the brake peddle up, there's no front brake adjuctment, lots of people forget about rear brake adjustmen, check it done and brake peddle will come up.

Posted on Jul 11, 2010

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  • Toyota Master
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COULD BE DIRTY FUEL INJECTORS OR STOPPED UP FUEL PUMP FILTER WHICH IS ON THE FUEL PUMP.EXCESSIVE BRAKE PEDAL TRAVEL CAN BE BRAKE POWER BOOSTER NOT GETTING ENOUGH ENGINE VACCUM OR BRAKE BOOSTER CHECK VALVE OR BRAKE BOOSTER FAULTY.YOU COULD HAVE LOW BRAKE FLUID LEVEL IN MASTER CYLINDER.OR NEW BRAKE SHOES HAS NOT BROKE IN.

Posted on Jul 11, 2010

Testimonial: "thanx, that explains the brake part. "

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Can i change a fiat strada gearbox to a fiat palio to lower the revs, save gas and gain a little more speed


why don't you do it , then come back and tell us how well it worked . plus the savings it got for you

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Car surging


Is the car equipped with the Automatic Transmission?
If so, read on.
Otherwise skip to the end and answer some questions.

POSSIBLE SCENARIO:
I have observed a condition where my car surges slightly when the torque-converter clutch (TCC) cycles between lock and unlock when driving on an uphill grade.
First some basics and history that will explain why the TCC is used.

Engine, Torque Converter, TCC, and Transmission relationship--
The TCC allows for a solid connection between the engine and transmission which allows the input to the transmission to rotate at the same speed as the engine.
Without a TCC, there is slippage between the engine and automatic transmission. The slippage is greatest at low engine RPM. That is what allows the engine to run with the automatic transmission in gear, like when you first shift into gear or stop at a stop sign. When the throttle pedal is depressed, the engine RPM begins to increase and the torque converter begins to slip less and less the more the engine RPM increases. The car moves. But even at cruising speeds the torque converter slips slightly. Engine RPM is greater than transmission input RPM, which is realized as slight decrease in fuel efficiency.
When acceleration is complete and a constant speed is being maintained, the engine power output is reduced to the point where the TCC can engage and eliminate any slippage between the engine and transmission. If the car has a tachometer the engagement of the TCC can be verified when a slight reduction in engine RPM observed without a corresponding change in vehicle speed.
One method used to test the operation of the TCC is as follows:
Find a flat section of road where it is safe to perform the test.
Reach a steady speed and keep the gas pedal depressed with one foot. While observing the tachometer (or listening for an increase in engine RPM), with the other foot depress the brake pedal enough to activate the break light switch but not enough to engage the brakes. When the brake light switch activates, the TCC receives a signal to disengage. With the gas pedal being held steady, release the brake pedal and the engine RPM should decrease when the TCC engages.
Old cars with Automatic Transmissions did not use a TCC. I believe the TCC was put in use in an attempt to increase fuel economy.

MY EXPERIENCE WITH SIMILAR SYMPTOMS
The condition that causes that issue on my car is this:
- A slight uphill grade increases the load on the engine.
The car tends to gradually slow and it is necessary to depress the gas pedal to maintain speed.
- Depressing the throttle pedal (manually, or automatically with cruise control engaged) signals the torque converter clutch to unlock when the load increases slightly. (A more drastic load increase would signal the Transmission to downshift to a lower gear.) The corresponding increase in engine RPM and output is enough to compensate for the reduction in speed. When the vehicle speed, engine RPM, and throttle position stabilize to the point that the TCC will engage and the engine RPM will reduce in correspondence with TCC engagement. Now, if the road conditions have not changed, power output is not enough to maintain vehicle speed. With the increased load caused by full engagement between engine and transmission, and the cycle (surging) repeats itself until the road conditions change.

Does that help?
If not:

QUESTIONS
Please define the symptoms.
What are the road conditions when the surge occurs? (A slight uphill grade?)
What is the frequency of the surge?
Does the engine power output have a noticeable surge?
Is there a speed change related to the surge?
Does the tachometer move up and down with little or no change in vehicle speed?
Are all instrument indication in the normal range?
What else has changed?

Good luck!

May 24, 2014 | Subaru Impreza WRX STi Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Car turns off when engaging clutch to a lower gear


Check the following:
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TEST: Pull up the hand brake. Start the engine and let it at idle speed.
Depress the clutch pedal, put the car in 1st gear, while keeping the clutch pedal depressed. If the gear lever hesitates or produce any abnormal noise, replace the clutch thrust bearing.
- If the gear lever shifts smoothly, clean the throttle body, idle air control valve and perform idle speed learn learn procedure.
- Check the valve clearance.

Apr 11, 2014 | 1992 Toyota Corolla

1 Answer

No speed when gas pedal is to floor tranny light came on


With the oil light coming on and the brake pedal being hard to press I would say that the engine stopped hence no vacuum -no power assist from the booster.- hard brake pedal. The lock uo feeling may come from the engine seizing up while you were still in gear

Feb 02, 2013 | 2003 Jeep Liberty

1 Answer

2000 mercury cougar engine speed stays up when gas pedal is release, increase when pedal is release and shifting gears, takes 3 seconds or more to come down to idle when gas pedal is release, will hold at...


You have a mechanical bind. Disconnect the main linkage and work it all by hand. Everything should be free and slopy. Aerosol carb cleaner will help, but only when the engine is not running.

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1 Answer

My brakes feel like they arent going to stop.


This is most dangerous for you. I think that your power brake boost has failed, possibly due to a split vacuum hose. You can test this...
With the engine off, pump the brake pedal hard a few times. Then press down hard on the pedal and start the engine. You should feel the pedal sink perceptibly under your foot.
If this seems OK then your brake pads may be down to the metal on one or more wheels even though you here no noise. Remove the front wheels and have a look, as on p22 here (a later model).

http://www.turboninjas.com/camry/br.pdf

If the pedal feels spongy underfoot, and you can get better brakes by pumping the pedal vigorously, then there is air in the brake system, and it will need to be bled, as on p9

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1 Answer

Vibration/Rattling on right side during high speeds


I had a similar problem. The dealer change automatic transmission and differential, but the noise continu. After research on internet i think the problem is the front galiper who create a vibration on the disc wheel and the vibration frequence follow the front axle until interior car. Just press slowly the brake pedal and if the noise stop , that's it the cause i think. I dont change my galiper, but i have a new transmission . :)))

Jun 03, 2009 | 2002 Volkswagen Jetta TDI

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