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It is recommended that you lift out the engine before attempting to replace the oil pan. Once the engine is lifted you can remove the bolts, remove the pan, clean all the old gasket material.
Remove the rear main bearing cap oil seal
Remove the timing cover oil seal
Clean all the mating surfaces and seal grooves
Install new oil pan front cover seals
Install a new rear main bearing cap oil seal
Install new oil pan side gaskets on the block
Make sure the tabs of the front and rear seal fit properly as these are critical spots
Attach the oil pan to the engine block and install the retaining bolts
That seal typically comes with a pack that includes all the cam bearing seals and the valve covers seals. It very easy to replace. Remove the valve cover and discard the old seal, remove the old cam shaft bearing cap seals. Replace the bearing cap seals and the valve cover seal and replace the cap and cover. Tighten the bolts to about 30 lbs and that should resolve the problem.
yes, I just changed one of these recently. Had to take both front and bottom off engine. Very difficult repair, as there are no good jack points for the engine when you have all the motor mounts off.
Here is procedure I would recommend.
Remove starter and engine to transmission brackets front and back.
Remove transmission starter gear cover.
drain oil and remove oil pan.
put a block under the crankshaft and jack to release weight on motor mount.
remove front motor mount (by serpentine belt)
remove compressor and bracket.
remove crank pulley and vib damper.
remove timing cover. mark timing belt with direction of travel
loosen tensioner gear.
remove timing belt.
remove crankshaft timing gear and key.
remove seal and oil pump housing.
clean gasket surfaces.
replace seal and reverse procedure.
If you haven't had the timing belt replace (60,000 miles is the suggested service intervale) this is an overlap of having the timing belt replaced.
If the timing belt is not due for replacement and its the cam shaft seal that is leaking. Its a pretty easy fix. Remove the top timing belt cover , and the crankshaft sensor wiring you may have to remove the front engine mount . Set #1 piston at TDC, Loosen tensioner w/ spring slip off belt. **Remove sprocket pull out old seal with a sharp pick. Greese and install new seal make sure its flush with its bore . Reistall sprocket. Slide belt over Cam sprocket tighten tensioner. Install cover and mount (if applicable) Check timing marks by turning crank two revolutions.
** If CamSprocket Bolt is difficult to remove then remove valve cover and use a 21mm wrench to hold the Camshaft while you crack off Cam Sprocket Bolt.
You will see the groves on the Camshaft where you can place a wrench to hold the shaft.
After you replaced the seal replace the valve cover gasket ONLY IF YOU HAD TO REMOVE THE COVER TO HOLD THE CAM WHILE REMOVING ITS BOLT.
that would be the oil filter cooler housing... thier is a seal much lick the one on the oil filter.. that is common to get brittle and begin to leak... easy fix.. remove oil filter, remove nut.. remove two cooler lines .. remove old seal replace... and reverse procedure to install.... good luk..
Not that difficult, raiseand support the rear of the truck and remove the wheels. Might as well replace both sides so you know you have new seals, remove the differential cover and drain the fluid. Once differential is opened and cleaned , remove the axle "C" clip that hold the axle in place and slide the axle out. Once the axle is out remove the wheel seal and clean around the area. This would be a good time to replace the wheel bearing too since you have access to them and there not that expensive. Install the new bearing and seal, note make sure you oiled the bearing and seal before installing it back and take care when installing the axle back in and "C: clip. Use RTV silicon gasket maker to seal the differential cover and wheels back on and lower. If your lazy like i am, you can drain the differential fluid and replace it with a 50/50 mix with gear oil and Lucas engine oil additives. That may stop the leak and get you a few more miles. You gear oil is (ford 75W-140) (Dana 80W-90)and the capacity is 2.6 liters and 3.5 liters if you have the 10.25 Ring gear. Good luck and hope this helps.
I just changed my oil on my RAV4 V6 and the first thing is you are not looking for the regular canister but a oil housing like on the old farm tractors. You just replace the inside filter cartridge. The canister is in front on the engine on the passenger side. Use a 3/8 socket to open the bottom and drain. Next use a oil filter cap wrench to remove the housing. Actully this is a less messy than my chevy and more "green."
Your info is confusing. The rear cam seal is not inside the timing belt cover, and the crank seal is at the bottom of the engine, while the cam seal is at the top.
Is there oil at the top, around the cam seal? Or just at the bottom? It's common for the oil pump seal to leak. If you get the oil pump reseal kit, it contains the oil pump seal and gasket, as well as the crankshaft seal. Make sure you seal the oil pump bolts, Volvo has special copper washers for this purpose.
Just try to locate the oil leak before replacing any more parts. Sometimes it can be something simple like the oil cap seal or the oil trap housing.