Question about 1998 Ford F250 SuperCab

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How do i change ignition switch on ford f250 lariat 5.4

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Ignition Switch 89 Ford Lariat Truck

Comment by 54harley, posted on Nov 13, 2008 Jeff;
First of all before anything else, disconnect the ground battery cable. Remove column shroud by loosening the screw on the underside, selecting position "1" for automatics and manual 3 speeds, then spreading shroud open and withdrawing out of instrument panel opening by pulling up and away from the column.

If the ignition switch is out of adjustment, that will keep it from working properly. It operates by a rod through the lock actuator rack and pinion which is driven by the key cylinder. To readjust the switch, first disconnect the ignition switch connector by carefully spreading apart the locking fingers and pulling the plug apart. Now rotate the key back and forth until you can insert a 5/64 drill bit, or something equivalent, through the locking pin hole as far as possible. The locking pin hole is located on the right of the switch next to the steering column tube. Next loosen the two ignition switch mounting nuts, turn the ignition to LOCK (feel for detent), and remove the key. Now move the switch up and down along the column to locate the mid-point of the rod lash and then re-tighten the mounting nuts, making sure to tighten top nut first to minimize any rod binding. Now remove the drill bit and reconnect the electrical connector.

If you need to replace the switch, first remove the column support bracket and lower the column. Disconnect the plug, remove the two nuts, lift the switch up vertically to disengage the actuator rod from the switch, and remove.
When you install the new switch, both the lock cylinder and the ignition switch must be in the LOCK position for correct adjustment. Turn the lock cylinder to LOCK and remove the key. The new switch will already be pinned in the Lock position with a metal shipping pin. Now install the new switch by first engaging the actuator rod to the switch, and then positioning the switch on the column and installing the nuts, but only finger tight! Move the switch up and down along the column, and when you locate the mid-point of rod lash, tighten the nuts, top nut first. Remove the lock pin, reconnect the battery ground cable, and check to see that it starts properly in Park and Neutral, and will not start in Drive or Reverse. Raise the steering column back up into position, and put bracket back on. Reinstall the shroud by spreading it around the column and through the instrument panel opening, making sure that the pin on the shroud is aligned with the upper hole on the column before installing the shroud screw.

I hope this works for you. Although I've done this before, these instructions are from the Ford Truck Shop Manual, and a Haynes Repair Manual. Good Luck!!!

Posted on Nov 13, 2008

  • 508 Answers

SOURCE: how do I?

Emissionwiz is correct. Follow his advice. You would need a few special tools to accomplish this task and enough knowledge to complete the repair.

Posted on Feb 24, 2009

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SOURCE: !988 Ford Lariat No spark after running over curb

could be the fusable link, or the computer box located on the wheel well take it off and have it tested at auto zone for free and there only about 30,00

Posted on Apr 20, 2009

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SOURCE: 2002 ford f250 lariat 7.3 superduty

Powerstrokes do not have an accelerator cable. All fly-by-wire. Possibly the rheostat in the foot pedal going bad. Are the gauges functioning on the dash?

Posted on Jun 17, 2009

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: remove and install diesel fuel injector

First, keep everything as clean as possible. Contamination below 30 microns, which cannot be seen by humans, can destory a diesel fuel injection system. Clean everything off anything having to do with connections on the fuel system and cover any connections left open.

Begin by removing the intake manifold. This will remove the clips holding the injection lines passing underneath and around the intake runners. After removing the manifold, cover the openings in the cylinder head (I use wadded-up paper towels).

Next, remove the clips at the brackets on the injection lines closer to the injectors.

Loosen all of the injection connections at the injectors. Do not remove the lines.

You can remove the water crossover tube if it is in your way, but drain about a 1/2 gallon of coolant before your remove the crossover.

Remove the oil fill tube from the timing cover. Turn the engine clockwise, using a 15/16" socket and ratchet (or breaker bar) on the center bolt of the crankshaft. As you turn the engine over, a bolt will show up at the opening where the oil fill tube was removed. Remover the bolt and keep turning the engine over until you have removed all three bolts. Do NOT use the starter to turn the engine over and, after removing the third bolt, do NOT turn the crankshaft any more.

On top of the timing cover, behind the rounded top, is the place where the injection pump is bolted to the cover from the back side. Clean the top of the timing cover where it meets the injection pump and look for a thin line scribed into the cover and one on the injection pump. Note the position of the two lines (they are usually aligned) for reassembly.

Remove the throttle cable assembly from the injection pump. Remove all the wires from the pump and note which connection the big pink wire goes to. The other wires will be green. Remove the return hose at the top of the injection pump.

There are three nuts holding the injection pump to the timing cover and you will need a 15mm socket and/or wrench to remove them. When you do, the injection pump and injection lines can be removed as a unit. Note the position of the driveshaft of the injection pump to set the new one the same way. If you are not going to put things back together right away, cut up a plastic garbage bag and make covers for the injectors. Secure the covers with rubber bands or nylon cable ties to keep dirt out of the injectors.

Carefully transfer the injection lines to the new pump. It is possible to cross them up so pay close attention while moving the lines. Transfer the fuel inlet pipe to the new pump and whatever device is mounted on the passenger side of the old injection pump to the new pump.

Get a new injection pump to timing cover gasket and install it over the timing cover studs. Install the new injection pump after setting the driveshaft to match the holes in the gear inside the timing cover. The pump can only be installed one way since it is indexed to the gear. Reinstall the nuts on the studs and set the timing marks to the same position they were when you removed the old injection pump (the lines on top of the timing cover and the flange of the injection pump). Tighten the mounting nuts. Make sure that all the injection lines line up at their injectors, but do not tighten the connections at the injectors yet.

Put the first bolt back into the gear through the oil fill tube hole. Hand tighten it and then turn the crankshaft clockwise as before to install the remaining two bolts. Then, tighten all the bolts securely and resinstall the oil fill tube. Reinstall the throttle connections on the injection pump.

Install a new piece of 1/4" fuel line from the fuel filter to the injection pump (the old one is usuall brittle since it never gets changed). Remove the covers over the opening in the cylinders heads and reinstall the intake manifold using new gaskets.

Reinstall all the injection line clips that were removed and the coolant crossover tube (if you removed it and don't forget to add coolant to the radiator). Reconnect all the wiring on the injection pump, except for the big pink wire. Install a piece of clear tubing on the top of the injection pump and connect it to the return tee in front of it (where you removed the rubber hose from the old injection pump).

Now comes the fun part: Disconnect the glow plug relay connector (two small wires in a connector) from the middle of the relay. The relay is usually on the driver's fender and close to the battery.

Crank the engine, in short bursts, until you see fuel in the clear tubing on top of the injection pump. When you do, reconnect the big pink wire on the injection pump. Continue to crank the engine in short bursts (allowing the starter to rest between cranking cycles) until you see fuel dripping out of the injection lines at the injectors. When you do, tighten the connections where fuel is dripping. When all lines have been tightened, reconnect the glow plug relay connector. Remove the clear tubing on top of the injection pump and reinstall the fuel line that was removed from that location.

Then, try starting the engine normally. If it will not start, try some WD-40 down the intake. You can use ether, but you MUST disable the glow plugs be removing the connector at the relay.

The engine may run rough or stall at first but it should smooth out after all the remaining air comes out of the system.

Torque values are as follows:

Intake manifold: 25-37 ft-lbs
Gear bolts: 13-20 ft-lbs
Injection pump mounting nuts: 25-37 ft-lbs
Injection lines: 15-24 ft-lbs ("wrench tight" is fine)
Injection pump fuel inlet fitting: 15-20 ft-lbs

Posted on Feb 17, 2010

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My friend, Please take this to a shop! They will change this in minutes! Frankster016

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