Question about 2001 Lincoln LS
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: remove right rear door panel
IMPORTANT: Discard the old door trim panel retainers and replace with new retainers before installing the trim panel
Posted on Nov 04, 2008
Here is how to tell if system is working.Get into the vehicle and close door. Set ignition switch to on position and move the gear shifter to neutral. After a few secs. you should hear the compressor turn on. If it comes on then put shifter back to park leave ignition on and exit vehicle. Compressor will stop when you open the door but should start back up in a couple of secs. after you close the door. You can then walk around the vehicle and listen for leaks.
If compressor does not come on there are 3 fuses and a solid state relay that controls it along with the module.
The 3 fuses are no. 109(50amp) in the battery junction box under hood.This is the direct feed to compressor thru the solid state relay. The other 2 fuses are located in the interior fuse panel and they are no. 6 (5amp) and no. 12(15amp).
What we usually see though if compressor does not run is either a bad compressor or the solid state relay. They both are rather expensive so I would have an experience tech look at it then.
However If you feel confident enough and have a voltmeter or test light respond back and I will tell you which wires to check.
Posted on Mar 12, 2009
SOURCE: 2001 tahoe door panel
THE COUTESY LAMP IS HOT DUE TO THE DOOR BEING OPEN WHILE THIS PROCEDURE IS DONE!!!! First: Remove the triangle panel at the top of the door (behind the mirror). This is held in with two metal clips about half way down the panel. Do not pry at the bottom as there are two tabs that slide in to keep the module in place. I pulled the top of the triangle out by hand then could see the clips and used a straight screw driver to carefully pry from under the triangle panel so as not to scar the visible part after re-assembly. Once these two clips are disengaged the triangle should pull straight up and be free. Second: Carefully pry out the door lock insert. There are no significant tabs to worry about here. Again a straight screw driver and care should not leave any scars. The lock insert has no mechanical connection but simply is used to slide the lock rod. Re-installing you will need to align the slot for the rod in the lock or unlock position depending on the rod position. Third: Carefully pry out the insert that is located at the door handle. Start at the rear of the insert as this is where the clips are located and once the rear is out pull open the door handle and pull the insert to the rear so as not to break off the two front tabs. You will find two small screws (mine were black). One near the front and one at the rear of the door handle module. Both are 7 mm and are the only ones that need to be remove in the process. (I understand some door panels have an other screw at the very bottom of the door as well; guess you'll have to check you door. Fourth: Pry up the control panel for the automatic windows and unplug the wires. Here again start from the rear and once the rear is free pull the module to the rear and it should come free. There are tabs at the front that you do not want to break off. To unplug the wires - First remove the clips (mine were blue) that hold the plug in place. There is also a push catch on the plug that must be depressed to release the plug from the control panel. Fifth: My door had no push in 'buttons' or clips to hold the door panel in place. It simply lifted up and became free with the exception of the numerous wires attached to things like the speakers, the remote mirrow and courtesy light. Unplug these wires by first taking off any retaining clips (usually blue) and then unplug the wires. The courtesy light pulls straight out (toward the front) and watch your fingers as this is one hot little bulb. The door panel can then be totally removed and set aside. You may find it easier to remove the courtesy light lens by prying out the rear first and then pulling it toward the back of the door so as not to break the two front clips. I found it easier to do this and then install the bulb in the lens and then install the lens back in place. Six: I'm sure I don't need to say it but here goes - ' reverse the procedure to re-assemble'. Remember to poke the courtesy light wire out the hole and re-connect the remote mirror and speaker wires before the door is put in place. The wires to the window and electronic lock module can be installed after the door is back in place. Working by myself made the door difficult to handle during re-installation so I took a 'light' bungy cord and placed some protection over the top of the door and hooked the bungy into the opening were the door handle was to come through. This allowed me to steady the door and do the electrical connections as required. PS - we were replacing the power window motor and were able to 'force' the cable into the gears of the new motor by turning the motor and this saved a lot of further disassembly. The contacts on the new motor were reversed so I removed the pins from the plug going into the motor and reversed them - presto.
Posted on Mar 17, 2009
The inner door panel is held in by clips and screw.
Look at the door near the door handle there should be screws holding it in and along the outer edge of the door. Once loose, and the door handle removed or the arm rest removed. The door panel then prys out , because of the clips that hold it on. Then pops out by applying pressure to the panel upward to the top of the door. The clips always break because of the design and plastic.
Posted on Mar 21, 2009
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