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Replacing clutch on 2004 nissan navara can i pull gearbox out far enough over the torsion bar crossmember without dropping the crossmember

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 88 nissan navara torsion bars need adjusting

yes, wind the pair up so the front end is sitting at the same height both left & right, usually 10mm lower than the rear, use the sil of the vehicle as a measure against the ground.
You will need a 22mm high impact socket with an air gun, use plenty lubricant on the threads as they get very hot when winding them up and down. before you wind the nuts up take the load off the bars to make it easier.
some times you may need to remove the whole torsion bar and turn within the splines to gain more height as they can loose there tension over a peroid of time.
don't forget to do a wheel alignement afterwards as this will cause a change in measurements.
Good luck.

Posted on Sep 29, 2008

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  • 750 Answers

SOURCE: Can anyone give me pointers on how to remove the

you may have to remove the front suspension crossmember and diff assembly if is a 4x4

Posted on Oct 20, 2009

  • 10 Answers

SOURCE: Nissan Frontier torsion bar replacement

well it depends how you want to adjust it, if you want to lower it, back out the screw on the torsion key a couple of turns. raise, screw it in a couple of turns

Posted on May 29, 2008

  • 123 Answers

SOURCE: took torsion bars off kept them in the crossmember

Did you put the adjuster back at where they were before you disassembled it? Are you sure it wasn't on the bumper stops to begin with ? Does it look like the ride height is lower than it was ? If everything is together the way it should be and you have the adjusters at there max adjustment then your torsion bars are probably shot.

Posted on Nov 17, 2009

c1apton15
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SOURCE: I have an 80 series petrol Landcruiser which

Couple of options: You must have truck up at least 24" or higher and trans (according to Rover) has to be rolled to one side. The other option from local gent who works on Rovers suggests losening motor mounts so motor can tilt backwards. They are tight - Either case sounds like alot of work..

Posted on Jan 03, 2011

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1 Answer

In a 2000 ford expedition does the cross member under the transfer case need to be removed? to take the transfer case out . if so how do I remove the bars attach to it ?


First you need to measure the height from the ground to the frame on each side on level ground. Write those numbers down. If you follow the torsion bars to the crossmember, you will see arms or levers attached to them. Counter clockwise will lower them. Remove the bolts, then the torsion bars then the crossmember.

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How do u replace lower control arm bushes nissan navara d22 duel cab 4wd 1997 , do u need to drop torsion bar and if so what's the best way to do this


to remove lower control arm bushings you need to remove control arm from vechicle have control arm bushings pressed out.you need to remove disconnect torsion bar,remove shock absorber,disconnect stabilizer bar link, remove axle half shaft, remove the lower ball joint, remove control arm mounting bolts, then remove lower control arm.

Nov 24, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Clutch replacment


pull the driveshaft, take the bolts out of tranny and loosen hte nuts on tha crossmember. slide the trany back far enough to get to the flywheel bolts, or remove tranny. take out the bolts holding the flywheeland remove old clutch. go to the parts store and get your new clutch and the alignment tool(makes it alot easier)when you put the new clutch in, use the alignment tool to keep the clutch in line with the splines amd toghten the flywheel back up. remove the alignment tool and put your tranny back in .

Dec 10, 2010 | 1996 Nissan King Cab

1 Answer

How do you get the alternator out?


I am trying to remove the alternator in a 2004 Mazda Tribute--I have removed the belt, dropped the crossmember, removed the exhaust under the alternator, and taken loose the axel carrier support in hopes that it would move far enough to remove the alternator but it doesn't have enough flex.

Nov 11, 2010 | 2004 Mazda Tribute

1 Answer

Torsion bar banging sounds when traveling on moderately rough roads.


The torsion bars have rubber insulators, or mounts that are located on the frame crossmember. These mounts are prone to seperate or break.
Good luck

Mar 12, 2010 | 2002 Chevrolet S-10

1 Answer

Took torsion bars off kept them in the crossmember and when i went to put them on I had no weight on the front and tightened the bolts half way and let the truck down and it sank to the bump stops its a 95...


Did you put the adjuster back at where they were before you disassembled it? Are you sure it wasn't on the bumper stops to begin with ? Does it look like the ride height is lower than it was ? If everything is together the way it should be and you have the adjusters at there max adjustment then your torsion bars are probably shot.

Nov 17, 2009 | 1995 Nissan Pathfinder

2 Answers

88 nissan navara torsion bars need adjusting


yes, wind the pair up so the front end is sitting at the same height both left & right, usually 10mm lower than the rear, use the sil of the vehicle as a measure against the ground.
You will need a 22mm high impact socket with an air gun, use plenty lubricant on the threads as they get very hot when winding them up and down. before you wind the nuts up take the load off the bars to make it easier.
some times you may need to remove the whole torsion bar and turn within the splines to gain more height as they can loose there tension over a peroid of time.
don't forget to do a wheel alignement afterwards as this will cause a change in measurements.
Good luck.

Aug 04, 2008 | Nissan Pathfinder Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Torsion bars


I'm going to use the torsion bar crossmember as the reference point.Laying behind the torsion bar crossmember on your stomach,looking squarely at and across the crossmember,the adjusters that the torsion bars slip into,want to as level as possible from left to right,or right to left in relation to the crossmember.Insert the torsion bar in the front anchor point,on the lower control arm,take it on through so that you can raise the rear up,and bring it on back to the rear anchor,now,look at where it should slip through with the rear adjusters about level.bring the torsion bar on back and engage the rear adjuster/anchor point.Should be it.

Jul 27, 2008 | 1983 Plymouth Gran Fury

1 Answer

Crossmember mount nuts


This is what I found it seems pretty good but I am having a hard time removing the broken piece from the rear holder.
Tools and Materials Required

Floor jack, 2-1/2 ton minimum, 4-ton preferred
2 or 4 jack stands, 2-ton minimum
Breaker bar, 1/2" drive
Ratchet, 3/8" and 1/2" drive
4" or 6" extension, 3/8" and 1/2" drive
1/2", 9/16", 5/8", 11/16", 3/4" open end and box end wrenches/sockets
Scraper, pocket knife, etc. to clean torsion bar socket in A-arm
Bottle jack, wood blocks, etc.
2-lb. sledgehammer
3/8" or 1/2" diameter drift or hard steel punch or similar tool
Large flat blade screwdriver or small pry bar to remove torsion bar socket end seal
Torsion bar tensioning tool
Penetrating oil, as required
Chassis grease, as required
High pressure thread lubricant, as required
Mineral spirits, solvent, etc. as required or desired
Gloves and eye protection
Procedure: NOTE: Always wear eye protection, especially when working under the coach. Be aware that when you loosen/remove any of the hardware or components, a lot of drek will fall out. Protect your eyes. And never, never, NEVER get under the coach unless it is supported securely with appropriate jack stands. Do not get under it while it is only lifted on a jack.

Raise and support vehicle enough to allow loosening of wheel lug nuts, loosen nuts.
With floor jack, raise vehicle at front crossmember until wheels are off the ground.
Support vehicle with jack stands under the front crossmember, and additionally under the frame as the situation warrants.
Remove wheel on whichever side is being worked on.
Apply generous amount of penetrating oil to the torsion bar adjusting bolts and nuts. Let set to thoroughly penetrate rusted bolts. Take a measurement of or carefully observe how far the adjusting bolts are threaded into the nuts. You will need these measurements to approximately reset the bolts for ride height adjustment later.
Apply penetrating oil to mid-frame crossmember attaching bolts. Let set.
Follow the torsion bar to the front, and locate the mounting socket in the lower A-arm. At the front of the hex shaped socket is a soft metal seal cap. You have to remove this cap to be able to slide the torsion bar forward enough to remove it from the rear mount. With the large flat blade screwdriver or small pry bar, pry out this cap. Try not to damage it too much. One or more of the side flanges of the cap may break off and it could get bent up while removing it. It doesn't seem to be too critical, and can be pounded back into shape sufficiently to be reused.
Apply a small amount of high pressure thread lubricant to the threads and end point of the torsion bar tensioning tool. Attach torsion bar tensioning tool squarely on the frame member. Be sure the locating pin is in the guide hole on the top side of the crossmember right over the "pork chop". If your tool does not have this locating pin, be sure to attach the tool squarely on the top of the crossmember.
Tighten any bolts/nuts on the tool to secure it. Turn the center bolt of the tool up into the dimple in the bottom of the pork chop arm. Continue tightening until the end of the pork chop arm is off the adjusting bolt.
Carefully remove the adjusting bolt. This could take some time and a lot of effort. Keep the penetrating oil handy as several applications may be necessary. If it strips or breaks, you'll have to cut it out or burn it out with a torch, and replace it with a new one.
When the adjusting bolt is out, remove the flat nut (rounded with slots on one side).
Turn the torsion bar tensioning tool center bolt counterclockwise to relieve the tension on the pork chop and bar. When the tension is completely off the bar, the tool and bar/pork chop assembly will basically fall apart.
Remove the tool.
Repeat 7 through 13 for the other side, except you don't have to remove the seal cap if you are not removing/replacing the torsion bar. You only have to loosen the bar to be able to move the crossmember.
On the rear side of the crossmember you can see the end of the torsion bar through a small hole in the crossmember. Insert the drift/punch into this hole and with the hammer pound the bar loose until it starts to slide forward. At this point you should probably be able to slide the bar forward enough by hand to clear the crossmember.
Loosen and remove the crossmember mount assembly on the side you're working on. Two bolts and nuts hold it in place. Slide the rubber mount away from the crossmember and remove it.
Loosen the bolts on the other side enough so that the crossmember can be moved. If you are removing/replacing both torsion bars, go ahead and remove the bolts and crossmember mount.
Using the bottle jack and necessary wood blocks, raise the crossmember enough so that the torsion bar can be slid under it. You will have to make sure the bar goes back into the hex socket on the front mount so it will slide through. The old grease in the socket will act like glue, so you may want to loosen it up with penetrating oil or mineral spirits or some other solvent. Slide the bar through and out of the socket. It weighs 25 or 30 pounds so don't let it fall on your head. Remove the bar and yourself from under the coach.
With a pocket knife or other small scraping tool, clean out the old grease from the front hex socket. Use a solvent to remove all the grease, if desired. Clean the old grease from the hex end of the torsion bar.
Reshape the socket seal cap if necessary. Test fit it into the socket, but don't pound it into place yet.
Examine the threads of the adjusting bolt and nut. If they look okay, clean them up with a wire brush. Dress them with a die and tap if you have these tools. Otherwise, the wire brush should be fine. Reassemble them with high pressure thread lube and run the bolt all the way through and back again. Clean the threads again, and re-lube them with thread lube. Leave them disassembled.
Apply a glob of clean chassis grease to the inside of the front hex socket. Be liberal and coat it well. Apply grease over the hex end of the torsion bar.
From under the coach, insert the torsion bar (either replacement or same one) into the front hex socket. Be sure you have the correct bar for the side. Each bar is marked on the end with either "L" or "R". Each one will fit on either side, but you don't want to mix them up. Verify before you assemble.
Installation is just the reverse of removal. Reassemble the bar/pork chop. Tap the bar from the front enough to set it 1/8" or so from the inner surface of the crossmember. Check it at the hole in the crossmember.
Be sure to tap the seal cap back into place.
Reinstall the crossmember mount, and tighten bolts. Be sure to tighten bolts on the side loosened.
Apply the torsion bar tool and raise the end of the pork chop far enough to be beyond where it was originally. Insert the adjusting nut and bolt. Turn the adjusting bolt up to about the same position you observed or measured prior to disassembly. Remove tensioning tool allowing the pork chop to contact adjusting bolt.
Remove jack stands, and reinstall front wheel(s).
Completely lower coach.
Check and adjust ride height as outlined in the Owner's Manual or service manual. Be sure tire pressures are correct and rear suspension is at the correct height ("Travel" position). Use the tensioning tool with the front wheels off the ground to raise or lower the pork chop. Never use the adjusting bolt -- it will strip. No matter which way you have to adjust the ride height, always relieve the tension on the adjusting bolt before trying to turn it.

Jun 23, 2008 | 2004 Ford F250

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