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I was driving down the high way and my caliper fell off and ripped my brake line and pulled off my e brake line. Or at least thats what i think happenedhow much is this going to cost me

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My best guess, not knowing the type of car you're driving, is at least $500-$700. You're looking at the cost of a new caliper, new pads, new brake lines, possible a new rotor, and the labor to replace all of it.

Posted on Jul 09, 2010

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Braking results in grinding sound


I suggest you pull rear drums or have someone qualified look at rear brakes. it could of broke a spring or other brake hardware. I suggest stop driveing the car until you can inspect or have the brakes inspected..

Aug 02, 2014 | 1999 Ford Taurus

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1992 Suzuki sidekick has front brakes locking up after a short drive. Problem started after right front caliper piston was frozen and left front caliper slides were frozen. Replaced right front caliper and...


stop and do not drive, get a brake man, in the loop, danger !


this is cause by the MC, the master cylinder, no ABS in 92
not replacing relic calipers in pairs is dumb, sorry risking life and limb using old 20 year old calipers is not bright. a fact, not opinion.
are both caliper locking, at ONCE?
that is the key question .
reasons. (answer for BOTH clipers locking at once)
1: bad calipers ,no piston lasts for 21 years, ever. (relic)
2: the MC piston is not retraced,

#2 is caused for 2 or 3 reasons,,,,
2a; brake pedal adjusted such that the factory play behind piston rod is not zero or minus, causing the MC to lock hydraulically.
2b; the booster was changed and the PP mechanic (weak) did not
RTM , they did not adjust the new booster, calibration ring stated in the FSM.
3: if one caliper (good) locks the rubber flex line is breaking down
inside and is clogged. 21 year old lines are not good to trust.
not life and limb or mine when you hit me...
that too, is fact.

the guide pins must be free, and antisieze lubed or with special
99cent OTC brake grease (very high temp rated,) ask.
the pistons rust. DOT3/4 is hygroscopic and will rust in 21 years.
not a guess. fact.
One other point, 21 year old caliper seals will no longer have
stiction, they fail to retract the piston and the pad drag. wasting fuel and pads. new seals. better, newly rebuilt Raybestos calipers
will make them safe.
fixing brakes in a serial fashion is asking for trouble.
do not cheap out on brakes.

Aug 21, 2013 | 1992 Suzuki Sidekick

1 Answer

Brake line to caliper poped off


OK I understand your trying to safe a few bucks but your now costing yourself money.Stop what your doing,put all the parts in a box and call a toe truck.You need a mechanic now,its possible to fix what you have done,if it was only the line that is broken (ie the threads are stripped)at little cost. Now the bad news,if the Calliper is stripped your looking a few bucks so STOP now and don't try to drive,you have no brakes you'll kill someone! DON'T DRIVE THIS CAR. I know I said that a few times but I'm concerned.Hope this is helpful.

Feb 19, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

4 Answers

Brake pedal goes nearly to floor front pads, calipers, brake hoses changed, rotors turned Master cylinder changed, brake booster check valve changed rear brakes checked, drums good no ridge, shoe's...


I would go with not bled correctly

The booster should hold up with a hard pedal until
you start the engine, then vacuum causes it to move
down when pressing on the brake

Sep 16, 2011 | Saturn SC Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

93 honda accord the brakes lock down as soon as it gets warm


I am interpreting your description to mean that the brakes seem to work fine once or twice, but then they fail to release after only a short amount of use. If sounds right, the most common cause for this is that one or more of your disk brake calipers is sticking, failing to release even after you let off the brake pedal. Normally, only one caliper will fail at one time, meaning that the car will pull strongly to the side where the brake has locked up. You can also test this theory by driving the car until it starts to drag. Pull over and lightly touch each of the tire rims. One or more of them should be hot--possibly burning hot--to the touch from all the heat that's been generated by the stuck brake caliper. A wheel with a properly working brake will probably feel warm to the touch--but not super-hot, unless you've just completed a motorcross course or something that gave your brakes a real workout.

You can buy rebuild kits for most brake calipers, but, in all honesty, it may cost almost the same and be better in the long run to buy a factory-rebuilt caliper, trading in your old one for its core. Factory rebuilt calipers are sandblasted and carefully cleaned and painted before the new parts are installed; quite frankly, I've never done any of that when I've rebuilt my own calipers.

It's possible that you might have frozen calipers even if both brakes on an axle (i.e., both front or both back wheels) are locking up. You might have gotten moisture into both of them by driving through a deep puddle, etc.--or you might not have noticed the problem until both calipers started acting up, holding back your car even more. I don't believe that your Accord has any kind of special one-way pressure relief valves in the brake lines, outside of what's in your master cylinder.

Another cause for your braking problem might be your master cylinder. Ordinarily, master cylinder problems show up as loss of braking--your brake pedal goes to the floor or becomes very mushy. However, it's possible that a faulty master cylinder with some internal corrosion could be failing to release pressure after it's been applied. If you've excluded the brake calipers as a cause, this would be the next place I'd check.

A final thought is to think about the age of the brake fluid in your system. If it's older than a few years--or you can't remember the last time your system was flushed--chances are that the fluid is old and has absorbed too much water to perform at its original specifications. I don't think that water in the lines would tend to lock up your brakes, but you could try flushing out your brake system by bleeding all the lines and feeding a steady supply of fresh fluid into your master cylinder. Start with the rear brakes and bleed the front brake that's closest to the master cylinder last. This won't be a quick pump the brakes a few times and look for air bubbles kind of bleed. Instead, you'll want to pull out a half cup or more of fluid at each brake, ensuring that fresh brake fluid is being pulled into the brake lines and into the brake fluid reservoirs at the calipers and at the rear drums.

May 18, 2011 | 1993 Honda Accord

2 Answers

BRAKES LOCK UP WHILE DRIVING 1989 NISSAN D21


I am interpreting your description to mean that the brakes seem to work fine for a while, but then they fail to release after a period of driving. If sounds right, the most common cause for this is that one or more of your disk brake calipers is sticking, failing to release even after you let off the brake pedal. Normally, only one caliper will fail at one time, meaning that the vehicle will pull strongly to the side where the brake has locked up. You can also test this theory by driving your Nissan until it starts to drag. Pull over and lightly touch each of the tire rims. One or more of them should be hot--possibly burning hot--to the touch from all the heat that's been generated by the stuck brake caliper. A wheel with a properly working brake will probably feel warm to the touch--but not super-hot, unless you've just completed a motorcross course or something that gave your brakes a real workout.

You can buy rebuild kits for most brake calipers, but, in all honesty, it may cost almost the same and be better in the long run to buy a factory-rebuilt caliper, trading in your old one for its core. Factory rebuilt calipers are sandblasted and carefully cleaned and painted before the new parts are installed; quite frankly, I've never done any of that when I've rebuilt my own calipers.

It's possible that you might have frozen calipers even if both brakes on an axle (i.e., both front or both back wheels) are locking up. You might have gotten moisture into both of them by driving through a deep puddle, etc.--or you might not have noticed the problem until both calipers started acting up, holding back your car even more. I don't believe that your truck has any kind of special one-way pressure relief valves in the brake lines, outside of what's in your master cylinder.

Another cause for your braking problem might be your master cylinder. Ordinarily, master cylinder problems show up as loss of braking--your brake pedal goes to the floor or becomes very mushy. However, it's possible that a faulty master cylinder with some internal corrosion could be failing to release pressure after it's been applied. If you've excluded the brake calipers as a cause, this would be the next place I'd check.

A final thought is to think about the age of the brake fluid in your system. If it's older than a few years--or you can't remember the last time your system was flushed--chances are that the fluid is old and has absorbed too much water to perform at its original specifications. I don't think that water in the lines would tend to lock up your brakes, but you could try flushing out your brake system by bleeding all the lines and feeding a steady supply of fresh fluid into your master cylinder. Start with the rear brakes and bleed the front brake that's closest to the master cylinder last. This won't be a quick pump the brakes a few times and look for air bubbles kind of bleed. Instead, you'll want to pull out a half cup or more of fluid at each brake (more at the back, to compensate for all the fluid in the extended brake lines), ensuring that fresh brake fluid is being pulled into the brake lines and into the brake fluid reservoirs at the calipers and at the rear drums.

May 18, 2011 | 1989 Nissan Hardbody King

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I heard a loud clunk coming from the left front area of my 89 ford ranger. I think it is a bearing because it pulls sharply to the left when I drive it. Since this has happened my break pedal goes almost...


well lift ranger and grab wheel ,see if theres movement in wheel good be wheel bearings, or bad ball joint, pull on wheel in up and down motion if it move try to see if its bearing or balljoint if the spindle is moving thats balljoint if just the wheel then its bearing, start there good luck.

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1994 Toyota pickup front brakes don't release


Well I don't think you'll need to buy parts,it sounds like there may be sludge built up between the master cylinder and the proportional valve to the front brakes.Pull the valve off(follow the line off the master cylinder and you'll find the valve)clean it and then flush/bleed the master cylinder before you reinstall,Then flush/bleed the rest of the system.There's a relly good chance that may be all you need to do,but you may need to pull the calipers and clean them also.Comment back if you need more help,Good Luck(To)Yotaguy

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While driving down the road brakes want to stay engaged and not depress


It could be your master cylinder is pulling a vacuum on the lines. May be an indication of your mc failing or trapped or pocketed air in the lines. Not normal air in the lines, but, air that is trying to get out and as it does it pulls a vacuum. One other thing to look for is your brake calipers staying engaged to a certain degree, this could indicate failing calipers seal, fault brake line or wheel cylinder failure. Check out these things

anaanymous

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could very well be a seized caliper.

Robert

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