Question about 1993 Volkswagen Fox

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Charging system not working have replaced starter and alternator,replaced battery several times also replaced fan and heat sensors. been told that it may be the main module that controls all electrical parts

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  • jamiecoulter Jul 12, 2010

    we are just going to take it to a mechanic



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These vehicles suffer a problem with fuse box near the battery ,they use alloy fuses that have a nut either side and the supply cable connections have a habit of burning with age ,now if its not charging then the chances are its these connections ,check them out .Now as a measure to make it work run a wire direct from positive battery terminal to the
large terminal on the back of the alternator ,now start engine and run at 1500rpm ,disconnect the negative battery terminal and engine should keep running ,if it stops then its not charging then remove the regulator on the back of the alternator as its a bosch one with two screws on and check the brushes and the commutator as you havent stated weither its a reconditioned unit or a scrapyard dodgy one ,taking the neg battery terminal off with engine running will tell you as to if its charging or not .

Posted on Jul 09, 2010

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  • jamiecoulter Jul 10, 2010

    our car does not have a voltage regulator on the alternator where else could it be?we found a part in the car that is a bosch part part number 0 227 100 142. my husband has checked all of the wires and fuses.Where is the gearbox on the car at? the alternator is a reman.we have replaced the alternator 4 times in less than 2 months each time the same thing has happened,either the battery fries or the alternator is bad when we take it in to be tested.we had it tested before we put it in the car and it was good on both

  • Colin Stickland
    Colin Stickland Jul 11, 2010

    its a bosch alternator ,and on the back is two screws that hold a round thing on ,this is the regulator that has the brushes built in ,have you tried to run engine and then disconnect the battery like i said ?? the car spares shop will tell you anything to sell a unit ,its a profit for them .Some of these salesman are like the god channels on american TV that we get on satalite,promise everything and nothing works --ever??

  • Colin Stickland
    Colin Stickland Jul 13, 2010

    now did you try to run the engine then disconnect the battery like a said ?? this will tell you if its charging or not .



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My 2003 Ford F250 SDSC V10 will not start. I charged the battery and backed the truck up and it stopped running. When I insert the key to start the engine, the dials turn to the right and then back but it...

Around this year model a few problems were built into the system. Do not know if you cranked down the battery or if you started out with a dead battery. Either way, you could take out the alternator and have it tested off the truck. Charge the battery disconnected from the truck.

What would happen is this. Some trucks had a feature called a battery saver. When this feature worked, it disconnects a power drain to save the battery. However it can activate at speeds in excess of 70MPH without notice and run down the battery until you stall out. It will also activate when you try to charge a low battery. The system will see charging a dead battery as an excess drain and disconnect it.

This is to protect overheating the alternator as newer alternators are not built to charge at maximum rate for prolonged periods. New alternators are suppose to top off a low battery, or maintain working power like lights and heater fan and so on. Not to recharge a severely discharged battery and then operate lights, fans, etc.

When you disconnect the battery, any trouble codes will usually be lost.

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My 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 l won't start. When I turn the ignition, no clicks, starter won't turn over but the display panel lights illuminate randomly...some of the idiot lights just go on and off...

why do you need a stealership?
ever heard of and ASE certified shop....
its not the ECU
it s not sensor
is non of that, at all, its the STARTER SYSTEM.
its a NO CRANK
here are the tests.
17 of them.
why did it start jumped
corroded battery lugs
battery dead.? for many reasons not just battery
or what? its only a dead battery.

its this.
battery , cables, starter, wires, TRS switch and keyswitch.
only THAT. and 1 starter relay.
the ECU does not crank your engine, you do .

the iddiott lamps told you the Cluster computer was nuts
as all do lacking full power, 10v or less all go NUTS
as do all computers made with power is not at spec.
that was your clue to , voltage is not right.
charge the battery would be next.(or barrow one)
then when it started as it surely would
you see if the charge lamp is out. in cluster.?
if 'out the alternator may be ok.
what can happen is 3 things:
bad battery (or just discharged)
bad alternator system (car will stall in 1 hour or less if this fails driving) 40amp/hr, rules.

or phantom drains. (battery drains as you sleep or work an 8 hr shift)

good luck and do ask questions
top quest is , why does a starter fail to work?

(answer it not the ECU/PCM or EFI systems)

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1 Answer

Charging system not working,we have replaced the alternator,the starter the fan sensor,the heat sensor replaced the battery several times car will not stay charged been told it was the electric module that...

No such thing. If you have a new battery, and the alternator's testing fine then there's obviously something draining the battery.
You'll need a multimeter for this. First off, once started, test the battery voltage at idle. Then increase RPM to about 2000. The idle reading could be as low as 10 Volt(since you just put a massive drain on the battery but should pick up with RPM to aboout 13 Volt at least. It could even go up to 14 Volt.
If that is fine, shut down. Disconnect the neg pole on the battery. Switch your multimetre to Amps(You may have to move one of the meter wires to a current measuring connection on the meter.) Connect the leads between the neg of the battery and the cable that came off it. A reading any larger than 0.5 amps (500mA) could mean trouble. First thing I always check for is trunk and glove compartment lights. They may not be turning off with the lid closed. Next is aftermarket amplifiers. If incorrectly installed it does not shut down and drains the battery in no time at all.

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Either the voltage regulator is shot, or you have a short somewhere else that is draining the battery. How are your battery cables? Is the ground wire clean and securely attached? How is the altenator belt? Is it tight?

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Hey, 2 words.....Voltage Regulator! i had this problem and before you spend too much, check and make sure that your fan is grounded b/c most must be and then try an actual Diagnosas check normally around $80 but is does pin point whats wrong. Either Voltage regulator or you have a short.

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Slow start - need to sit for a while - then starts fine.

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Several secondary electrical systems not working -- 1998 CLK

They can check the battery and the charging system for starters. Fully charged battery,clean cables. then do a load test on the battery. If it didn't pass the test replace it and check the charging system.
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If voltage is with range then the problem is in the power distribution compartment/ relay, or either is a ground all those items share.

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