Question about 2003 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

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I have a 2003 silverado. The brake pedal pulsates when I step on the pedal. I've changed lines, bleed them off, looked at all the calipers, and inspected all the pads. Today alone I've had all 4 areas dissmantled and put back together and I still cant get the pedal from pulsing when I brake. How do I solve this problem?

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Has anyone thought about run-out on front and/or rear brake rotors need to have all rotors checked for excessive run-out and enough material left to machine out and stay above mininum thickness if not replace with a good quality part this is not an area to cut cost on the difference in quality can be seen from a cheap rotor and a good rotor they will not be as thick in areas that causes overheating faster and warpage resulting in premature replacement. hope this helps anyone can check by placing rotor on brake lathe centered and preload a dial indicator reset needle to zero and spin up rotor your run out values will be seen a reputable brake shop should be able to assist

Posted on Jul 08, 2010

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Your front brake rotor's are warp, have the brake rotor's cut if there thick enough and you'll be ok.

Posted on Jul 08, 2010

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Changed my drivers side caliper and pads now no pedal and no brake fluid to caliper.


When you change the caliper the fluid drains out. You will need to refill the master cylinder and bleed the brakes. Look up a video on bleeding brakes on youtube. Bleeding the brakes can be a pain in the ceaster. If your car has ABS and you have allowed air to enter the ABS modulator you may need to have the actuators cycled as you bleed the system. Most of the time that can only be done at the dealer or brake shop that has a computer that can do it.

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When i apply the brake on my07 chevy silverado the brake pulsation


Front brake rotors are warped, time to do a brakes job, make sure calipers float on pins and that you replace rotors, aftermarket are cheaper than G.M. but hold up just as well, change pads and lube the slides in calipers

Mar 15, 2013 | 2007 Chevrolet Silverado Classic SS New...

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Brake problem.


bleed the brakes again starting form the longest line back to the shortest
if you have been getting a pulsing feeling at the pedal under normal brakes you have warped rotors that need replacing or machining
under normal brakes the abs is not effective and it is only under sever brakes that you will experience the pulsations at the pedal

May 15, 2017 | 2005 GMC Envoy

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2003 chevy silverado 4wd -- front brake line broke repaced and bled brakes now i have no pedal pressure thanks


If there's no pedal pressure, you've still got air in the brake pipes or you've got an open fluid circuit. Look for leaks, if none they need bleeding again.

Sep 01, 2011 | 2003 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

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I have a 2004 Land cruiser and changed the right rear brake cyl and brake shoes . What is the proper procedure to bleed the rear brake system. Thank you for your help.


  1. Check the fluid level in the reservoir after bleeding each wheel. Add DOT3 fluid, if necessary.
  2. If the master cylinder was disassembled or if the reservoir becomes empty, bleed the air from the master cylinder as follows:
    1. Disconnect the brake lines from the master cylinder.
    2. Slowly depress the brake pedal and hold it.
    3. Block off the outlet plug with your finger, and release the brake pedal.
    4. Repeat 3 or 4 times.

  3. Bleed the brake starting with the one furthest from the reservoir and then the next furthest, etc.
  4. Depress the brake pedal several times, then loosen the bleeder plug with the pedal held down.
  5. At the point when fluid stops coming out, tighten the bleeder plug to 11 Nm (8 ft. lbs.), then release the brake pedal.
  6. Repeat until all the air in the fluid has been bled out.
  7. Repeat the procedure to bleed the air out of brake line for each wheel.
  8. Check the fluid level and add DOT3 fluid if necessary.

Aug 07, 2011 | 2004 Toyota Land Cruiser

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Brakes are pulsating in pedal. we've changed calipers, turned drums and rotors, replaced pads, bled brake lines. what could be causing the pulsating and egg out feeling.


Your rear drums are out of round (warped). Eventhough you turned them the problem will not go away because they have hot spots in them that turning can't remove. You need to replace them with new ones to solve this problem. Pulsing pedal is rear brakes and a shimmy in the steering wheel while braking is in the front brakes.. Good luck I hope this helps you out.

Jul 14, 2011 | 2004 Saturn VUE

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What are the proper steps to bleeding your brakes on a 1990 vw golf deisel


For left hand drive vehicles: (If the car does not have ABS system you do not need any diagnostic equipment!)

IMPORTANT NOTE: You need using diagnostic equipment connected to the data link connector of the car in order to bleed the ABS block. Follow instructions by scantool equipment for bleeding the ABS block.


1. This bleeding procedure requires two people. Remove the brake system reservoir cap, and fill up with new brake fluid until "MAX" level is reached.
2. Lift the car, or use a channel for access under vehicle.
3. Put the gearbox in "N" - Neutral position, or in "P" - Parking position for automatic transmission.
4. Start the engine and push the brake pedal firmly for 4 - 5 times to the floor, and maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor.
5. Begin with the rear right wheel. Another person remove the dust cap and loose the brake caliper bleeding screw until the brake pedal goes to the floor. At this moment maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling, and tight the brake caliper bleeding screw. Use a plastic hose: one end connected to the brake caliper bleeding screw, and another end inside a recovery bottle for used brake fluid.
6. Repeat steps no.#4 and no.#5 until no air flows through the brake caliper bleeding screw. Tight the brake caliper bleeding screw, and put the dust cap in their place.

IMPORTANT NOTE: All the time check the brake fluid level in the brake system reservoir, and fill up if necessary!

7. Push the brake pedal firmly for 4 - 5 times to the floor, and maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling.
8. Continue with the rear left wheel. Another person remove the dust cap and loose the brake caliper bleeding screw until the brake pedal goes to the floor. At this moment maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling, and tight the brake caliper bleeding screw. Use a plastic hose: one end connected to the brake caliper bleeding screw, and another end inside a recovery bottle for used brake fluid.
9. Repeat steps no.#7 and no.#8 until no air flows through the brake caliper bleeding screw. Tight the brake caliper bleeding screw, and put the dust cap in their place.

IMPORTANT NOTE: All the time check the brake fluid level in the brake system reservoir, and fill up if necessary!

10. Push the brake pedal firmly for 4 - 5 times to the floor, and maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling.
11. Continue with the front right wheel. Another person remove the dust cap and loose the brake caliper bleeding screw until the brake pedal goes to the floor. At this moment maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling, and tight the brake caliper bleeding screw. Use a plastic hose: one end connected to the brake caliper bleeding screw, and another end inside a recovery bottle for used brake fluid.
12. Repeat steps no.#10 and no.#11 until no air flows through the brake caliper bleeding screw. Tight the brake caliper bleeding screw, and put the dust cap in their place.

IMPORTANT NOTE: All the time check the brake fluid level in the brake system reservoir, and fill up if necessary!

13. Push the brake pedal firmly for 4 - 5 times to the floor, and maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling.
14. Continue with the front left wheel. Another person remove the dust cap and loose the brake caliper bleeding screw until the brake pedal goes to the floor. At this moment maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling, and tight the brake caliper bleeding screw. Use a plastic hose: one end connected to the brake caliper bleeding screw, and another end inside a recovery bottle for used brake fluid.
15. Repeat steps no.#13 and no.#14 until no air flows through the brake caliper bleeding screw. Tight the brake caliper bleeding screw, and put the dust cap in their place.
16. Now the brakes are bleeded. Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir. Fill up with new brake fluid until "MAX" level is reached. Put back the brake reservoir cap.
17. Test the car brake system. The brake pedal movement no more than 1/3 of total stroke until the floor, when brake pedal is applied. Maximum admissible is 1/2 of total stroke.

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1 Answer

2003 Silverado 1500: I replaced both front calipers, bled the lines and...


I would try to bleed them again. Something is wrong there, did you replace the pads? How about the rotors? Are they ok. The vacuum line to the power brake booster, check it. Fill up the reservoir and bleed the fronts again, keep an eye on the reservoir, make sure it doesn't go dry. Make sure the person pumping the pedal doesn't take his foot off till the nut is tightened back up. Hope this helps.

May 06, 2010 | 2003 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

2 Answers

Changed break line but still have no pressure in breaks


to do a complete job. you need to bleed all 4 wheels, starting from Right Rear. Right front. Left Rear. Left Front.

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