Air conditioner loosing 12 volt power to the clutch
My air conditioner come on for about five minutes, then shut off. sometimes it comes back on. It seems and must be an electric switch or relay failure or bad connection. The freon is full, we recovered, vacummed and recharged. We changed the A/C relay, binary switch and new fan control module. It still comes on for a few minutes then kick out the clutch. It is loosing 12volt somwhere. Any suggestions???
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The air conditioner is controlled by in cab air temperature so if the air temp is low then the ac compressor clutch will cycle as the thermostat switches it on or off. If you want it to work all the time you may have to run the heat as well so that the thermostat is fooled into thinking that the air temp is hot.. Have the system checked out by an auto electrician
Someone will need to find out if the compressor clutch is failing, or if it is loosing power due to a pressure switch or other problem. A faulty relay or switch could get hot and switch off power to the compressor.
Think about this:
Can you supply voltage to the clutch to engage it? Remove the connector and use wire to directly energize the clutch. The only thing that I'm unsure of is whether it is 12 volts.
yes very much possible the ignition switch is getting Short so its causing the issue.Check the voltage at ignition switch.The power wire to the ignition switch harness are connected to battery and will give 12 volts.If there is no voltage then its loose connection.If there is short the voltage will differ.
i have an f250 diesel. Same thing, shuts off after about 10 minutes and
comes on when it feels like it. Its not the cycling switch. I checked
the voltage at the compressor clutch and its 12v. I also, made a "new"
ground for the compressor. The black wire at the compressor is ground.
This didn't do anything, nor did checking the freon. It will also shut
off if you have run it for a while, turn the HVAC selector to off and
back on. Although it has power at the clutch (compressor) it didn't
come back on.. this is weird.. i think. I was sitting there trying to
figure it out and used my test like to "nudge" the clutch on the
compressor.. gave it a little "push start" and it came on again.. seems
it needs a new compressor? I will see what happens this weekend when i
try that. Also, the pressure and contamination switches, are open
circuits, that closed and predetermined settings, they are not tied into
the ground of the compressor, but "looped" thru the circuit.
I had exactly the same problem. When your engine is cold and off check the gap on your ac compressor with a feeler gauge, it should be between 0.3 and 0.5mm. If it is larger you need to re-shim which invloves undoing a nut on the end off the compressor and removing the clutch plate, then removing the appropriate shims (look like washers) then replace. The reason it blows warm after 10 minutes or so is because the ac compressor gets hot and the clutch gap gets too large for the electro-magnetic clutch to engage. Some people would say that you need a new compressor but all you need to do is a re-shim.
looks like fuse # 8 "heater control relay- ac clutch relay-cooling fan" fuse runs the 12 volt side " black and yellow stripe wire " pcm or ecm runs the ground side "red -blue stripe wire"- what else do you need?