Question about 1994 Ford F350 Crew Cab

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The Mechanical fuel pump failed. This pump is the type that is use in the naturaly aspirated engines as well. A new napa pump was installed and fail within a weeks time. Although the pump fit correctly I'm wondering if it is realy the right pump. The napa store did not have a pump that was spicificaly used for this turbo application. Is there an other? Thanks Doug 1994 F350 turbo diesel

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  • Ford Master
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If it failed,take it back,and get another one ,they will take care of the problem,it is most likely just a bad part,napa offers a oem pump now,the sale clerk,may not have know this,but tell him to look up the part,and click on the part number,then click on other balances,like he is going to oder it,and it will have by the group number,the number 150,if it is an actual oem part.If napa does not,then have them defect this one you have out,and try another one,napa has gone to a up grade,and they are not supposed to have these problems,I know,I am a NAPA parts man,here in Ripley ,msIf this was at all helpful,please rate,thank you,and good luck.

Posted on Jul 08, 2010

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  • Contributor
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See if you can get a high imput elec.fuel pump,I use to have a muscle car were I had to run a elc.fuel pump and it did the job.

Posted on Jul 08, 2010

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1 Answer

Why wont my car start 2000 monte carlo slx


It could either be a failed sensor such as the crankshaft or camshaft sensor, even though there are no error codes. It may even be a fuel shut-off sensor or EGR valve. get a mobile mechanic to look at it.


It could be caused by a sensor failure, yes, but the symptoms are also classic signs of :
1. A partial vacuum in the fuel tank
2. Blocked fuel filter
3. A failing fuel pump.

Partial Vacuum
Fuel tanks are vented to atmosphere. Air should be able to get into the tank. To achieve this the tank has a small tube which probably appears somewhere underneath the car in the vicinity of one of the rear wheels, or the fuel filler cap itself has a small vent hole in it.

If that vent tube becomes blocked by debris thrown up by the wheels or the vent in the filler cap becomes blocked, a partial vacuum builds up inside the tank. As the fuel level drops the vacuum 'holds it up' and restricts fuel flow to the engine.

A quick check is, when the car begins to splutter and die, is to quickly remove the fuel cap. If you hear air rushing into the tank you know that there was a partial vacuum inside.

Fuel Filter
A blocked fuel filter causes the same symptoms. However, you won't hear air rushing into the fuel tank when the filler cap is removed. There's no way of dealing with a fuel filter other than by replacing it with a new one.

A lot of fuel filter problems are caused by corrosion - that's corrosion from the tank and filler pipe itself. It blocks the fuel supply. It mainly applies to older cars but as the fuel filter is a service item it makes sense to change it every couple of years anyway.

Failing Fuel Pump

The most classic symptom of all.
In tank fuel pump -it lifts the fuel

The way to test a fuel pump is by disconnecting the fuel line that runs into the engine bay. Get somebody to turn the ignition on for you - and fuel should literally spurt out. Not trickle or dribble .. it should spurt out.

inline fuel pump pushes the fuel. Usually this type of pump is fitted underneath the vehicle or in the engine compartment

However, herein lies a problem. Fuel pumps that are nearing the end of their lifespan still work - it's those erratic moments when they stop pumping your car splutters and slows down. An erratic, failing fuel pump can still throw fuel out of a disconnected fuel line. You're no further forward.

Other than pressure testing the fuel supply a workshop can not do much else that you can not do. They certainly won't remove the fuel pump from the tank and test it. They would simply replace it. You would have to do the same if you suspected the fuel pump was failing and causing the problems.

Usually, the fuel pump is situated in the fuel tank. Access is via an inspection cover that is screwed to the top and accessible from inside the car (usually).
Some vehicles have two fuel pumps. There is the pump in the tank which lifts the fuel into the fuel line. The second fuel pump - either fitted underneath the vehicle or in the engine bay - pushes the fuel up to the injectors.
The in-tank fuel pump is accessed from within the vehicle
In such twin-fuel pump systems it is usually the in-tank lifter pump that fails, simply because it is the one that does the hard work.


Mechanical Fuel Pump
There's still a lot of mechanical fuel pumps around,admittedly on older vehicles. They're bolted onto the side of the engine block and driven by a cam - the arm on the fuel pump is spring loaded. The cam causes the arm to operate, moving a diaphragm inside the pump which shoves fuel up to the engine.

The two main faults associated with the mechanical fuel pump: the diaphragm splits and perishes due to age. It becomes incapable of pumping fuel (replacement diaphragms are still available).

That spring loaded arm wears a groove in the cam and it- the arm - no longer has the 'reach' and full range of movement. A get-you-home fix is to remove the gasket so that the arm can reach further into the block. And that's all it is - a get you home fix.

It's actually easier to fit and adapt an electric fuel pump than it is to replace the worn cam that drives the mechanical fuel pump's arm.

Feb 12, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Crank case is filling up with fuel engine wont start


On pre-electric fuel pumps .. ie. mechanical fuel pumps that were cam-driven, fuel could find its way through a faulty pump/failing gasket into the engine block and oilways ... and end up in the crankcase.

You seem to have the same problem.
You don't say what sort of vehicle you have, however, with carbs that develop a fault, fuel can find its way down past the piston rings and into the crankcase.

Whether your car has a mechanical fuel pump and carburettors, or an electric pump/injection, the fuel finding its way into the crankcase is the problem.

Sort that fuel problem out and your vehicle will start.

Dec 22, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Runs only if i squirt gas in carburator til it burns it off


That indication tells you there is now fuel getting to the carburettor check your fuel pump if it's mechanical type they do tend to fail after long service on the diaphragm they also have a gauze filter in them just remove the centre bolt to expos? if this is the old type, if it's an electric pump again these can fail after long service, al so check for fuel line blockages, or remove the carburettor and inspect the jets and blow out to make sure they are clear of any blockage.

Good Luck

Mar 03, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Mercedes 300e 1989. Pre ignition when I turn the key off and still wont start. any help


if starter turns and engine will not ignite remember it is fuel, electrical or mechanical check the fuel pump relay then fuel pumps the relays do fail after 20 years the pumps rarly fail.
Did you change the fuel filter?
if starter does not turrn start checking
Fuses
Relays
Starter
Switch
electrical gremlins are challenging but if you are systematic and have a wiring digrahm you will find the problem

Jan 07, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I am having problems with my 2001 dodge stratus diagnostic codes p0172 and p7192 keep coming up and we just put a new catalytic converter on and did a tune up can someone please help??


code P0172 - fuel system rich. possible causes 0 2 sensor failed. EVAP purge solenoid failed or improper operation.map sensor failed. engine coolant temperature faulty.engine has mechanical problem.fuel filter pressure regulator has failed.

Sep 26, 2013 | 2001 Dodge Stratus

1 Answer

Exchanged engine, ecm and bcm reprogrammed, new spark plugs and wires, new cam and crank sensors, new fuel pressure regulator, new fuel pump and filter and engine will not start.


The following are the general instructions on the start of diagnosing any electronically controlled engine or transmission problem.

The engine and the automatic transmission (transmission control is only for automatics, engine is still computer controlled no matter the transmission type) in this vehicle are computer controlled and in most cases when a fault occurs a fault code is stored in the memory of the computer control module. There are exception to this, such as the Mass Airflow Meter and fuel pressure problems. What must be done is to have all the basic testing done such as a scan of the system for fault codes as well as a check with a live data scanner tool for engine functions that are not within range of normal, a trained technician is required to know what is correct and what isn't, then based on careful diagnostics done from a factory repair manual the correct part is replaced or the wiring repaired or the computer replaced (known as the PCM or ECM,ECU), which is very rarely the problem. Other basic checks must be done as well such as mechanical problems with the engine as well as engine state of tune and mileage on the engine. The transmission can have mechanical issues as well such as no gear engagement at all or a failed pump or other pressure related problems. Also engine mechanical problems can and do cause many drive-ability related problem such as rough idle and other symptoms.

Nov 09, 2012 | 1999 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

1 Answer

My 2001 toyota tundra is backfiring through the motor. I recently had some freezing problems, and now i cant get it to start and backefires through motor.


car and it spins over but fails to start, there are three fundamental systems that must work properly and should be checked. The fuel and air management is one. Too much or too little of either one of these and the engine will not start. Second is the ignition system. Not only is a spark required to ignite the fuel, it must be delivered on time and in the right place. Last is the engine integrity. It must compress the fuel and air, contain the explosion upon ignition and convert heat energy to mechanical energy to propel the vehicle. A breakdown in any of the three will prevent the engine from starting.
  • Crank the car. Listen to the engine. An experienced driver should depend on his ears and know the sound of the engine. If as it cranks the sounds are abnormal, this is a strong indication of a mechanical failure. Each cylinder, when strong and working well, compresses the fuel and air in proper sequence. When this fails due to a timing belt or head gasket problem, everything sounds different. If the engine sounds entirely different while cranking, mechanical repairs are necessary.
  • 2 Install a fuel pressure gauge. If the engine sounds as it normally does install the gauge, turn the key on and watch the pressure indicator. It should read as high as 50 psi. Refer to the manufacturer's service manual for specifications and fuel pressure test procedures. Some have fuel pressure specs as low as 35 psi. If there is no reading, the fuel pump is in doubt. Turn the key off, and the on again, and listen for a brief, faint hum in the fuel tank. The pump is designed to run, then shut off if the vehicle does not start. If there is no fuel pressure and no hum, the fuel pump or pump circuit has malfunctioned. Make sure there is fuel in the tank.
  • 3 Test the ignition system. Remove a conveniently located spark plug wire from a spark plug and install a spark tester. This is a spark plug with an alligator-clip attached. Clip the tester to the engine. This completes the circuit so the spark can jump across the plug electrode. Make sure the clip is attached to bare metal for a good ground. Have an assistant crank the vehicle and watch for a bright spark. If there is none, the ignition system must be repaired.




  • Dec 04, 2010 | 2001 Toyota Tundra

    1 Answer

    My tiburon threw a P0175 code. What is the problem


    CODE DTC PO175 - FUEL TRIM MALFUNCTION SYSTEM TOO RICH BANK 2.**** POSSIBLE CAUSES BASE ENGINE MECHANICAL FAULT AFFECTING ONE OR MORE CYLINDERS **** EXCESS FUEL VAPORS IN CRANKCASE THE OIL NEEDS TO BE CHANGED.***** EVAP SYSTEM COMPONENT HAS FAILED OR CANISTER FUEL SATURATED.**** FUEL CONTROL SENSOR IS OUT OF CALIBRATION ECT IAT OR MAF.**** FUEL DELIVERY SUPPLYING TOO MUCH FUEL DURING CRUISE OR IDLE PERIODS FAULTY FUEL PUMP OR FAULTY PRESSURE REGULATOR .***** FUEL INJECTORS IS LEAKING OR STUCK PARTIALLY OPEN ONE OR MORE.**** HO2S IS CONTAMINATED DETERIORATED OR IT HAS FAILED.TO SAVE TIME MONEY HAVE VECHICLE SCANNED AND HAVE FUEL PRESSURE CHECKED IT SHOULD BE 43 PSI. WITH NEW FUEL FILTER.

    Sep 10, 2010 | 2003 Hyundai Tiburon

    1 Answer

    Fuel delivery problem


    Was the pressure relief valve checked?Try crimping without damaging the fuel return line ,Get somebody to try to start the vehicle while you do this, if it trys to start either the pump has failed again or the fuel is bypassing and being returned to the fuel tank.How long before replacement of pump and breakdown? Did they tell you what pressure it was supposed to be at.I have seen an ignition module give very similar symptoms.

    Oct 17, 2008 | 2002 Daewoo Lanos

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