Question about 2006 Honda Accord

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Left rear brake pad worn - think break is sticking. If i replace the pad and rotor will this fix the problem or do I need to do something else

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Make sure the parking brake adjustment isn't mis-adjusted or the cable is hanging and never replace only one side at a time. Rotor replacement may not be needed; if the rotor is scored, they can be turned to restore the surfaces but check on the disk to see if they have a minimum thickness specified. If not, ask the service shop to look it up.

Posted on Jul 07, 2010


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1999 mustang 3.8 my rear passenger break is sticking I just replaced them and when I did it the inside was compleatly worn but the outside break was practically new most of the pad was still their

The three most common reasons for brakes to stay applied is a faulty caliper, brake hose, or the caliper is not sliding on the spindle.
When the brakes are applied then released, do the pads stay against the rotor, and can you release them by opening the bleeder screw ?

Jul 07, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

When I make a left turn only, and break, it sounds like something is rubbing or grinding. If I turn left without breaking, I don't hear anything. No noises when turning right or braking while driv

If the problem is as bad as it sounds, you may be close to parking it until fixed.
Normally, if you turn left, your are "loading" the right side, and visa-versa.
Think of it this way.
Picture a car going fast around a turn. The wheel on the inside of the turn might actually lift off of the ground, it is "unloaded".
With that thought in mind, look closely at the right front wheel. Start with the brake pads and /or rotor ( what the brake pads rub on to stop the car.)
Check the rotor inside and out. A good flashlight will do.
Pull the right front wheel and see if the pads are worn out or the rotor is no longer smooth, but "torn up" on the inside or the outside.
If the pads and the rotor is fine, next look at the wheel bearings.
This will be a bigger problem, probably a shop needs to check this out.

Jan 11, 2013 | 2003 Hyundai Tiburon

1 Answer

Grinding sound when i turn or break. driverside front. noticed rotor damage, but im unsure if there is a larger underlying problem.

The most likely problem here is that your brake pads have worn down and you have metal on metal.This is DANGEROUS. It needs to be fixed right away as in do not drive the car until you do.Once you have the pads and rotor replaced then you can look for other problems, the most common being a sticky caliper. When you take do the brake pads, if only one side is worn to metal and there is a big difference in wear on the old pads, the caliper with the unworn pads is sticking and needs to be replaced. Hope this helps.

Sep 25, 2011 | 1990 Chevrolet Corsica

1 Answer

Ok when i am driving my car and when i need to apply the breaks they make a almost squealing noise but after i drive for a little the stop any help will be much appriciated

I have same problem; turns out all Honda Accords of this generation (2003-2007) do this. It has something to do with cold brakes and unseated pads, and the first time you stop from medium speed, you will hear a grinding, maybe from the back of the car (i think in my case).
My girlfriend looks at me, and we both wonder what it is, but it goes away in about 1 minute and I've realized it's only when the brakes are cold and it's not a problem. My brakes are basically ok, and there is nothing to fix...
I've done enough reading about this car on the internet, I feel pretty sure everybody's Accord does this, so I stopped worrying about it. A real problem, the sound would not go away as soon as the brakes warm up and seat the pads. After that, the breaks work fine.
If it was worn pads, the squealers will start up and not go away quickly. If it was a worse problem, the sound would grind continuously until fixed.
The two major problems with Honda Accord brakes are: 1) Brake judder at hi-speed medium braking. If you are going downhill, and just want to slow the car a little, if your rotors are getting worn, the steering wheel will give you feedback as brake judder. Hit the brakes harder, it will go away but it's scary and requires the rotors be replaced with a much higher quality rotor than came from the factory, and probably want to use ceramic pads (like Bendix CQ or CT). 2) Back brake pads wear down quickly. I read about this constantly with Accord owners, the EX back brakes are smaller rotors and pads than the front, but the electronic brake distribution system of the Accord will balance brake force between front and back, so the front pads will actually last longer than the back pads! This is very unusual but entirely normal for this car. Most cars are the opposite but that may change as we see new generations of cars with more evenly balanced braking front to rear. Be ready and watch your back brakes closely. Mine were toast at 30k...
I replaced my back pads and rotors, used cheapest new rotors I could find, and ceramic pads, and they have lasted considerably longer than the first set.
I now have 92k on my 2004 and the original front brakes are ready to be replaced. I replaced back brakes at 34k I think, and was very surprised they needed replacement at early, but the new pads have gone almost 60k, but look ready to be replaced sometime this year I think.
I have bad judder on high speed braking, but the pads are still ok in front. Rotors are **** in front and I'll replace with Centric Cryo-Stop rotors, they should last a long time as long as they get put on straight and I don't let anybody warp them with an air gun at the tire shop...
Two other more minor problems to watch for on this car: 3) Inner pads may wear faster than outer pads, because the caliper is on the inside, and forces the outside pads to contact the rotor after the inner pads are already braking. Seems like all Accords do this at least a little. The inner pads are not easily viewed without removing wheels, so it's hard to tell, but if your outer pads look like they are starting to get worn down pretty well, chances are good the inner pads are even more worn and you are ready to replace pads. 4) Pads may wear faster on one side of the car (fronts) faster than the other side. For example many people report driver side pads wear faster than passenger side. And the reasons proposed have to do with fast stopping for right hand turns or freeway loops. The car spends more time being braked in a right turn than a left over time.. But of course, on my car, it seems to be the opposite. The passenger side is wearing faster! Go figure..

Jan 12, 2010 | Honda Accord Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

I am facing a problem in fuel mileage my avalon showing is less..I filled the fuel tank full but it reads maximum 360kms & than start going down while running .I feel with full tank capacity it must...

If the fuel gauge is lowering as you drive,and the fuel is still in the tank,then I would gather that,the fuel gauge sending unit in the fuel tank is not working correctly,and needs to be replaced.Brake repair comes in replacing ,both front,and then both rear.The brake pads are purchased in sets,front set,and rear set.These sets service one axle.To inspect the brake pads,the brake pads will have a sensor,made of steel,that will move closer to the brake rotor as the brake pad has worn down.If the sensor(made of steel)touches the rotor,it will squeal.If it does this,it is time to change the brake pads.The sensor does not always work correctly,and will not squeal,or can not be heard.To look at the brake pads,to see if they are ready to be changed,there will be about a 1/8 inch of pad left,and it is time to do a brake job on that axle.Check both sides,left,and right wheels,if one side is worn more than the other,do the brake job.Removal of the brake pads is a good idea.This way,you can see if there is any cracking in the brake pad itself.This is to be done for the front,and the rear.The front brake pads will where out two,to three times compared to the rear.This would be normal.As respect to the horn sounding upon remote unlock,well,it should be operational,make sure the horn works,I hardly ever use mine,so I would think you would not either,but depending on where you live,right? So if it is not sounding upon key less remote,then The control box may have a bad circuit for that out put.Replacement of the control box might be the thing to do.To install the hardware to do this,would only take wire.Come off the actuator controlling the door lock on the drivers door,and go directly to the horn,you will get a short burst from the horn.The actuator in the door only requires one wire to unlock,and lock the door,this is all you need to sound the horn one time.The short beep beep,would require a delay relay to be installed. I hope this is what you needed as far as information,and if it was at all helpful,please let us know,thank you.

Oct 27, 2009 | 2004 Toyota Avalon

3 Answers

Screeching in right rear wheel ,sound stops when breaks applied

its the brake pad wear indicator telling you your pads are in need of replacing

Sep 09, 2009 | 2006 Kia Sedona

1 Answer

Brakes slightly engage after about 10 minutes

well from reading of your problem, i am going to say its the calipers again, witch it could very well be, but there is something else it could be, There is a rubber break hoses that come from the hard line to caliper, there like a two way street fluid runs to caliper and back thru same hose, if there is a restriction or if it got kinked at one time it won't let fluid run back to resavor hence breaks don't release all the way and rub rotors and wear out pads. now calipers will do same thing. most of the time if there used and you squees the piston back in, when they come back out, like when you step on the break they will stick and not release or at least all the way and wear pads out prematurly. so my advise to you is this, new break hoses, new calipers and i think it will fix your problem. Hope this will help. OLD.SCHOOL.

Jan 28, 2009 | 1997 Toyota Land Cruiser

2 Answers

Rear disc brakes drag after installing new pads

Just did my rear brakes this weekend, Monday had a very slight drag. Noted that when I installed new pads I had to tap them on. That shouldn't be. When brakes are released, there should be enough play to allow the pads to back off the disc. Tonight, I removed the pads and filed down the ends of the tips that go into the top and bottom channels until I could install and remove them with fingertips, that gives them enough play to grab and release. Drag disappeared; the old girl ran like she should.

Jan 18, 2009 | 2000 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

1 Answer

My right rear brake GRABS when coming to a stop. The brakes seem to work fine at higher speeds. I want to get this car in the shop but I do not want them to tell me it's a $600.00 part or something.

Hate to tell you but if one brake grabbs there is a serious problem that needs to be looked at by a tech.

No/Worn pad (steel on steel application of brake)

Rotor unevenly worn

Caliper sticking

Opposite side tire caliper leaking (Fluid on rotor/pads)

This is not something to be diagnossed online but with trained eyes. YOUR LIFE IS AT STAKE. If you are worried about price, think of it like this Mechanics are like Doctors. We urge you to get a second opinion. Shop around and find someone you like.

Aug 01, 2008 | 1988 Buick Regal

9 Answers

Frontend problem

that sounds like the pressure regulator of your brakes is broken. The pressure does not release from the left side.
Unless it is the calliper, but i think you already checked that out. Pressure regulator is the main cause for problems like this.
It regulates pressure between back and front side

Jun 27, 2008 | 2005 BMW 7 Series

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