Question about 2005 Buick LaCrosse
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: remove battery from 99 yukon
your gonna need either a 5/16 or 8mm wrench. loosen the negative battery cable (black cable) off first and move it to the side where it wont touch the battery or anything metal. then loosen and take off the positive (red) cable off and then just loosen the battery hold down bolt and the battery should left out. just like a top post battery make sure you dont touch anything metal with the wrench while loosing the bolts.
Posted on Feb 24, 2009
Other than screws for armrests, there are op-in plastic holders that must be pried out of their moorings.
A simple special pry-tool can be had for a few dollars at auto parts stores that will prevent some of the damage that normally results but the plastic parts often break when being pulled out so check if the store has a 'Help' display with specialized parts for just such an event.
You will find a precut plastic film once the panel is removed and pulling these from their sticky glue will often distort the film and make it a chore to reinstall well; use care and patience. This film is necessary to divert rainwater from motors or speakers so it must be reinstalled. If made as most, the adhesive stays sticky so the film will normally hold well enough to remount the film.
Posted on Aug 21, 2010
Testimonial: "Thank you very much"
I just changed the low beam bulb in a '05 Buick LaCrosse and found it really rather easy after researching it. I found no reason to remove the grill and the bumper cover, BUT you do have to remove the top 4 fastners that hold the grill assy to the radiator support, then you can work the headlight assy forward enough to work it out of the socket and turn it down so you can get to the bulb pockets on the back side. NO NEED to remove it all, just loosen it and gentley pry things forward enough to get the light assy out. ALSO> My supplier said his Wagner lighting book called for a 9006 bulb, but the car I worked took a H11. About 4x the money over a plain ol 9006 bulb but it might save someone picking up the wrong bulb. I hope this helps someone else out....Best of luck to you all
Posted on Feb 15, 2011
The front spark plugs should not be a problem. The rear are accessed with use of an "engine tilter". It can be purchased at many auto parts businesses, I purchased mine from NAPA. However, you may have to order one on-line as it is "an unknown item" as many of us are unaware that it even exists and I am sure that the mechanics and techs want to keep it that way. My cost in 2009 was in the $35 to $80 range for the tilter. It may sound a little scarry using it because you loosen the upper (literally right up on top where they are most easily accessed) mounts, but it is easy. I found that no electrical, air flow from filter, exhaust, etc., had to be loosened or removed. You only remove one side and install the tilter. Next you adjust the "tilter" to remove tension on the other bolt. Finally, simply screw the adjuster toward the front of car until you either have enough room to access the rear plugs or until you run out of bolt threads at which point you have as much room to do the job as any tech/mechanic. As usual, remove the old plugs (I only do one at a time which also eliminates crossing plug wires) and screw the new ones in several turns by hand to make sure that there is no cross threading. Once you are satisfied with your level of maintenance, simply adjust the "tilter" back to a point where the loose motor mount accepts the bolt to front frame, tighten it, remove the "tilter" and reinstall the second bolt. It really is that easy, but you will want to protect your paint with a proper cover as you do have to lean heavily against the fender or fenders. Oh, by the way, many mechanics skip the difficult-to-access plugs, knowing that when they, or it fails, you will be back. Enjoy, you will feel like a real pro, knowing that your job was done correctly and is complete!!!
Posted on Mar 02, 2011
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