Question about 1998 Ford Taurus
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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Bleeding The Brake System Bleeding When any part of the hydraulic system has been disconnected for repair or replacement, air enters the lines causing spongy pedal action (because air can be compressed and brake fluid cannot). To correct this condition, it is necessary to bleed the hydraulic system to ensure all air is purged.
Always begin bleeding the brake system from the furthest wheel cylinder or caliper from the master cylinder; the right rear.
NOTE: The right side of the vehicle is the passenger side. The sides of the vehicle are determined from the driver's perspective. This reference is taken from sitting in the driver's seat, facing forward.
Maintain a full reservoir during the bleeding operation. Never use brake fluid that has been drained from the hydraulic system, or from an open container, no matter how clean it is. Always use brake fluid from a new, sealed container. The front and rear reservoir will drain as the front or rear brakes are bled.
Posted on Jul 22, 2009
There is a bleeder screw at each caliper/wheel cylinder. You looosen this screw (don't remove it) and have someone depress brake pedal and hold it down. Tighten bleeder screw, release brake pedal, and repeat until you get only fluid (no air) from the bleeder.
Catch the fluid in something to kep it off the ground. Make sure you keep the master cylinder reservoir full of fluid during this process or you'll get air back in the lines.
You may have to do this several times for each wheel.
Posted on May 04, 2009
Why were the brake lines replaced?
Sounds like the mastercylinder may have run dry. You have to bench bleed the master and then DO NOT allow fluid to run low, while bleeding brakes...
if master cylinder runs low on fluid and air gets in, almost impossible to bleed with out releasing the lines and bleed master it self.
Posted on Sep 20, 2009
OK, there are little nipples or bleeder screws that when not rusty and new can be turned with a small wrench or socket.
The problem is that when they get old and rusty, they can shear off or round off the hexagonal sides and corners of the bleeder screw.
Therefore, you sometimes need some oxy acetylene torch heat pinpointed on the bleeder screw to let air and brake fluid out of each wheel's bleeder screw (through the hole in the center).
If you only add brake fluid, then air bubbles can still exist in the sensitive brake lines, causing a spongy pedal and endangering anyone who drives it.
One wants a hard pedal that pumps up in a couple of tries, not a spongy pedal that goes to the floor board, which doesn't generate much braking force.
FIrst, pump up the brakes to maximum pressure by pumping the brake pedal up and down.
Then, on the down cycle (a friend or assistant can do this), open the bleeder screw counter clockwise until fluid comes out. Don't allow any in your eyes. Then tighten the bleeder screw and ask the assistant to pump up the brakes again, and then repeat the cycle on the 4 different wheels, until it has a 'hard' pedal and not 'soft.'
I wish you luck on bleeding your brakes.
Posted on Jul 20, 2010
They don't make diagrams for brake lines. The lines are sold in bulk. You need to measure and duplicate the bends in the orignal lines and cut/flare the lines yourself. You will need a tubing cutter, flare tool and tubing bender.
Posted on Feb 27, 2010
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