Question about 2001 Ford Expedition

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Engine is running rough

I have a 4.6 v8 in my Expedition. I've changed the spark plugs after 80,000 miles. The engine is starting to run rough at 130,000 miles. It runs rough at idle and hesitates when accelerating. What could be causing the problem?

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Did you change fuel filter? also your fuel pump is starting to about air filter.

Posted on Jul 06, 2010

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I have a 1997 Expedition and I replaced every sensor and went through all of this. I even changed out the O2 Sensors. The parts guy said I had 3. The problem is that I trusted that person and realize I had 4. I had this hesitation problem and almost stalling out and had 2 codes for Bank 1, Passenger side is Bank 1. There is an Upstream O2 Sensor there that cannot be seen unless you remove the wheel and pull back the plastic fender well. There is a Ford Technical Service Bulletin saying that the A/C drain run directly onto this O2 Sensor and the sensor fails. The way to fix it is to buy a GM PVC tube and modify it to reroute the drain to the 7 o'clock position and replace the O2 has the O2 Sensors for $20.69 and the PVC Tube is $8.99 at Autozone. I did this and after 3 years of going freaking nuts it is running like a rand new truck, no hesitation, no almost stalling out, acceleration is back and reliable and towing the RV is a pleasure now. I hope all of this helps and I hope that others in my position happen upon this post so that they do not lose as much hair and I and do not waste as much money replacing parts that are not bad in the first place.
This TSB article is being republished in its entirety to update the Service Procedure.

The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) may illuminate and Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P0133, P0171 and/or P1131 may be stored in memory. Additionally, there may be one or more of the following driveability symptoms:

Rough idle
Near stall or stall at idle
Detonation on acceleration
This may be caused by cold condensate from the A/C system dripping onto the Heated Exhaust Gas Oxygen (HEGO) sensor causing thermocycling of the HEGO sensor .

Divert water from dripping onto the sensor by installing a fabricated drain tube to the end of the A/C drain. This should reroute the water and reduce the possibility of the above conditions occurring. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.

Fabricate a drain tube from PCV Vent Tube (F85Z-6758-BA). To create the drain tube extension, remove the rubber cylinder from the plastic tube and discard. Cut the plastic tube (Figure 1).

Remove the transmission fluid level indicator.
Remove the right front wheel.
Remove the right front fender well splash guard.
Clean the area around the transmission filler[img src="" class="h_mi">duct[img src="" class="h_mi">
Replace the right front HEGO Sensor (F88Z-9F472-AB) and leave the connector disconnected.
Modify the PCV vent tube (Figure 1) to make a drain for the A/C condensate drain.
Using needle nose pliers[img src="" class="h_mi">
Refer to Figure 1 and fabricate a tool using a 61x2.5 cm (24x1") I.D. pipe as shown.
Lubricate the elbow with water.

Using the tool, install the modified drain tube at the 7:00 position toward the frame (Figure 2).
Clean the transmission filler tube.

Lightly lubricate the transmission filler tube O-ring withpetroleum[img src="" class="h_mi">
Torque the bolt to 11-14 N-m (8-10 lb-ft).

Connect the right front HEGO sensor connector.
Start the vehicle and verify water flow direction. Make sure no condensation drips onto the exhaust manifold bolt.
Reinstall the right front splash guard.
Reinstall the right front wheel.
Clean and reinstall the transmission fluid level indicator.
NOTE: DEALERS[img src="" class="h_mi">

F85Z-6758-BA PCV Vent Tube
F88Z-9F472-AB Heated Exhaust Gas Oxygen (HEGO) Sensor

Posted on May 07, 2013


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SOURCE: 2009 toyota corolla hesitates when accelerating.

This car is a 2009! Bring it back to the dealer its still under warranty.

Posted on Apr 06, 2010

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