1197 accord vtek 2.2

The Honda F23 series engine is a 2.3 liter, all aluminum block, 16 valve, Single Overhead Camshaft (SOHC) motor used in the Honda Accord (1994 - 2002) and Acura Cl (2.3). Timing belt failure may result in either the intake or exhaust valves bending after contacting the pistons. If the belt has broken, a Compression Leakage test is advised to determine if the valves require replacement. Compression leakage from any of the cylinders (indicating bent valves) will require the removal of the cylinder head. An inspection and rebuild of the head by a reputable automotive machine shop is recommended in lieu of doing it yourself. This DIY article only covers belt replacement. The belt replacement interval is either 90,000 or 105,000 miles based on the specific model year. Check the owner's manual for the specific service interval. If the mileage is below the threshold but the vehicle is over 7 years old, consider performing a replacement as preventative maintenance (PM). Timing belts cannot be visually inspected for wear. Moreover, a visual inspection would require the removal of the timing belt cover which in itself is time consuming and better spent working on replacement. A typical timing belt component kit consists of: 1. Timing Belt 2. Balance Shaft Belt. 3. Timing Belt Tensioner Pulley. 4. Balance Shaft Tensioner Pulley

It's not the filter. But replace it anyway. I would look more toward the ignition. Crank sensor, coils, and lose of power to them. Have the codes read.

COULD BE WORN VALVE GUIDES, WORN VALVES, YOUR HEADS NEED WORK DONE OR JUST REPLACE THEM, @ TODAYS LABOR COST IT MIGHT BE PRUDENT TO JUST REPLACE THEM OR, SELL THE TRUCK,TRADE IT IN , YOUR DECISION !!!

when the timing belt broke your pistions started hitin your valves pull off the head and replace the bent valves

Timing belt not timed right or bent valves.

1- disconnect battery
2- remove valve cover
3- remove timing cover
4- set engine on top dead center #1cylinder
5- remove timing belt ( mark direction if re-using belt)
6- remove camshaft & rocker arms
7- remove spark plugs
8- install compression tester hose in cylinder that you want to replace seals and apply 90 to 120psi of air
9- install valve spring compression too and compress valve spring
10- remove valve spring locks and valve spring
11- remove old valve seal and replace with new
12- reverce order to reasable

Did the timing belt break? Or did it over heat? ethere way you will need to do a valve job on the cylinder head, but before you do that, do a wet cylinder compression test, shoot some oil in the cylinder's then do a compression test, if compression goes way up, then you have bad piston rings and the engine will have to be overhaul or replace.

It could be a oil control ring on piston or oil control valve on head or valve guides to worn or improper valve seal replacement or head gasket cracked head etc

jack up on stands, remove LF wheel and water shield. disconnect battery, buy a crankshaft pulley holding tool from OTC, swing p.s. reservoir out of the way, remove both accesory belts, front motor mount, valve cover, dipstick and tube, crank pulley, timing belt cover, set engine at TDC #1 (align marks), remove nut on tensioner shaft to loosen both belts, remove the belts and tensioners (replace all), replace water pump NOW, install timing pulley, reinstall spring (use dipstick tube bolt to hold back the timing pulley with the slot in the bracket on the pulley until the belt is installed), install balance shaft belt, pulley and spring, once tensioned rotate engine once and retension by loosening the nut and retightening. Make sure the marks are still lined up, and reinstall everything. New valve cover gasket set with silicone in the corners. fill with coolant and bleed system once finished. it is a good idea to also change all the oil seals while you are in there.

Sounds like you have fire in the plugs with the sputtering you mention...

You could a compression test to see if you have a burned intake valve, but this is less likely than a timing problem in my opinion as intake valves run cooler and are less likely to burn than an exhaust valve.

If the timeing belt has slipped then you test the timing with a timing light and it will id the problem with the belt.

If the timing belt has not been changed in accordance with the maintenance schedule, then the belt may have jumped a notch and gotten the valve train out of sync with the pistons... to test this, without a timing light, take out all the plugs and charge you battery before you test for a spark sync with the compression stroke. You must distinguish the compression stroke sound from the exhaust stroke sound. Now when the compression stroke ie piston tops for plug firing on this stroke, it will compression stroke will be the loudest.... now on the compression stroke for the #1 cylinder, the plug should spark when you hear the loudest swishing sound, ie, when the piston is near the top dead center look for the spark to occur when the plug is on the wire and grounded to the block or frame... If it sparks slightly before tdc that is OK, but if its firing differently than on the compression stroke peak, then most likely you will have to get a new timing belt and retime the camshaft at the same time.

Also, if you could place somthing over the #1 plug hole while you look for the spark, that would also be a good indicator of when it should spark because the comprssion will blow the obstruction off the plug hole. I don't think you can put your finger or thumb over it but if you had a broomstick, it may work equally well.

Once you isolat a possible timing problem, you must of course face that procedure or take it a shop.
good luck