After i have driving my 1990 wrangler abit and the
After i have driving my 1990
wrangler abit and the engine
heats up..it will stall every time when i push in the clutch..any ideas as to whats going on ?? thank you!!
Re: After i have driving my 1990 wrangler abit and the
Most likely you have a seized release bearing. Gearbox has to be removed to get at it. It is usually accompanied by quite a bit of noise It could also be a short circuit. Have someone operate the clutch while you inspect all the moving parts for rubbing against any kind of electrical wire.
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which engine,? the have up to 3 choices.
rih?
what are the full symptoms,
did you do the full listed 60k mile tune up on car?
sparkplugs,wire, cap rotor/filters? no engine runs right with bad spark
unless it's a diesel.
starts good
runs good or bad hot or cold engine
idle at 800 RPM hot?
stalls> when hot and cold engine
lost of power
bogging
misfire,
learchs>
only stalls , but runs perfect even up hills, at wide open throttle.
fresh gas, or 1 year old?fuel.
can your fast right foot , save the stall, and easily?
ok stalls 101.
1; lost 12vdc to EFI system.
2: lost engine compression.
3: lost spark.
4: lost fueling or floods
there is a simple test for each.
do you want more guesses, or how to do tests.
can do both, but my guessing fails 99 /100 times.
tune it up
do the right foot test. those are always first. on stalls.
always.
1990 2.5L 4 banger. (just sold mine a 2002) I have 3.8L now. 2008
what transmission mine was 5speed manual stick , is yours?
ever do the 60,000 mile tune up, all service points under that column?
tune ups do work and have pay back in fuel savings. " if in gas so much" i cant noodle that.....????
stall when , when you lift throttle and push in clutch.
when it stalls is everything !!
and when, coming to a stop light??????
and last and very important, can a fast right foot save the stall..?
i only have questions, and need all answers above, to proceed.
we can fix it. but i cant drive it and see all this.
MAKE VECHICLE NOT OVER HEATING CHECK COOLING LEVEL.IF ALL IS GOOD CHECK FOR SPARK AND FUEL.DO CODE SCAN FIRST,COULD HAVE FAULTY ASD RELAY,FAULTY FUEL PUMP OR RELAY,BAD ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR, FAULTY EGR VALVE, CODE SCAN MANY THINGS WILL CAUSE ENGINE SHUT OFF.
i would recommend you connect a fuel pressure gauge to the engine fuel rail port and watch the fuel pressure as you drive it note fuel pressure should be between 31 and 39 psi and stay there while vehicle is being driven. if it drops check the wiring to the pump in many cases the pump connector is burned and losses connnection. also try watching the egr see if its diaphragm keeps surging try disconnecting the vacuum hose to it see it any change is noticed, common problem 4.0 engines of that year EGR's cost about 90 dollars but help stalling and emissions problems greatly.
if you just filled up i might be dirty fuel go get some fuel injector cleaner stp is good, lucas is better dump in your tank and cross your fingers you might have to start up a couple times.
Per your description, I would suspect a fuel pump issue. When the fuel pump is running the pump impeller heats up. On an older pump the impeller can begin to seize up and momentarily stops and starts. Some times it just stops and has to cool down for a couple of minutes, then is ok for a while.
To test this theory, when the engine stalls and stops, your mechanic can use a rubber mallet and hit the bottom of the gas tank, this will free the pump impeller and the car will start again.
Or, have him install a fuel pressure gauge and go for a drive. If the pressure begins to fluctuate and drop, you know the pump is causing the issue.
Good luck, let me know.
Regards,
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