Question about 2002 Lexus RX 300
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Here's what the codes mean:
P1135 Air/Fuel Sensor Heater Circuit Response (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P1155 Air/Fuel Sensor Heater Circuit. (Bank 1 Sensor 2
This is mainly related to the oxygen sensors. It maybe the sensors themselves or an open wire going to te sensors. They are mainly located on the exhaust pipe. One before and on after the catalytic converter.
Posted on Apr 15, 2009
P1155: Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1) The sensor is on the Bank 1 throttle body with electrical connection. Its a delicate sensor. Unscrew it from the throttle body and check if its dirty, spray it with electronic cleaner with care. If its damaged, just replace it. If its not rectified, the car computer may default the air temperature to 20 degC and the air flow will not be correct and may have the following effect: 1. You might have difficulty in winter startups 2. Loss fuel efficiency (air/fuel ratio is messed up)/NOx problems/failed emission test/prematured catalytic converter replacement etc. CLARIFICATION An Air Fuel Ratio Sensor is also known as Wide Range Oxygen Sensor. Bank 1 Sensor 1 is mounted in the exhaust header before the Catalytic Converter (CC). The ECU uses the signal from the AF sensor to adjust Air/Fuel ratio. On V6 and V8 engines there is a second AF Sensor in the other header. (Bank 2 Sensor 1). After the CC there is a narrow range O2 sensor called Bank 1 Sensor 2. It monitors the CC. If there are two CCs there is a second O2 sensor (Bank 2 Sensor 2) The AF Sensor draws about 3 amps so check connections. The heater is a resistor between the B+ and HT terminals of the plug. On V engines there is also a AF relay to check.
Posted on Feb 05, 2010
SOURCE: HI I have toyota avensis verso
Air/Fuel Sensor Heater Circuit. (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
The A/F sensors are positioned high in the manifold before the cat and are used to make adjustments to the air/fuel ratio of the fuel injection system. The heated oxygen sensors are positioned after the cat and check the efficiency of the cat (what happened in there as a result of the A/F sensors above). They too can signal changes to the air/fuel ratio. These latter sensors only work when they are hot and need to be electrically heated quickly to give decent information quickly. They work by comparing the oxygen inside the exhaust with the oxygen on the outside.
You could say that the ones before the cat make large adjustments and the ones after make smaller refinements.
It is worth remembering that a fault code could have been stored because at some stage the sensor went outside of its range and for this reason it is always worth cancelling any stored codes as this sometimes puts the light out. There are also several other reasons why a sensor could be showing a fault (it is correctly saying that something else is causing incorrect air/fuel ratio) such as leaky EGR valves or vacuum pipes so just have a look around to see if there is anything obvious.
The DTC code will normally indicate the exact sensor that is faulty or at least showing out of range and not the group of sensors. In this case as you stand looking at the engine from in front of the car it is the top one on the drivers side.
Keep in mind they are sensitive devices (read that as fickle) and although you should start there you can often end up changing more than one and some cases even the cat before you can get them to settle down.
Posted on Mar 07, 2011
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