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If the coil pack has a four wire connector, one wire is primary voltage, the other three wires are ground, one ground for each coil, one coil fires two spark plugs. If problem with coil or ground, you would lose spark for two spark plugs. Did you visually check for spark, everywhere? What about the spark plug wire or the spark plug, itself?
the PCM grounds the coil to produce spark. You can use a scan tool (not a code reader) to energize the individual coils while monitoring the circuit with a volt meter or a test light. If the PCM is supplying ground to the 2/5 and 1/4 coil but not the 3/6 coil than you know you either have a wiring issue between the pcm and the coiul pack or the pcm is bad.
HI if a compression test on cyl 3 is fine ,the next step check coil pack if independent coil swop with a functioning cyl (eg 2 ) ,If this repairs the problem coil should be changed.Do check wires connecting to coil for continuity on power and ground supply.In some rare cases the above answers are over powered by a faulty ignition module .
put a spark plug in each socket you want to test and run a ground wire from the spark plug to the engine ground. then try starting the car to see it they spark. when I tested my 4 cylinder coil pack they were all together. I had 4 plugs sticking out and used an old stripped wire and wrapped around each base of the spark plug in series and then tied it to a ground point. worked great
One issue is the possible loss of ground to base of box. If engine ground strap has lost contact, or unit itself no longer gets ground via connection to bracket then unit is trying to get all the ground via the small wires and internal connections that were not intended to do this. Box may be getting too much / too little voltage also. Put voltmeter on battery when vehicle running and see what it reads. Alternator / regulator should be putting out around 14V or so. You get much higher than that it can hurt things. But you may just have poor ground - or is box possibly bad???
The coil pack rests on the back of the engine, under the intake manifold. Make sure the engine is cool. Follow the plug wires to their ends and you'll see the coil pack. Mark the wires with tape and number them 1-4 so you know the order the plug wires are in. You'll need to remove the entire ignition pack to replace the coils. Three 10 mm bolts hold it in place. Remove the marked plug wires from the pack, unplug the two wire connectors. I worked the pack out from underneath the care. There is a crank sensor on the back of the unit - be careful not to break it as you remove the unit. Take the pack to a table and remove the 4 small nuts that hold the coils in place. Clean all the connectors and apply some dielectric grease to all the electrical connectors. Add some grease to the o ring on the crank sensor and clean all the other parts. The 4 bolts that hold the coils on can only be replaced by pulling the entire unit.
Install the new coil spade connectors into the base, being careful to align them properly. Snug down the 4 small nuts that hold the coils on while holding the bolts that secure them with your fingers until the get tight - be careful that the bolds fit into the recesses that hold them squarely.
Replace the unit in the car as you removed it with the three 10 mm bolts. Be sure to follow the numbers on your plug wires as you replace them. Reconnect the two wire connectors after cleaning the contacts. Replace the ground to the upper right bolt of the pack.
Now would be a good time to replace the plugs and plug wires as well! Took me about 2.5 hours.
1. Get an INSULATED wire and hook it to a ground on the car. 2. Get some one to help you 3. pull a spark plug wire off the coil 4. hold grounded wire close to, but not touching, the part where the spark plug wire connects 5. keep hands away from coil and have your helper turn the engine over ( start car and turn off) 6. if there was a spark between the wire and the coil pack it is good. if not, the coil pack needs replaced 7. replace the spark plug wire 8. test the rest
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