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How to change front brake pads on 2003 Chevy Suburban

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  • Chevrolet Master
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Disc Brake Pads for Suburban 1500 Removal & Installation Front To Remove:
Front caliper mounting bracket how to change front brake pads on 2003 Chevy - 93086g95.gif

  1. Remove the cover on the master cylinder and siphon out 2/3 of the fluid. This step prevents spilling fluid when the piston is pushed back into the caliper bore.
  2. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
  3. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
  4. Compress the brake piston back into its bore using a C-clamp.
  5. Remove the 2 caliper mounting bolts. Lift the caliper off the rotor.
  6. Remove the inboard and outboard pad.
  7. Remove and discard the anti-rattle clips.
To Install:
Caliper bracket sleeves 93086g97.gif

  1. Thoroughly inspect, clean and lubricate all caliper slide points, bolts and hardware.
  2. Install new anti-rattle clips.
  3. Position the inboard and outboard pads into the support bracket
  4. With the 2 pads in position, place the caliper over the brake rotor and align the holes in the caliper with those of the mounting bracket.
  5. Install the caliper mounting bolts through the sleeves in the inboard caliper ears and into the mounting bracket.
  6. Tighten the mounting bolts to: 80 lb. ft, (110 Nm).
  7. Install the tire and wheel assembly. Lower the vehicle.
  8. Add fluid to the master cylinder reservoirs so they are 1/4 in. (6.35mm) from the top.
  9. Test the brake pedal by pumping it to obtain a hard pedal. Check the fluid level and add fluid as necessary.
Rear To Remove:
  1. Remove 2/3 of the brake fluid from the master cylinder.
  2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  3. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
  4. Remove the brake caliper mounting bolts. Suspend the caliper from the frame with mechanic's wire. Do not allow the caliper to hang from the brake hose.
  5. Remove the brake pads from the caliper mounting bracket.
  6. Remove and discard the anti-rattle clips.
Rear brake caliper 93086g96.gif

To Install:
  1. Install new anti-rattle clips.
  2. Position the brake pads to the caliper mounting bracket.
  3. With the 2 pads in position, place the caliper over the brake rotor and align the holes in the caliper with those of the mounting bracket.
  4. Install NEW caliper mounting bolts. Tighten to: 30 lb. ft, (40 Nm).
  5. Install the wheel and tire assembly.
  6. Lower the vehicle.
  7. Refill the master cylinder to the proper level with fresh brake fluid. Pump the brake pedal slowly and firmly to seat the brake pads. Burnish the brakes as needed.
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Posted on Jul 05, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: front brake pads

Just did this tonight... 7/21/08

You need a torx head T-55 Star Socket to remove the caliper bolt(s) and a large 3/4 in preferably with a 1/2 dr and large breaker bar or torque wrench with a 1/2 in dr. to remove the knuckle bolts. I should've taken pictures, but I did not. After studying this exact issue for an hour or so, I finally got everything to click. Steps as I proceeded. Loosen the top caliper nut using the T-55 torx bit, this will take some doing, if possible, use a breaker bar or something comparable, I used a standard 3/8 in. socket wrench and about a foot long hollow metal tube on the end as the breaker and after some muscle work (ouch!!) got it loose. Now there are 2 bolts that hold the caliper in place that need to come out. I used a 3/4 in socket on a 1/2 breaker bar to get these to break. I don't have the exact torque specs to put these back on, but I went about 40lbs on the knuckle bolts and closer to 80lbs on the caliper torx head screw. Once you have the caliper torx head bolt loose and the other 2 nuts off, you can rotate the caliper. Using a C-Clamp, compress the caliper so that it is completely compressed. Now, remove the torx head bolt and the pad assembly will swing out, at this point, you can remove the old pads and clips if you are replacing them as well. Reverse the order for installation using Lock-tite and the caliper grease you get from the parts store. I hope I don't have to mention removing the tires, using jack stands and being completely safe under there. Good Luck. The first side took me about 3 hours considering time and studying, the second side took about half an hour after already knowing what to do.. It gets easier each time you do it.

So far, I have replaced 2 fuel pumps (at home) first one took about 7 hours, second time around, only took about 2 hours. Front and Rear brake jobs. numerous small items, now I'm looking at a blinker switch (problem with left turn signal... rapid click, no light).. Also, the dash panel either needs repaired or replaced as the fuel gage is constantly up and down. If you or someone else has a suggestion here, I would appreciate it.

Thanks and remember... Practice Safe "Do it yourself"..!

Posted on Jul 22, 2008

  • 2309 Answers

SOURCE: i need to change the

go to popular mechanics automotive diy section

Posted on Aug 07, 2010

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